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With the 19.5" wheels the tires are commercial, same as you see on gas powred motorhomes. These tiers prety much don't get flats, I had two nails in one of my tires last week, all the way through, and not even a peep of a leak, also I like the side walls being so stiff with the camper always being on the truck. These tires help with side to side movement with the camper on top that helps. I may add a rear sway bar. I live on a very steep and windy road. Stunt I think you know that road. I think I can get in and out of Hooper for about $1500 to regeare the front and back bumping up to a 3.73. It's a bit more to go to 4.10 becuase the carrier would need to be changed. That will cost me less than a complete set of wheels and tires x7 of them all together. I do realize that the mass of my wheels is greater than stock and that increases my loand and will diminish my speed, gas mileage etc. I'm not worried about speed so that's not a factor for me. But the commercial tires give me a marked advantage for the application.

This may sound really dumb and overly simplified but when I first got my truck it was having all sorts of vodo adgeacent, seemingly undiagnosable issues. It was like someone had put a spell on my truck. The remedy? Replace all four of the battery cable ends with military connectors. I used marine heat shrink over the solered eylets to keep things from getting corroded again. I also replaced the ground wire run that goes between the batteries. It was full of corrosion. After I did that the throwing of random nonsensical codes and seemingly undiagnosable voodoo issues magically vanished. Just sayin'

For sure. I'm reasonably certain they were not but I have to be 100% sure and that's a great point thank you for bringing that to my attention.

Doh! Thank you and corrected. Sorry made a typo earlier in the calculator at 19.9 wheel size (non existant) so it actually landed at effective ratio of 3.41. So it seems like the 3.73 gears put just a bit higher than than would have been the 3.55 ratio right? According to my build sheet the my truck started it's life with 235/85-R16 so I think I should be okay with the 3.73 solution. https://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=1B7MF33791J565630

Stock tire size was 235/85-R16 Current tire size is 203 245/70-R19.5 So I have a lift of about .85" https://tiresize.com/comparison/ Upon running the calculation I now have a paultry effective final drive ratio of 3.37, so far so bad. https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

Thanks that was kind of what I was thinking would make the most sense.

So the truck came with a set of Rickson wheels 19.5" and a set of tires that were less than a year old. I liked the old forged-in-America wheels so I decided ot keep them on the truck. I have never had one of these trucks befoer this one so I have no comparative baseline on how it "should" run and drive. In LA these trucks are like hen's teeth and I have not found anyone near me that knows much abou them at all. My local dodge dealer is a waste of real estate and every time I've gone there they turn up their nose at my old truck and try to sell me a new truck :-) I couldn't even get a radiotor cap from that palce. After studdying this issue of tire size, on this website, more closely I decided to take a closer look at my set up as believe there is a fly in the ointment. Now for the more-fun-with-math part. So according to Mopar1973Man the goal is to have a Final Drive Ratio that is between 3.55 & 3.73 My truck started its life with a final drive ration of 3.55 (Dana 80 in the rear and Data 60 in the front) Stock tire size was 235/85-R16 Current tire size is 203 245/70-R19.5 So I have a lift of about .85" https://tiresize.com/comparison/ Upon running the calculation I now have a paultry effective final drive ratio of 3.41, so far so bad. https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/ Now the question is to should I lower the water or raise the bridge? I could keep the wheels and change the gearing in the Axels or I can get a set of wheels and tires. Either solution will cost about the same in the greater LA Area. So let's say I decided to go the regearing route. I believe Dana offers 3.73 and 4.1 gearing. The question is this, if I went the re-gearing route which would be preferable (either 3.73 or 4.1) and why? Also I have the NV5600 at (0.73:1) and I'm not exactly sure how to add that into my math here or that's even relevant. Thanks @Mopar1973Man for this article this is super helpful in trying to sort this all out.

Fantastic!!!!! Thank you! This is my cunundrum.

That’s an article that could draw a lot of traffic to the site. Super big issue. There are some cool online calculators that could be included into that so people could do their own math. I am planning to make a run to Hooper Rear ends, I’m sure you know the place, and take their class on this topic just for fun. https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/07/30/tire-math-calculating-the-effects-of-tire-diameter-on-final-drive-ratio/ This is a descent write up but I think it’s light on info this is a fun calculator https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

This topic warrants an article. I’ve been following your posts and this topic is on my short list to deal with on my truck for sure. I keep gathering more info from your comments and this is a serious bit of business right here.

This was the very fist thing I fixed on my truck. A must do project. This write up made it super easy.

This article made it possible fir me to do this job by myself without any worries that I would not be able to pull it off in my own. Excellent write up!! More fun at the university of mopar1973man.com

Great write up thank you for this.

Another great lesson from professor @Me78569 for the University of Mopar1973Man.com. I would be interested in knowing why you did this, what is the advantage/gain to this upgrade. Thanks for all your valuable contributions!!!

This is a beautifully execute installation. This is art adjacent. Great write up!

Another great write up from professor Nick at the University of Mopar1973Man. This is another item on my drill down deeper into how this machine works research list. Great stuff right here.

This is on my to do list. When I'm ready to pull the trigger this is going to be my go to place to learn up and get some friendly help along the way. Awesome article!!!!

Very cool to have this solution documented and readily available. Thanks for the excellent article!

Seriously where else are you going to find the depth and breadth of information available on this website. There's no place else that even comes close.

My ABS light has just started randomly and occasionally flashing. I'll have to keep an eye on it. I'm interested in knowing what you learn here. Keep us posted please.

This is a great write up. I found this article when I first got my truck. The one thing that jumped off the page for me was that my battery terminals were in terrible shape. The stock connectors were not saveable. I replaced them all as well as the connecting wire between the batteries with military connector (which was full of corrosion) and soldered eyes. I was having some odd ball problems that all magically went away when I got my battery connections all sorted.

Fun story with a great outcome for all of us who want to keep this old trucks in solid working order and then some. It's a fun community as well. People are super nice and provide more help than my AAA membership, which costs me $150 for the RV coverage policy. It's good to know that if I through a code in the middle of nowhere I can reach out to this forum and figure out if I can at least limp home in the state it's in. Then when get home everyone pitches into help me with the troubleshooting. That happened just last month when my APPS gave out in a Costco in Pico Rivera. Came figured out what was wrong, with the help of this site, ordered a Timbo APPS of the site, grabbed in install article and had it fixed in no time flat. Easy peasy.

I have this in my truck, yes I have to put the stock one back in to pass smog ;-) A girl's gota do what a girl's gota do. Well worth it. Glad to have some comparative data. This is the most credible site I've seen for info on my truck. Thanks to all those who contribute these articles.

Good to hear. I tried the Pennzoil Synchromesh first but shifting into third was a bit funky. I took that out and tried Amsoil Synchromesh + 1 quart, now it's all good, so I'll stick with the Amsoil for the rest of the life of the truck. Got it at just under 100k miles so hopefully it'll last a good long time.

It's a prototype pod that I used to redevelop parts for this cool stuff. http://curvedspacediamondstructure.com/ That was a website I built. I also did all the cad work for the animations and images. We wrote a book on it as well. https://www.amazon.com/Curved-Space-Diamond-Structure-Geometry/dp/1517405378/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=curved+space+diamond+structure&qid=1601997140&sr=8-1 This is the installation manual. I did all the cad work on the parts and the rendering for this manual. The parts are kinda cool. The panels are injection molded, the edge splices are extruded and all of the stainless parts are investment cast. http://aleta.com/writing/CURVED SPACE INSTALLATION VOL.1.pdf