LiveOak

Almost sounds like the water separating fuel filter on the AD had water in it and froze, blocking the fuel system. In the future, it is a VERY wise practice to drain a small amount of fuel from the water separating fuel filter on the AD and ensure fuel NOT water comes out. If water does come out, continue draining until fuel comes out. I periodically do this to mine during fillups to make sure any water is drained from the filter.

Have you checked for codes using the ignition switch 3 click method? If you have not fuel pressure gauge, I strongly recommend obtaining a manual fuel pressure test gauge and observe the actual fuel pressure the VP-44 is seeing at the schrader valve test port. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Tester-with-Schrader-Connection-p/fpt.htm

IF in fact you have run the truck out of fuel, you will have to prime the fuel system. Rather than go over the entire procedure, read up on this: http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/reprime-fuel/reprime-fuel.htm With respect to purging the fuel filter canister, I loosen the plastic threaded top just enough to allow air and fuel to pass by the threads but leave the cap threaded on enough to remain in place. Be sure to place lots of rags under the fuel cannister so you don't spill fuel on the starter. Now bump the starter but do NOT start the engine (not gonna start anyway with no fuel) and the fuel lift pump should cycle for about 20 seconds. Watch for the fuel to start running out from around the fuel cannister plastic cap. When the fuel starts running over, turn the ignition key off. The rest of the purging procedure is covered above in the link. If you seen no fuel running over but hear the pump running, make sure the cap is unthreaded enough to allow the fuel to pass by and if there is still no fuel, your lift pump is dead and needs to be replaced. If the fuel filter element is of unknown condition, this is a good time to replace the filter element with a fresh new filter element. Once you have purged the fuel lines up to the fuel injector couplings on the cylinder head, snug everything up and attempt a start. Look for smoke from the exhaust while attempting the start. You may have to crank for an extended period of time and when she starts, she may not be happy about it by sputtering and missing until all of the air is push past the injectiors so keep the rpms up around 1500 - 2000 until the engine smooths out and runs good. If the engine still does not start, you may have other problems that can be addressed once you have eliminated fuel as an issue.

I am not for certain on this so it would be best for you to call Eric at Vulcan Performance and verify this kit will work. If not, I am confident that Eric can help you find what you need. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Airtex-Pump-Adapter-Kit-p/apa.htm http://www.vulcanperformance.com/product-p/atad.htm

I just checked Fritz's website and it is back up and working again.

Welcome to the forum!

Another option you can try is a Fleetguard Venturi type oil filter LF9028 or Baldwin 7313. These filters are a full flow lube filter and bypass filter all in one. A friend and I are still working on fitting a Fleetguard CH41102 Centriguard Centrifugal bypass oil filter to our trucks. I think this is the best possible option.

The quick disconnect appears to be a Dorman fitting. This is what comes on the truck in OEM stock trim. The previous owner of your truck may have cut the other OEM fitting off. Perhaps you may be able to make one of these fittings work and fabricate the piece you need? http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/247.htm

I would suggest changing the fuel filter and then observe if your fuel pressure notably improves. If not, you should replace the lift pump. The pump you have currently is below acceptable minimums especially with a new filter. If you are going to stick with an OEM style pump, get the Airtex 7153 lift pump. It is a direct drop in replacement and will perform MUCH better than the Carter pumps as well as last MUCH longer. The best solution is to install an Air Dog or FASS but if you are staying stock the Airtex will work just fine as long as you carefully monitor the fuel pressure. I installed an Airtex on the wife's truck and it has worked well. Anytime the fuel pressure drops below 12 psi with normal operation or starts to get close, I replace the fuel filter and the pressure comes right back up to around 18-19 psi at idle. Typical driving working pressures run between 18 down 12 psi on a hard pull with a new filter. I use the Baldwin PF7977 fuel filters which are 5 micron and stop up faster but do a good job on clean fuel to the VP44.

Welcome to the forum and definitely a nice truck!

Welcome to the forum Bowtech!

For this body style truck, that trick works only on 2000 thru 2002. Even then some have issues occasionally. --- Update to the previous post... When you cracked the #1,3, and 4 injector lines, did you turn over the engine until you got a good fuel spray at each injector coupling? Seems odd that it would not start or at least attempt to unless perhaps the injectors are gummed up and not working at all which I think would be very improbably for all 6 to do this.

Welcome aboard!

EXCELLENT for grouchy old farts my myself.

I agree! ARP were about the only guys I knew of out there. My point being that a stud with a quality threaded fastener would be the best design and type of clamping system. Thanks for the info.

No problem. You should see me when I am having a bad day working on my truck other equipment. I deplete the English language of cuss words and even invent a few new ones. Not doing real well on my New Year's Resolution.

Keep a spare cord and you will always have a known good unit to fall back on. Only takes a few minutes to test swap in a new cord and listen for the sizzle or crackling when you plug it in. Sometimes the connection between the cord prongs and the block heat prongs gets corroded or dirty and then gets very hot and in some cases can melt. This usually results in an inop. block heater.

If you still show a similar resistance on the prongs of the block heater element, that indicates that that element is good. I strongly suspect a bad cord. Just so I am follow your steps. You are allowing the block heater to be plugged in for at least 3 hours right? It takes a LONG time to warm up that much steel and iron. Some block heaters make the sizzling sound and some don't. After the block heater has been plugged in for about 3 hours, place you hand on the water neck on top of the engine. It should feel noticably warm to the touch and warmer than the rest of the engine.

I am not familiar with these bolts. They may well do what is claimed. My personal preference would be for the ARP head studs as they deliver a much more reliable, stronger, and consistent head and gasket clamping force in my opinion. That is not an area where I would want to cut corners or take a chance.

There is a great article on this topic in the latest Diesel Power Magazine. The article has not been posted on their website yet though.

This was a real sweetie. It has more miles on it but has all the goodies and looks great. It never sold. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170596440677&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

If you are running that much boost on your truck B 5.9 with a stock head gasket and the factory bolts, you are VERY lucky so far. My understanding, is that pretty much anytime you are going to excess 38 to 40 psi boost, you need to go to ARP studs or some similar type of clamping. The stock head gasket, I don't think will hold 60+ psi indefinitely. The stock head gasket and bolts will reliably hold upto about 38 psi. That is the max and even pushing it a bit in my opinion. Eventually it will go as well. Usually on a cold morning. Be sure to do a good warm up before getting into any major boost.

Amen!

Try removing the block heater cord at the block where it hooks up to the block heater element. It should unthread. Look inside the cup that threads up to the block heater element to ensure the contacts are clean and not arced out/melted or corroded. My wife's truck's block heater stopped working and it turned out to be a bad cord when I checked. I keep a spare cord and block heater element just in case something like this happens. I ordered mine from Geno's Garage. They had the best prices I could find on both. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3975628 http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HEATER_CABLE_FL

If your truck is equipped with an exhaust brake, you can set the exhaust brake at idle and it will raise the EGT about 150 - 175 degrees. This is usually enough to keep the engine temp up during extended idling but in extreme cold temps, this may not work.