LiveOak

PRIST is not all bad. It has an anti-microcidal in it to kill any little beasties growing in the diesel fuel. When diesel price went to near $5 way back when, I drove around and checked kerosene pumps in my area to find pumps that were still set at $1.99. When I found them, I filled every container I owned with kerosene. I ran it straight but added about quart of oil to each 5 gallons of kerosene. As already mentioned, fuel economy does fall off but not freezing. I use Amalgamated TDR-WDA formula for winter use. So far no problems. It is way cheaper than Power Service and other when purchased in the 5 gallon pale. http://www.amalgamatedinc.com/tdr-wda.aspx I run the TDR-S formula during warm weather.

If you have ready access to an electrical outlet, I would install an oil pan heating pad. http://www.padheaters.com/in_pan_oil_heater.html http://www.wolverineheater.com/

The problem is that all of the lug nuts came loose to the point that by the time my friend pulled over to check out the problem, there were only 2 lugs holding the dual wheel on and those two lugs were REALLY loose. The lug studs ate into the hub and elongated the holes VERY badly to the point that the studs had to be cut off with a torch due the nut seized up and the stud spinning in the hub hole. We are checking junk and salvidge yards as well as online possibilities.

Thanks Tom! That is EXACTLY what I was looking for. --- Update to the previous post... The next question is: where can I buy an axle hub to replace the one being removed??? So far, all of the auto parts stores in the area are saying the rear axle hub is a dealer ONLY item. I have searched all over on line. Found LOTS of FRONT axle hubs but NO rear axle hubs yet. The Dodge dealer quoted my friend a price of $375 for the hub! That is crazy! We are looking at maybe replacing the entire rear axle with a used axle for that price. Haven't found one yet but am still looking. Anyone have any web links for the axle hub at a reasonable price???

Amazing how much we have forgotten about our OWN history and culture. Reminds me of those who don't learn from history are condemned to repeat it. Great post!

A friend had the lugs come loose driving down the road on the right rear wheels. The lugs ate up the holes in the dual wheels AND in the wheel hub. I tried doing a search in a number of places to try and find a nice write-up on this job so my friend will be able to do it prepared BEFORE he starts it. I realize there are a number of special tools, a DD 1241 (2 1/2 inch) hub to axle nut socket that is needed. Has anyone done this job before or know where a good write-up on this can be found? Many thanks in advance.

The CH41102 (which is the correct Centriguard Filter for our trucks) has an oil pressure operation range of 44 - 87 psi.

Looks like some others are picking up on my idea of installing this bypass filter on our trucks. http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/6-7l-engine-transmissions-2007-5/227434-fleetguard-centrifugal-separator-ch41102-anyone.html --- Update to the previous post... I forgot to add that my friend Ricky who is the parts manager at my John Deere dealer went to a new products convention in Houston, TX back in early November. Ricky got a chance to talk to the Fleetguard/Cummins rep. who helped him order one of these Centriguard filters for me. Ricky sent it to me before Christmas and I just UPS'd off to a friend who is an EXCELLENT fabricator and has mind of designing stuff like this on our trucks. He thinks he may be able to fabricate a mount of some kind that will facilitate mounting this filter on our trucks. I was taken a back at the HUGE size of this monster filter. NO WAY it is gonna be able to be mounted on the battery hold down bolt, plus it is heavier than I thought it would be. I estimate close to 10 lbs. It IS however VERY solid, well, and heavy duty built. This particular Centriguard filter uses the Cone Stack rotor design which is apparent best at soot removal. I am really looking forward to see what my friend comes up with and getting these filters installed on our trucks. The price of motor oil just keeps going higher and higher. If this filter can extend the drain intervals to double or more the miles driven or hours logged on the engine, it won't take long to pay for itself. I'll keep you guys posted on how this project goes. If any of you are interested in one of these filters, let me know and I can set up a discount deal with Ricky and you can call him direct and buy a filter. Let's find out if this chick is gonna hatch before we count it though.

How many miles have you put on the current tank of fuel??? Make sure you haven't run out of fuel even if the gauge says otherwise. Ask me how I know??? Another possibility could be that the fuel filter has frozen or jelled up depending upon the weather conditions. I'll leave the electrical troubleshooting to the pro's who have already posted some great ideas.

I run a variety of oils, usually what I find on sale. My latest sale score is 12 cases of Valvoline Premium Blue the O'Rielly's had on sale recently. I used to use the Fleetguard Stratapore filters. They are great filters but cost about triple what a Baldwind filter costs when you buy them by the case. Baldwins makes great filters as well but at a MUCH lower cost.

Looks pretty cool but NO WAY I would attempt to drill hole and tap threads into the compressor housing. That is a good way to hose up a perfectly good turbo. You can down load the template for the heat shield, print the sections out, cut them out, and tape them together. Then scribe the template on a sheet of aluminum or sheet metal steel along with the mount holes, and cut the material out. Then drill the holes and make the 90 degree bend.

It is unusually cold out this week. Do you have cold weather fronts installed on your hood grill? The may or may not be a big part of the problem but if I forget to install the cold weather fronts on my and wife's truck, they both take FOREVER to warm up and will not hold heat worth a flip.

Dear Santa....... Can you bring me one of these: http://www.savagearms.com/images/firearms/finder/medium/12ftr.png And one of these would really be cool too! http://www.barrett.net/firearms/model82a1

Maybe this might work and has a nice smooth contour. http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/SPT9769.htm#

I meant to mention that one reason your fuel pressure figures may be a little bit off from mine is that we installed the Vulcan Big Line Kit on the truck since I had that parts for it when I installed the Air Dog on my truck. We just swapped the Big Line kit over to the wife's truck. This completely did away with all of the banjo fittings which are a restriction to fuel flow in and of themselves.

It is a cramped pain in the neck for working space getting the lift pump out and reinstalled in the OEM location. My Airtex pump came with the Dorman 90 degree elbow fitting. About the only thing I had to do was very slightly bend the fuel line just a little to align with the new pump and fittings. Otherwise, everything went in place pretty well. Now that I am using the Baldwind PF7977 fuel filters which I believe are 5 micron, I find that I am replacing them about every 2,500 to 3,500 miles. Sometimes they will go a little further before I note a fuel pressure drop from normal and replace them. I buy them by the case so they are pretty cheap that way, $10.16 each plus shipping from BF Web Express. http://www.bfwebexpress.com/catalog.asp Relocating the fuel pump to the frame just below the fuel tank will raise the pressure out put about 2 - 3 psi.

I have the Air Dog 150. The 100 and 150 are were the same price. The 150 will pump more fuel as mentioned and also return more fuel to the tank. I liked the idea of having the extra capacity to cover any future mods. The Air Dog 165 offers fuel pressure adjustability in addition to the above. NOTE: Take and sticky note to your forehead to fill out and return the warranty registration with a copy of your purchase receipt IMMEDIATELY! Otherwise your lifetime warranty turns into a 2 year limited warranty. MANY have forgotten to do this :banghead: for various reasons and run into some issues although Pure Flow has been very flexible and customer oriented about this in the past.

I have had the Airtex pump on the wife's truck for 2 years. No problems so far. (knock on wood) If your fuel system is still the stock OEM system, there is very fine fabric filter in the fuel draw straw/fuel level sensor basket in the tank. This filter in my opinion will stop pretty much anything that could possible cause any harm to the pump. Your call on this. I agree with Eric at Vulcan that the Airtex pumps are not very tolerant of contamination.........then again neither is pretty much any other pump on the market that has no filter. The orginal Carter style fuel pumps worked OK but failed due to a piss poor design, NOT anything drawn in from the fuel tank. Just my opinion, but I think you would be fine with one of the Airtex pumps. The problem with the Raptor and other similar pumps is that you can buy an AirDog for $499 and have the full blown REAL THING and be done with it. If I was gonna spend $365 for a Raptor, I would go ahead and spend the extra $135 get the REAL McCoy. Again your call on this.

Just so you are aware of the correct terminology and differences.........a "boost fooler" does just that and nothing else. If you are satisfied with the extra power of the RV 275 injector ONLY and don't wish to add anything else, this is what you might consider: https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-3853-bd-electronic-boost-fooler-985-02-59l-dodge-cummins-1515931-1515932-1515933.aspx I keep a spare boost fooler in my glove box like the one linked to above just as a backup in the event something may go wrong with the Edge EZ. It does nothing but boost fool the ECM. Otherwise, if the Edge or other box is removed, the potential exists to set off the check engine light with an over-boost code. The Edge EZ along with MANY other boxes, tuners, etc. not only provide a boost fooling function but in the case of the Edge EZ a time advance function which adds as much as 65 hp. There is 3 settings you can select. Other boxes, tuners, etc. not only do the above but also alter fueling in addition to boost fooling, and timing. https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-4073-edge-ez-985-02-59l-24v-dodge-cummins-30200-30201.aspx The Edge EZ in my opinion is a very simple but very complementary addition to a set of larger injectors, provided you have the air intake capacity and adequate exhaust.

The ECM is programmed to limit fuel to the engine through the injector pump at approximately 20 psi boost pressure. The boost fooler or box you install send a signal voltage to the ECM to fool into sensing boost is below this pressure so fuel continues to increase. The boost elbow changes and increases the boost pressure the turbocharger waste gate opens. The OEM elbow is designed to open the waste gate at approximately 20 psi boost pressure. Together with the larger injectors, the fuel, boost, and power output is increased in a compatible manner. Typically boost pressure is increased to around 30 to 35 psi before the waste gate opens. More than 35 psi is hard on the OEM turbocharger and getting into head gasket blowing territory. I realize this is off topic but I would be really interested in the story of how you installed a Fuller 8406 in your truck. Would make for a very interesting separate thread.

You are already part of the way there if you have the exhaust. I would loose the Hypertech Programmer. The combination of the BHAF, Edge EZ, exhaust, and 275 injectors is a tried, true, and simple combination that has proven to work very well yet be very moderate and reasonable with respect to a wide range of driving applications. Pretty much plug and play. There are tons of plug-in programming/timing boxes out there. The Van Acken and Edge EZ are probably the two that have been out the longest. The only other programmer I would use if not the Edge EZ I am currently using would be the Smarty but at about $650 with shipping give or take that is a lot more expensive but it will give you a lot more latitude with "tunability" and finding a tune that you prefer best. It also acts as a code reader as well and allows you to add the cold weather high idle if not already installed. The last item you may have to attend to is the clutch. Depending upon the condition of your current clutch, the added hp and torque may be such that it may cause your current clutch to slip in the higher gears with above typical power applied or plugging/hauling a heavy load. I had about 50,000 miles on my OEM clutch when we installed the injectors and Edge on mine and it would slip in 5th and 6th gear with a lot of power applied or hauling a heavy load of wood. The clutch is fine, it is just not designed to hold that much power. With the price of new clutches, I am NOT gonna trash can a perfectly good clutch with that low a mileage on it. I have learned to "calibrate" my right foot to avoid clutch slippage. Eventually I will install a South Bend Clutch when the time comes. Your clutch may or may not slip if you still have the OEM clutch installed in your truck. Just be aware of the potential possibility and watch for it. In the event is does happen, back off the throttle immediately and/or shift to a lower gear. If you are pulling for a living or hotshoting, a stronger clutch may be something you want to install right away.

In my opinion, the simplest and most cost effective route would be to find a used Edge EZ. This will do exactly what you are wanting. There are other options out there that will do this or exceed this and allow adjustablility above or below this goal but the cost is substantially more. Your profile didn't show what if any mods you may already have on your truck. If your truck is stock and you are making these mods, you should know that you will need to upgrade the air induction and exhaust as you may run into EGT issues pushing this much boost through a stock OEM airbox and exhaust. I strongly recommend a BHAF with heat shield and a 4 inch or larger exhaust. In addition to the EGT issue, you are likely to set the air filter minder each time you pull 30 or more lbs. of boost through a stock OEM airbox. Mine did but I went with a bit larger injectors.

While shopping around for auto insurance the insurance clerk asked me if my truck was equipped with air bags.........I replied that the wife rides in the truck alot, doe that count? That's when the fight started.

Hilarious!!! ROTHFLMAO!!!