LiveOak

Depends upon what kind of results, hp, and torque you are looking to achieve. What did you have in mind?

#2 diesel has an approximate 5% higher btu content than #1 diesel. If you are burning #1 diesel (I suspect you are that far north), you will see a slight drip in fuel mileage as compared to #2 diesel. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_efficiency The big fuel mileage killer is the speed at which you are driving. The most efficient speed for these trucks is around 45 mph or about 72 kph. In any particular object moving through the air (as a ground vehicle), there is a sweet spot in which the least amount of energy is required to move it the farthest. In this instance the types of drag that come into play are "parasitic drag" and "profile drag". These are both combined into "form drag". This comes into play MUCH more in aviation as you might expect and "induced drag" plays into the equation. For the purposes of illustrating how drag comes into play more and more with increased speed, we are looking at "form drag" with motor vehicles. If you look at the chart, you can see where the induced and form drag lines intersect. This is the max efficient airspeed for an aircraft. Now, our trucks are not flying but note how the form drag line radically climbs with increased airspeed. As the airspeed is doubled, the form drag is SQUARED. That means LOTS of drag going fast. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parasitic_drag Summed up: Power The power required to overcome the aerodynamic drag is given by: Note that the power needed to push an object through a fluid increases as the cube of the velocity. A car cruising on a highway at 50 mph (80 km/h) may require only 10 horsepower (7.5 kW) to overcome air drag, but that same car at 100 mph (160 km/h) requires 80 hp (60 kW). With a doubling of speed the drag (force) quadruples per the formula. Exerting four times the force over a fixed distance produces four times as much work. At twice the speed the work (resulting in displacement over a fixed distance) is done twice as fast. Since power is the rate of doing work, four times the work done in half the time requires eight times the power. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_(physics) Fuel consumption changes radically with the above drag increase. In another life, I had to compute this and other factors & requirements prior to take-off. By selecting the optimum altitude, airspeed, cabin heat, and engine anti-ice requirements as well as other factors, fuel consumption would vary between a minimum of around 700 lbs. per hour vs. using max. continuous power or 30 minute limit power which would increase fuel consumption to upwards of 1,200 lbs. per hour. Or about a 100 gallons per hour vs. 180 gallons per hour. If I cruise at about 50 mph or 80 kph, I typically get about 22 to 24 mpg. If I increase this speed to 75 to 80 mph or 120 - 128 kph, my fuel mileage drops to around 11 to 13 mpg depending upon how much weight is on the truck. If I am towing, it drops even more. Another issue in addition to the right foot that could effect fuel mileage is a dirty or inaccurate reading IAT sensor. http://smokindiesel.com/Technical.htm http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/sensors/IAT/clean.htm Most diesels will get slightly lower fuel economy in cold weather due to more fuel being required to maintain environmental heat in the engine. Be sure to check and verify no boost leaks in the turbo plumbing. Mike has a great write-up on cleaning & inspecting both the IAT and MAP sensors: http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/map-sensor/map-sensor.htm Try all the above or what you think may apply in your case and see what if any improvements you can make in fuel mileage.

My truck is a 2002. Uses a different fuel filter canister. I could not remember where I bought the fuel heater element and seals for mine when I last posted the reply to you. (living life with CRS :banghead:) I just now remember where I got them. Give Hoesli Diesel a call. They found the parts for me and at a great price. They may be able to find the correct seals you need too. http://hoeslidiesel.com/store/index.html

You can get parts and seals for your filter canister at the dealer or Cummins dealer. I am pretty sure they are dealer or Cummins only items. 20 psi is the max these pumps will put out, if you relocate them to the frame. That is not enough pressure to hurt anything. Once the engine is started, the pressure will vary according to driving conditions at some pressure less than 20. You want enough fuel pressure to open the fuel return in the injector pump which aids in cooling and lubrication. The pressures I listed are best case. With use, wear n tear, and fuel filter accumulation, these figures will almost always gradually reduce.

What speed do you typically drive at?

Depending upon the area and cold weather climate extremes your area typically encounters, diesel fuel is blended accordingly to prevent gelling, wax crystals, etc. This is normally accomplished with varying blends of #1 and #2 diesel as well a various additives which help lower the gel point or wax point of diesel fuel. #1 diesel has less BTU's than #2 diesel. More #1 diesel must be burned to achieve the same amount of work. Another issue that comes into play is that a diesel engine must develop enough heat in the cylinder and surrounding area to develop efficient combustion. In cold weather conditions, more diesel must be burned to achieve and maintain this level of heat. Here is a good primer on diesel fuel: http://www.chevron.com/products/tips/fuel-school/?&aID=54&cID=15

I run plastic fronts in both the upper and lower grill inlets. I typically don't get around to removing them until late May/June. Never had any over heating problems, plus a nice side benefit is they really keep the bugs out of the A/C condenser well.

I run 15W-40 year round without any issues. If you are concerned about extreme cold weather cold starts, be sure to plug in the block heater to your truck at least 3 hours before you attempt a start and use an oil pan heater of some sort. This should keep the oil at an acceptable viscosity for cold starts. http://compare.ebay.com/like/200534230808?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&_dmd=Gallery&var=sbar&rvr_id=179592568552&crlp=1_263602_304692&UA=WVI7&GUID=db2fa7cb1290a02652f215c2ff0c4602&itemid=200534230808&ff4=263602_304692 http://compare.ebay.com/like/230554772415?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&rvr_id=179618500413&crlp=1_263602_304662&UA=WVI7&GUID=db2fa7cb1290a02652f215c2ff0c4602&itemid=230554772415&ff4=263602_304662 http://cgi.ebay.com/Kats-Handi-Heat-Magnetic-Heater-300-W-1160_W0QQitemZ280599138961QQcategoryZ20613QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kats-Magnetic-Heater-Part-1160-Magnum_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQitemZ180594627132

Sorry to hear of the fuel pressure problems you are having. I have posted a number of replies covering this issue as have others. The short answer is, buy and install an AirDog 150 or 165 or FASS. If you truck is stock and you plan to leave it that way, buy and install an Airtex E7153 fuel lift pump. It is not the ideal solution but will work well on a stock truck PROVIDED you install a fuel pressure gauage to alert you to a drop in pressure that is unaccceptable either due to a restricted fuel filter or marginal lift pump. The Airtex pump will deliver about 17 psi at idle and fluctuate between 12 psi and max output for normal driving. If you relocate the Airtex pump from the OEM position to the frame just below the fuel tank, it will produce about 20 psi max and produce a pressure range of the max and about 14 psi. This will change and lower some with wear and as the fuel filter gradually accumulates contaminants. Rock Auto carries the Airtex E7153 fuel pump for $122.79 currently. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=203&partnum=E7153&a=FR203-E7153-70510 You can purchase a big line lift pump relocation kit from one of the dealers who support this forum or from Vulcan. This is what you are looking for: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm Again, the AirDog 150/165 or comparable FASS is the BEST solution. If you plan to modify the engine, this is the best course of action. If you will stay stock and money is an issue, the Airtex pump is an acceptable solution. It costs much less, is a direct drop in replacement of the OEM Carter style lift pump, and is a very reliable pump. Try doing a search on Airtex pumps or fuel pressure.

http://www.kxly.com/news/25975011/detail.html

http://compare.ebay.com/like/370328854326?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&_dmd=Gallery&var=sbar&rvr_id=178121233713&crlp=1_263602_304692&UA=WVI7&GUID=db2fa7cb1290a02652f215c2ff0c4602&itemid=370328854326&ff4=263602_304692 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330433010376&crlp=1_263602_304642&ff4=263602_304642&viewitem=&guid=db2fa7cb1290a02652f215c2ff0c4602&rvr_id=178106591341&ua=WVI7&itemid=330433010376

Hang on to your wallets guys...........it won't be long before you are looking back at these prices pining away, seeing them as the "good ol'e days".

I would go with the 1/2 fuel hose. The cost is not that much more and the 1/2 fuel hose has a much greater capacity. The 3/8 will probably do everything you want unless you really modify the engine. In my opinion, the larger line will provide the max. fuel flow to the VP-44 and afford the most protection as well as greatest fuel deliver capacity. The draw straw is a good bit more involved with modifying the fuel basket if you go that route or requires you to cut a hole in the tank for the install of the draw straw that comes with the Air Dog kit and requires dropping the fuel tank. The stock draw straw will likely provide the fuel you need unless you get into more aggressive mods. If you are sticking with the OEM style or Airtex fuel lift pump, the stock draw straw will be more than enough. If you are going to install the Air Dog, and expect to continue upgrading to more engine mods. then you may want to install the 1/2 draw straw.

You can route the fuel line through or around the OEM fuel filter it will work either way. Many can get away without their fuel jelling bypassing the OEM fuel filter which incorporates a fuel heater element. I personally routed my Air Dog and 1/2 inch fuel hose lines through the OEM fuel filter cannister deliberately to obtain the benefit of the fuel heater. The ECM gets no input from the fuel heater or OEM fuel cannister although the WIF sensor does illuminate a light on the dash. At least that is my understanding of it. If you live in a climate that encounters cold weather, enough to possibly jell or freeze the fuel, I strongly recommend routing the fuel lines through the OEM fuel filter.

I bought my Edge EZ used, so I sent it back to Edge for a refurb. and check out just to be sure before I put it on my truck. The previous owner had really bad smoke problems using this Edge EZ with the Forumula 1 Mach 1.6 injectors that I bought from him as well. Edge checked it out for free and shipped it back to me. Works like a champ. Might be worth having it checked out if you haven't done so already.

If you use one of these pretty regular, you can pretty much double the life of your batteries: http://www.ctek.com/EN-US/consumer/mus-7002.aspx

Welcome to the forum!

Have you tried removing the Edge EZ to see if that make any difference? Sorry if you have already covered this and I missed it.

I am still running my OEM batteries. (knock on wood) I am gonna try to get one more year out of them.

GREAT post ISX!

My memory sucks. I almost bought a set of these wrenches from Geno's Garage last night but remembered or so I thought that someone on this forum makes and sells this wrench set.

Hope this helps answer your questions: http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/Ramspecs.htm

I ordereed a spare cord and block heater element tonight, along with an engine barring tool and a few other goodies.

I believe the cord threads into the heater element.

DITTO what flagmanruss said.