John T

regalia the plastic nuts?.... i have no idea what that means, but i meant to say reglue. darn autocorrect

ok, im all recored , flushed and refilled. all seems good again. I did have to regalia the plastic nuts at the front of the dash. (Gorilla construction adhesive) But.... i have 2 screws left over. I wouldn't normally worry about 2 screws but they look kinda important. Anybody recognize these?

I just finished mine today. one thing I might add is this: I spent a whole day looking for the plastic snap- in nuts at the front of the dash. all of mine were broken and I ended gluing them in with Gorilla brand construction adhesive. I found out later, Geno's garage sell them but they are almost $6 each. I don't know which model years included these nuts but if I had them on hand it would have saved a lot of time and frustration. Did I mention they are almost $6 each?

ok, thanks . Ill let you know how it all goes

yup, guilty. i have a garden hose attachment for my heater hoses.... should i remove my thermostat during the flush?

well Im waistdeep into it! now I see where all the green was coming from. Not paint at all, but Im not sure what it is... copper? take a look: oh yea, you know those white plastic anchors along the windshield where the 5 screws go into to hold the dash in place? all of mine broke. Im hoping its not hard to find a suitable replacement.

Thanks Guys!

i figured as much.... i had the evaporator changed a couple yrs ago (paid to have it done). so i was hoping for an easier solution. oh well...

is there any way at all to change it without evacuating the A/C?

YIKES!?

you know....i recently ran my defroster and I vaguely remember a slight antifreeze smell. But the plugged drain issue.... are you guys talking about the A/C evaporator drain just outside the firewall? or is there another drain. Im hoping I don't have to pull my dash.

For a couple months now I noticed moisture dripping from the floor vent on the passenger side of the tranny hump. right next to the " SRS" cover (I hope that makes sense) The moisture is mixed with what I THINK is green paint from when I painted my truck about 4 years ago and got overspray into the exterior vent at the bottom of my windshield. I know that sounds strange because it seems whatever paint was in there would have dried long ago. So I am open to suggestions for other explanations for the green stuff. While I first thought the moisture was water, now Im not so sure because it feels somewhat oily. any thoughts? Ill try to post a pic to help explain. this is a '96 2500 totally stock

I was working on my headlight yesterday and noticed 2 items I couldnt identify. 1.some sort of contact switch located under driver side battery... inside the battery box 2. looks like some sort of reset button next to driver side headlight Thanks, guys

Thanks guys

I want to buy a barring tool for my 96 12v.Ive seen prices from $35 up to $75.whats up with that? Are there different ones? Also, is the barring tool suitable to hold the engine in place while tightening the bolts on the damper?thanks

Had to replace my mirror today too, but there's a wire with a plug similar to a small headphone jack. I have no clue where that goes. (not the one with a plastic connector similar to a telephone plug... i see where that plugs into the mirror) Thanks guys

I havent been on this site for a while and I just saw your post.I have been helped tremendously by this site, and sending a pic would be a way for me to give something back in spite of my limited knowledge.So... long question made short... Do you still need more pics?I have a totally stock 1996 12V.John

Hopefully i dont have to remove dash.better yet, how do i keep them out and how do they get there in the first place?

IF memory serves me right, I think that's the same way mine acted when the starter contacts failed.It's been a while, so I may be way off base. Just a thought.

No rotors not turnedYes from Advance auto; don't remember if silver or gold but Yes they have tapered ends.

Awesone work. Thanks,

They are "Wearever"

I get this intermittent low-pitched growl from my new brake pads. Turning a corner seems to start the noise. Like I said, it's intermittent and may not show up for a week or more.While it's occurring, if I step on the brake pedal the noise stops but returns as soon as I lift my foot.All I can think is that the pads are dragging somehow. I've removed the wheels to look at the rotors,pads etc and all seems normal.When I did my brake job, all I did was replace the pads. I did nothing to the calipers or pistons.Should I have removed the pistons and cleaned them or anything else?This noise doesn't seem to affect drivability or stopping, but it sounds so horrendous I figure it can't be good.Thanks, John

After replacing my evaporator I had the same issue.I returned to the mechanic and he used a sealer around the drain tube. Been fine ever since.Carpet dried out fine... but Florida sun will do that.

Sorry for such a late reply, but......I replaced the actuator on my driver's side a while back.Found one on Ebay. If I can determine the seller I'll post again.Mine was doing exactly the same as yours.After I replaced it, I did an autopsy on the old one and I think it (and yours) could have been fixed.I'm going from memory here, so details are fuzzy but once I got inside I noticed a piece of the linkage was attached to a small plastic gear. That teeth in that linkage/gear thingy were worn causing it to sometimes slip.I think some strategically placed epoxy would have fixed it.Now... that being said....My replacement part was reasonably priced and there was a moderate amount of PIA factor in reassembling the old old one so in my case replacement made sense. But if you're stuck paying dealer price, I'd definitely try to resurrect the old one.Good luck. You say yours sometimes works and sometimes doesn't....Do you hear it "running" when you hit the button?Mine would "run" but sometimes the lock wouldn't move.If yours doesn't even run, then my post probably doesn't apply.