Silverwolf2691

I think every brake light switch is "not reusable". I had to do one on one of my vehicles and it didn't have the lever like the Cummins. When you let the brake lever contact the plunger and start to push it in, you could hear either something slide or ratchet slightly until the end of the stroke of the pedal, then it was set. I think that its for either multi vehicle compatibility or its for dealing with tolerancing of everything from the hydrobooster to the dash. @MikeH, what does the lever on the end that you flip after install actuate? Is it the position lock for that metal collar? From the photo, as best as I can tell, the plunger is telescoping. It slides into the part with the cams, bumps, etc that hit the switches. The spring is for returning to extended position, and I think the metal collar is what grabs the plunger to move the assembly (plunger and cams) when the pedal is released. From the look of it, there could be an issue of age with that lever that looks to clamp the metal collar. The rod its attached to is supplying tension to keep everything working but after a long time of the collar sliding on the rod, it might not be able to keep enough tension on the collar and then the spring force overcomes the tension provided. That causes the cams to push forward and you to have brake lights on all the time.

@Mopar1973Man, you don't think the block could be bored? Cummins sells .020 and .040 overbore pistons.

Are bad valve guides a new head or can they be replaced? I'm assuming that 4 years is enough to tear up valve seals if they are going bad

Yep. Multiple tunes, multiple pulls, all have those little dips in them. Some have been earlier in a pull as well have the actual numbers instead of a graph if you would like that as well Forgot to add: is the transmission slip accurate at all with a standard transmission on the quadzilla?

engine load I thought I read that somewhere on here, ok so that's a non issue. Replaced the map, iat and ect sensors back in 2017 with the head gasket swap. I understand if you don't remember, but why was the decision made to keep with the map sensor instead of a separate pressure sensor?

Popping is normally timing first then other things after if I remember right. I just don't know what direction it needs to go. Best place to start is the Quadzilla power forum on here just start picking through threads. If you want the history of the Quad v2, there's a thread of that. I think its 65+ pages of the beta testing from members on here.

@Me78569, sorry hit the wrong button and posted early

Have a couple random questions about my truck: 1. On start up, the puff of smoke is getting thicker and bluer. It also has a slight oil smell to it. Idling for a bit also starts getting an oily hint to it as well. I'm assuming that this is either turbo or valve seals. I don't think its valve seals because those are only 4 years old from when I rebuilt the head.. Turbo is the factory hx35 with 213k on it so id think its getting time to rebuild. 2. While sled pulling, in my Quad's datalogs I have found that the canbus fuel is dropping off a bit then back up to 4095. I don't have back downs, and throttle stayed at 100%. The green vertical bars are canbus, the yellow line is load, and the brown/copper one is throttle position. this is my most recent sled pull. It was this past Saturday, the 7th. 200ft track and stupid sandy, no grip. The dip in the middle was me letting off to see if I could get any more traction but I think it cost me distance instead. In the last half of the pull after me letting off the throttle and getting back on the fuel keeps dropping a bit. Dark blue is rpm, gray is egt, peach is timing, light blue is boost 3. after my pull the quad showed -40 for coolant temp then started reading again. I have mopar mans high idle kit but the bone heads at the dealer didnt actually turn it on despite having the tsb in front of them, don't know if that makes a difference. I haven't had a chance to look thing over yet to see if I melted something or if something is loose. 4. My sled pulls seem to never register over 30 psi on the Quad, even though my isspros show 35-38.

Comp does both fuel and timing. Highly suggest a Quad, as does a good portion of this forum lol. It might help with everything at least a bit. Keep smoke and EGTs down, might help the mileage and spool up.. Your injectors are somewhere in the range of 300-350 hp injectors. If they are industrials injectors, I think they pop them low, like 260 bar (3770 psi) I think, so that they flow a lot. Low end for our trucks is 290 bar (4206 psi).

Sintered iron dual disk must have been fun to drive.. Supposedly triples are smoother. But sintered iron is a pulling clutch for sure, its meant to be slipped at the start without roasting the clutch. I think you bought a streetable 2.6 class pulling truck. The hard part is I think the dragon flow needs the large ID lines and tubes otherwise you won't have the vp44 for very long. Or that the injectors have to be that size to not kill the pump. I dont know what timing is added to a dragon flow but the big lines i think have the effect of retarding timing. Do you have any boost fooling device? I would get a quadzilla for timing, fuel control, and the info capabilities. The comp hot unlock was for the rpm, full fueling to 3200 rpm, supposedly.. I know certain large pumps dont have the best idle quality so you might be at the crossroads of living with it or replacing things with less competition level parts.

@Stanley do you have any tuner? You mentioned in your signature a dragonflow vp, .093 lines and 6x18s, but then you mentioned unknown fuel components? Tbh, your fuel set up is set up for high end sled pulling or drag racing. 6 holes are usually dirtier than 7 hole injectors as well. You will probably be hard pressed to clean up the amount of fuel you are tossing through your engine. The loping is possibly the result of the setup you have for fuel. Also some injectors at this power level are popped stupid low. I think industrial injection pops theirs at like 260 bar for flow, and because most people run ppumps swaps at this power level which are popped lower to begin with.

Part super 9 turbo, part high boost i think. What psi are you seeing now? The tight housing of the super 9 is raising backpressure and egts. I know the normal HX35 is good up to 35 psi but idk if thats the wheel or housing or both that drives that limit. Over 35 psi for a normal HX35 and it starts pushing overheated air.

Had to do the body mount [tsb] on the truck.. clunks in the floorboards over certain bumps.. among other things..

Do you have a body lift or anything like that? I know that causes issues sometimes. So to be clear, your tcase shifter is sloppy but if you hold in it goes into gear. Quick check is to put it in 4x4 with the truck off, then crawl under the truck and grab the front drive shaft and try to turn it. If that is engaged, try turning while driving on dry pavement in 4x4, carefully please, if it hops and binds while trying to turn, everything is engaged. As for the popping out, the gears, if they are worn, could push themselves out if the load changes drastically. There is also the possibility that your tcase is loose and is pushing itself out.

Techs put it at about 63 all the way around. Ill try lowering the pressures and see what that does. Is the spring rate/preload/etc on the 4.5 gen trucks just that sensitive?

2019 is the 5th (4.5 gen) gen start. Ram/Cummins allows power service per the manual, not sure if its specifically recommended. We (shoreline CT) didn't have a cold, cold winter this past one, but I didn't run any additives, anti-gel or otherwise in my 19, didn't have a problem. Not to say others wont, just my experience. I'm finding that an amount of ignorance on things helps keep complications at bay. Its like the whole synthetic vs dino oil debate that still rages on to this day. Both sides have holes in the argument and both sides have strong support. Its your money, you do what you want. Keep things changed on time and you wont have issues. Just as long as the weight is right. But if you don't ask the question, you would never have to start second guessing yourself about what you were putting into your vehicle. How does one find this information? Used to be a gas station clerk, we don't know that info. It's not provided to us.

Not a butterfly valve. It's a sliding ring around the turbine. Reacts relatively quick too. The ring closes down very tight to restrict the flow to the turbo and act as the butterfly valve on a standard exhaust brake. I'm almost positive the 5th gens 2017 and up have the he300vevg instead if the he351ve, but I think its a name change only, not sure though. Essentially the same turbo. <-After doing a bit of digging im unsure about this

Biomass is plant matter, in the case of bio diesel, I don't know exactly what it is but I'm guessing it's corn oil, soybean oil or similar. I haven't seen any biodiesel out here in the north east, but I don't travel much. The sulfur is an extreme pressure lubricating element I believe. Unfortunately, it technically isn't backwards compatible with the older injection pumps. I say technically because while as you and everyone else running an older diesel have experienced, it runs perfectly fine, the pumps were designed with a higher amount of lubrication inherent to the fuel. Since that is gone now, there is a higher chance of accelerated wear on the pump internals. Caveat to this is the engine oil lubed pumps, like a p7100 pump in the 12 valves. not as affected by the loss of lubrication. I can also guarantee that its ultra low sulfur diesel. Low sulfur diesel was the hold over I think until the ULSD came out. and all of this was driven by emissions, otherwise known as CARB and EPA. Difference was 500 PPM (could have been 50 PPM) in low sulfur vs 15 PPM in ULSD. This is how I understood it, I could be wrong. I'm also unsure on the low sulfur part. PPM is parts per million.

Possibly, for daily driving. That's why I mentioned racing only. I would experiment but I would install a Keating machine cover with the access hole for adjusting the timing of a ppump. But that's a bit rich for my wallet right now. An adjustable timing gear would be interesting too. Only want to add 4° go right ahead lol. As for the slow launching, possibly, but the original idea was talked about in the sled pulling crowd, no low rpms there.. and I think the Midwest like Lucas Oil Pro Pulling League ppump guys are only in the static 35-40° range ("only" lol), and they are carrying 3500-5000 rpm down the track, depending on the class. @Great work!, could you explain the last photo and your statement of 54° before or after top dead center? I know I kind of took over your thread for a bit but my idea messes with static timing, and you were measuring it. in the photo there are some numbers that I was wondering where you got them. the 6.7 for instance.. [I have to learn to slow down when I'm reading.. I figured most of it out but I'm still interested]

This I agree, but the idea I was mulling around is similar to bumping timing like a p-pump. You still have 30° of adjustable timing, it just becomes 10°-40°..

@Mopar1973Man, is there anything registering the timing gear's position of the vp44? There was something that I found on competition diesel a while ago with the vp44 and rpms and sled pulling. Some of those members tried advancing the timing gear one tooth clockwise to mechanically advance the injection event, its about 10° advanced. Most abandoned the idea because everyone said that it ran like crap below like 2500 rpm I think, but ran like a bat outta hell above that. And if the non Quadzilla tuners just add on top of factory, you would be at 21+° of timing at an idle, at least on my truck.. I haven't played around with the sliders that much to see what they could pull down too, but IN A RACING SITUATION ONLY, could the Quadzilla pull timing enough to bring the rpm to something reasonable for take off and, at least with a quad 4k I would guess (extra timing sliders), be able to hit like 40° of timing? Sorry for the hijack, I just didn't know if it was worth its own thread to ask that, or what section to put it in..

Coming from the dealership my dad works at, I would hope that they would have checked that stuff but I'll double check it. I'm not getting wander or play, and I feel nothing abnormal in the steering wheel. Running duratracs right now (stock size), swapped tires with another customers truck at the dealer which were the firestone transforces, same vibration. Only difference was a quieter ride because of a less aggressive tire. Same vibration, speeds, etc. Also road force balancing usually picks that stuff up. The shop foreman went on the ride with me and he was saying that the vibrations are from the road. He said my truck must be picking up the bumps in the road differently. Here's the thing, my second gen drove the same stretch of highway, like an hour later, and was smooth. You would think a leaf sprung truck would feel everything and more intensely than a coil sprung truck.. My dad thinks its transfer case or transmission, I don't think it is because the vibration is too slow. I'm wondering if an axle shaft got bent during initial shipping to AAM.. unless they make their own.. I don't know how you would bend a shaft like that without destroying the axle..

So I bought my 2019 2500 used back in Sept of 2020. Ever since I bought it, its had a few vibrations. It has a small amount of bumper to bumper warranty left, but I just got it back Wednesday from 45+ days at the dealer trying to fix this. The vibration feels road/tire speed not engine/driveline speed. You feel it in the drivers seat and floor boards. It happens in the high 30s to almost 50 mph. Then eases up until 65 and up, and never really goes away. The kind of wild card is that especially at highway speeds, the vibe isn't constant, it kind of disappears (quick fade out then quick fade back in) for a couple seconds then right back. It doesn't line up with corners either. The other wild card is, the drive from the dealership is usually fine, but the next morning the vibration is back, same as before. dealership has done: multiple road force balances on all four tires, only match mounted one rim/tire. Swapped tires and rims with another truck, no change (turns out that truck vibrated when it had a trailer hooked up to it as well) checked rim runout checked brake runout checked driveshaft balance I have done a lot of reading around the 5th gen ram truck forums and there is no clear answer. Some are fixed by new tires, some are fixed by new rims, others have gone so far as to measure the driveshaft angles and find that those are not even close to correct and having to fix that with aftermarket adjustable arms and shimming the transfer case. <-The guy who did this ended up lemon lawing the truck because it still didn't fix the vibration. Then there are others that find that its the transmission or transfer case causing the issue. I'm a bit at a loss right now. @Turbo Terry, I know you are waiting for yours, just be proactive when you test drive the truck for the first time. I constantly have to remind myself that forums are often a vocal minority. I hope my issues don't sour your feeling about yours. I've been fighting with the dealer to fix it 3 times since January, all 3 times same thing, drive home was smooth but next day the vibration was back. All told, the truck has been at the dealer for over 90 days over those visits. Unfortunately, CT lemon law is 24k miles. I bought the truck with 23k but first brought it in with 26k. So I don't think I can lemon law the truck. This past time they said they were done with the truck, as in not putting anymore money into fixing the vibration, so I either have to restart with another dealer or see if I can figure out what it is. Good news is I'm not barred from warranty work in general.

You might have a new enough truck that it received the new timing case. They put a step in the bore to close up the hole enough to keep the pin from falling out. When I did my front crank seal I looked and saw that I had the updated case. I don't know if mine came from the factory that way or not, I'm guessing mine got swapped at some point because I don't have a data tag. And the holes for the rivets look untouched. Short answer is yes it could be an issue, but you wont know for sure until you pull the front cover. Pulling the timing cover isn't hard, its just time consuming because all the bolt are different lengths that hold the cover on and You have to take the harmonic damper and fan pulley/bracket off. And you should replace the crank seal. A is the dowel pin in question, B is some damage that can occur. Updated case, cant just use a ground down washer

I'm gonna keep an eye on mine then. Did my head gasket a few years ago, and with me racing, not a good thing to see I wonder if it was a supplier change.. I thought that the OE Cummins was fel-pro, because when you ordered the fel-pro one, it had the Cummins p/n stamped into it..