Dmaney

Looks like wet stacking, older tractors sometimes do it when they idle alot. They usually clean up after they have been worked hard.

Guess it depends on how much of a time crunch you are in. Is there a reason you can't rebuild your engine? If you rebuild it you know what you have. Find a good running donor would be next option for me. If you like tinkering and want to make some power P-pump is the way to go. Just have to take the time to dial it in.

Beautiful truck! Gotta love those long boxes. I had a lockup switch in my old 99 with a built goerend trans. Only time I used it was pulling loaded wagons up and down the road to and from the farm and back to the field. Trans temps would get high unless I locked it. Also they are a tough trans and underrated, I towed very heavy with RV275's and a smarty for years. Went to 210k before torque converter started slipping. Thats when it got the goerend trans. Take it easy and keep up with fluid changes and it will treat you good.

For some reason I thought it was just the 3500 that had the PITA front rotors. Never had a 2500 only 3500's. Although that hd steering on the 99 gave pretty good service life couldn't complain one bit on that one. The 02 is @ 115k and just did ball joints, and track bar. Rest of the steering is OEM as far as I can tell.

My 99 had 300k on it with a 53 block and no crack issues when I sold it. Lots of heavy towing in the 220k I put on it, previous owner idk what they used it for. I think people get a little bent out of shape over the 53's. If it's not rusty your price isn't out of line in my opinion. Best of luck!

Slow pig... What tuners have you ran on it?

These trucks are pigs stock. No tuner correct? Didn't see it in your sig, just double checking.

My fuel gauge went from reading all the way down to 1/8th tank and fuel light come on to ran out of fuel at just over 1/4 tank on the way to the fuel station. Made it half mile from fuel station, had no idea I had fuel gauge issues. Kind of embarrassing to say the least.

I don't believe they are adjustable in stock hydros. Aftermarket may be different. I have to pretty well put my clutch pedal to the floor on my 5 speed. Was that way with the old clutch and the new one. Just put a stock clutch and stock hydros in dads 05 w/ NV5600 and still have to put the clutch on the floorboard just as you did with the original. The clutch fingers on the pressure plate were worn bad with 246k on it and the clutch would start engagement with the pedal maybe 2" off the floorboard. So if your clutch engaging about half way up your pressure plate is still in good shape.

Looks stout! Frame might bend before the bumper if you're not careful. Lol

Very nice work. Doing a great job!

Donaldson and rotella. Every diesel on the farm I run rotella. I don't think you can go wrong with any combo listed here.

Don't have to warranty any NV4500 or NV5600's. Seriously think they care? As far as the G56 there are lots of mixed reviews on what oil "should" be in them. Seems I've read where Mercedes and Chrysler don't see eye to eye on that one. But I like my old second gens and will cross the G56 bridge another day.

Have to remember @Mopar1973Man is running a NV4500, little different animal. That being said what he's using works great for him. Just personally I'll pay 4 or 5 bucks a quart more for the fluid that was made for my trans. If $20 makes or breaks me on a trans oil change every 100k then I probably shouldn't own a Cummins.

So is a trashed trans.