ISX

Alright Mike we gotta do some work on your logic Your truck is not our trucks. If your truck can handle a load, and I drive my truck there and it can't handle the load without hitting the overloads, what does that mean? Do I have to just barrow your truck every time? I realize you are proof that OEM springs can support a big load, but everyone else is proof that they wear over time. These are people with 1000lbs+ over the rear axle bouncing along the highway just like the guy with the bent hitch. It takes a toll on springs over time. My truck was used as a hotshotter before I got it and I can probably hit the overloads just jumping on the bumper. Springs wear, air bags don't. Springs also ride like crap compared to air bags. So there you have it. If you are trying to prove that OEM crap can support the load just fine, then yes, but it can't support it over time with the abuse that trailers put on them. So either let us barrow your truck and let us break your springs in or don't bring up your truck which has a completely different history than everyone elses. Don't hate, you know I'm right

I would never bother with overloads, go straight to airbags. I would ditch my overloads in a heartbeat if I had the momentum to do it.

New trucks are the opposite. You get a manual and you actually lose capacity. The tanks all full of water adds 1100lbs. I think you are fine especially with a 6 speed.

I'm all for electrical gauges, but they are only as good as the connection. The more splicing and dicing you do, the more potential for problems. Soldering kinda eliminates all problems. I am slowly converting everything to electrical. I see no problem with them as long as it is done right with solid connections.

That semi truck that is drifting and stuff that I think people have seen on here is actually built for the pikes peak race. 2 hours away after a 10 hour trip stodg? Let alone the constant 60mph crosswind in Kansas.

I've been doing lots of experimenting and don't even bother with anything accurate.. The valve overlap method is plenty close. Just rotate the engine with the damper rotating clockwise and watch the exhaust valve go down then as it makes its way back up, the intake valve will start to move. When the intake valve starts going down at all, stop. It will be within 5* of TDC. In the following chart I made, you can see 30* either way only drops the piston 0.22". So the valve drop method is basically overkill. Lucky you Also, at TDC the valve from 0 lash can drop 0.086" before it hits the piston. The valve stem can go roughly 1.794" before it is below the valve seals. Meaning the piston can drop 1.794" from TDC, meaning you can go 90* to either side of TDC. So there you have it. If the valves are overlapping at all you are good to go.

I can't find it let me go home and make a video of it all. I haven't got to use that fancy dial indicator yet.

I think you got it. I took my thermostat out to see what would happen once and it was on a hot summer day and I barely got to 140 after 10 miles.. The thermostat even wide open still creates a restriction so its better than what I did with no thermostat at all. The water flows so fast it just cools it way too good. Sounds like a good thing but a cold engine is not an efficient engine.

Let me dig around for the specs cause I am not sure on that 23 thing, I know I posted it somewhere. I will go home and do it again otherwise. I got a new 2" digital million dollar dial indicator now Been using a 1/4" piece of crap :banghead:

Valve overlap would work. One of the valves will go down then back up but before it stops moving, the other one will start going down. When the other one starts moving you stop and thats TDC. It's not accurate by any means but accurate enough to do what you want. I would just buy a magnet that will fit down the valve guide should the piston be down a little too far. You can also use the timing pin under the IP between the block and vacuum pump kinda. It's a piece of crap but it would work. I know many other methods but they all require a dial indicator. One thing you could do though I don't have the specs to try it, is if your cam is stock you can set the intake valve lash to .033 and when it contacted the valve it would be at TDC rotating it clockwise from the front. This would work because the intake valve is down 0.023" at TDC with the normal 0.010 lash so if you added that to it, you could basically use the cam as a timing device. You could just stick a 0.001 feel gauge in it and stop when it gets tight. Which brings you to the next point...anything other than an engine barring tool will move way too much to get that accurate, but the piston stays relatively close to TDC for a range of degrees because of the connecting rod and stuff so it would be pretty accurate. I would have to look up to make sure on the 0.023 thing though as I am going from reference, but I have done it to my truck and a few other trucks and double checked with a dead nuts method and it always worked, though I did it with a dial indicator finding 0.023" actuation, not a 0.001" feeler gauge.

I went to denver to go white water rafting and took the jeep with its fancy new 3 core radiator which runs around 200 under normal cruise. I went all the way up pikes peak nonstop and it got to 210 and that was it. It was kinda early in the morning so not a lot of people were out while I was up there. I stopped for a couple hours climbing all along the rocks trying to kill myself and it was noon by the time I started going back down. I just threw it in 2nd gear and let it whine all the way down and there is a checkpoint around 5 miles below the summit since the final 5 are the hardest. They check for brake temperature and its a resting point if you are going uphill since its another 15 miles past that to the bottom. I was following a BMW down and they told her her brakes were pretty hot and she needed to take it easy. In the past I have seen them tell people they should sit and let the brakes cool down. I pulled up and she said "199F, get outta here". After researching I found that 300F is when they tell you to let them cool for an hour. Apparently when they get hotter than that, brakes top functioning as well and they have had plenty of examples of people flying off the hairpin curves. There were lots of people pulled over already letting their brakes cool but to my surprise there were lots of people with their hoods open as well. Apparently the first 15 miles was too much. Thing is, these were brand new trucks and SUV's. Here I am in a 94' jeep piece of crap sailing up and down it. Was funny really. Does make me wonder how hot my truck would get. My theory is that since they have to drive up it at unlocked speeds and most have automatics, the tranny strains unlocked for alllllll those miles of steep grade and the heat transfers to the engine coolant through the tranny heat exchanger and eventually they just overheat. Still a sight to see lol. I made sure to wave as I went by.

Yeah just a regular 175HP pump from a 1994-1995 5spd cummins.

This is kinda interesting. I just wonder if it applies to biodiesel too. http://www.enginelabs.com/news/carb-defender-designed-to-counter-harmful-side-effects-of-ethanol/

I think the injection pump would be fine and not have water in it unless it got into the oil supply lines. I would think the lift pump would stop any water flow into the actual fuel system. I believe all the rust/seizing happens when wet metal is exposed to oxygen so maybe you could pull it while its still under water then pull the oil drain until it stops, dump the oil filter out then spin it back on, then instantly top the whole engine off with diesel fuel. Jump on it to slosh it up a little and then wait a while. The remaining water will sink to the oil plug since it is heavier than diesel and thats the lowest spot. Drain it all again, change the oil filter, dump 12 quarts oil in and pull it around the road with it in gear so the engine will start to build oil pressure and shove it around everywhere else. Do that for a miles worth. Let it sit for a day, then drain that oil, water should come out first, change oil filter. The engine won't turn on since all you are doing is unlocking the steering wheel and you probably dont have any electronics so the solenoid won't pull up, though it doesnt do that unless you are in the start position anyways. As for the fuel system, the lift pump will pump when you do this and that actually DOES need lube so it won't like pumping water. Before you do any pulling the truck around, take the inlet line of the lift pump and cap it. Then pull the return line and put it in a bottle of clean diesel. Run another line from the same bottle of clean diesel to the inlet of the lift pump. That way it will just recycle the fuel as you move and the list pump will be happy. Add some 2 stroke oil to it as well. Biodiesel would be even better. Change the fuel filter as well. Then you should be able to pull it around with the fuel system being happy. Now this is all in theory and yeah I might get shot down but if it was my truck I would probably still try it.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7048-Went-out-to-move-the-truck http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5117-DEAD-Batteries http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5182-Not-Starting-as-Before So now you guys can see what has already been said and start where the other threads left off..no need repeating everything. As for you Russ You said the sears guys didn't take the terminals off or looked like they didnt, so did you ever get them load tested properly? Have you tracked down any more crappy grounds? Have you used a multimeter on it to see what the voltage is lately? If they didn't test them properly and you have to keep a trickle charger on them to get them to have any kind of power then I would say the batteries are toast. Take them to a real battery shop that will take them out and hook it up to a fancy machine.

I always wondered about that but never heard anyone come out and say it. Now I know why you have to sync my brothers powerstroke. He does nothing but drive like that.

You can practice in your truck.. When my clutch blew all the springs up it was just engaged the whole time. I was at a stop sign and it just broke instantly so it took off but happened so fast that it just stalled before I hit the car in front of me. I just started it in 1st and drove it like a semi all the way home. It actually works a lot better in 24V's because they drop RPM so slow you can easily hit the sync speed. When you push the clutch in on mine the RPM drops like a rock and you hardly have a chance to get it in before you missed it so you gotta play with the pedal a little.

This guys F250 you would turn into a corner and the load would obviously shift but it rolled so much that it would cause oversteer so you would let off a little and then the thing would roll the other way a little and just sit there bouncing back and forth. The only way I could control it perfectly was to go into the turn with perfect steering wheel turning smoothness and ease so it would roll into the corner slowly without any momentum. It wasn't hard to drive really it just seemed to roll way more than it should.

Does that thing sway around every turn and blow all around the truck and stuff? The one I drove with an F250 slowly felt like the truck was rolling every time you turned and this and that. Didn't know if a SRW 3500 would have that issue.

I coulda used that for the little !@#$%^& who threw one under my jeep as I drove by.

Well that settles it. I'm never getting married

IMHO I would live 1-5 miles outside of a big city (>100,000 people).. If the houses are spaced far enough apart like some subdivisions are then I would consider living in a big city. Living right out of city limits means you can get at least 5 acres to stretch your legs on without any of the city limitations (like fireworks). I have lived in the country for 20 years and now that I am in a big city I can say I like it here better. I hated working on my truck and break or forget a part only to have to drive 25 miles round trip to get it. I also love that walmart is now 2 miles away on a secluded 4 lane avenue. You also get the job market of a big city which also means more money as I doubt podunk towns are going to pay crap. Being in the country has its benefits but the same benefits can be realized 1-5 miles outside of town. Plus you can get 25mbps+ internet. My parents spend like $80 month on some state of the art wireless ad hoc something or other and still only get 4mbps. Now there is one exception..... I would love to live at the grand canyon, somewhere I could see it, possibly even lake mead. It looks so incredible there and vegas isn't too far away so it would be awesome. Forest and trees don't really do it for me unless it is like arkansas in the fall. http://i.slimg.com/sc/sl/photo/o/oz/OzarkMountainsFoliage-Pano.jpg But I better damn well have a house atop a cliff. I probably would never live in the northwest/West coast. Vegas is more my style haha. Though I would never want to live in vegas unless there was a condo 40 stories up in some building on the strip. People in vegas are actually the nicest people I have ever met. They say it's because they want to sell you stuff but be that as it may they are still really nice. There are guys on the streets with coolers selling drinks with the best attitude and everything. Basically it's the only place that hasn't gone through the effects of societies trend to be antisocial, or so thats how I see it. Sorry Rogan, probably off topic.

I ran B20 in the winter once and it was awesome. It started like it was summer and I never had any issues at all. The high cetane is the trick and being biodiesel you have all the lube in the world. You might lose some mpg but it might actually be better. Antigel stuff detracts lube so even if you do add 2 stroke, it still might not be enough. Remember the HFRR was probably done with summer fuel..even though they did 200:1, it would be better if they did 128 with winter fuel and then with summer. B20 kinda eliminates any and all lube issues.

Electrical connections. Mainly the PCM and ECM stuff. You don't want to short anything so yeah. Most things are water tight but high pressure directly on them could penetrate the seals. Put the spray jet on the wide fan setting for electrical stuff and just give it a quick once over.

I guess you've never seen 2 people sit next to each other and text each other either Not kidding, tons of people do it..