ISX

I think I was more vague yet I meant lift of the cam lobe. I also have a 12 valve OEM cam here and the profile is kinda interesting. The intake lobe is very sharp as in it peaks then goes back down whereas the exhaust valve is very rounded so it kinda lingers at the peak and neanders back down. I am not sure if that has anything to do with it, sure don't know what a 24V cam looks like.

I'm not the most well versed on exactly what the governments duties are, though I know what they have a lot to do with today. But in the beginning (I guess the first 50 years of "USA"), what was the original intentions/roles/responsibilities etc. of government? I've watched a lot of things and I have uh, "thoughts" lately on if the government should even be part of such things. But yes, original things!

They did that here. It was a state park/rv park you ride dirt bikes at, a BIG one with 1000 acres and whatnot. Around noon (checkout time) cops manned the gates and checked every single valve stem cap and muffler bearing on it. That was the first time I had ever seen that.

We can't have people coming in and using up server resources with no participation on the actual forum. We would have thousands of people doing it if that were the case which we can't support. In other words, we scratch your back, you scratch ours..with participation. I hope you understand. You should be able to download now.

Whatever you did make sure it doesn't go over 45-50psi.. It could crack the fuel filter housing (supposedly). But it does prove your lift pump is still good. I would just order a tork tek OFV so you can adjust it easily. My old one has a huge hole in the bottom too and its a piece of crap. My new one has a 0.08" hole and its much better. I think the hole itself acts as a restriction and helps it out a lot.

Where did you get this 200F stat? I've only seen the crappy 180's and a 205 which I can't find at all.

No I only told him to put it back a few days ago.

I have an idea.. Scrap the articles button and throw in an entirely new toolbar. We have to scroll a lot anyways because thats the nature of a forum so its not like an extra half inch of scrolling is going to matter. Anyhow make each one of these a button just like the top toolbar (articles/forum/whats new/etc.) is, all on its own toolbar. You might start the toolbar off with "Articles:" so they know that all the buttons are articles. Make it so the toolbar is always visible up there so its never hidden.

Try this again. The High HP thing is interesting and I wonder if that means the intercooler is actually good. There is obviously conflicting stories so I shall set out to figure it out. Of course mind doesn't have any of that coolant in the intake manifold crap to skew the results. http-~~-//youtu.be/gECw7g_iAos Also, where is this coolant? My 12V intake manifold looks identical. Eidt: more I look um, is the IAT on yours actually screwed into the actual head as in straight into a valve channel?

Alright so we all saw the youtube by now with the 2 gauges. Well that was a spearco intercooler... I was looking at a thread on CF and noticed a guy from diesel power mag said after stock boost numbers, the stock intercooler would start to fall on its face. Meaning anything over ~20psi. When they did their test they registered a 73F difference over ambient. They then swapped in a BD fancy intercooler and it maintained 10F over ambient max. This apparently made a 250F EGT difference. Now this was on a 1998 12 valve and one guy told me the VP44 trucks have intercoolers that flow 8% better, though I'm not sure. Still, testing needs to be done. Mike sees a good bit higher IAT than ambient and says the coolant heats the air but I am wondering if the intercooler heats the air as boost raises and sorta takes the place of the hot coolant. If he has a lot of boost then there is a lot of air flow and I am not sure it would gather much heat from the manifold. I think there is a balance act going on between intercooler heat and manifold heat between low and high rpm but I would have to test this to be sure.

The SO pump is good to 650HP.

You gotta look further than 2ft Goes to rubber past the fuel filter.

I really hope everyone learns from you. There is another guy on CF who bought on a whim and basically paid the same high price for a piece of crap. It's great that you're very aware of it all and didn't get scammed However, there seems to be a lot of guys that aren't so lucky. The best thing to do would be to find someone that knows their way around diesels to come with you (if it's your first) and have them inspect it. Diesels have common issues and guys that own them know what they are (usually ). If you don't have a friend, look someone up in the 911 section because I think everyone would be glad to help. It's a shame guys are destroying trucks then suckering dealers just so they can then sucker us.

You can easily check injectors by loosening them one by one. They should all make the engine sound like a 5 cylinder, but one should do it AND kill the ping.

My concern is that they have no voltage and maybe its something in the wire/tap so they could take the stealth plate off and check for voltage with a multimeter and then check resistance from the end of the wire to the end of the wire tap. Or something.

You got something bigger than a thumbnail for that second pic?

Are there any pics of whats under that stealth plate?

The edge comp. It is how it does it's magic. Found it here, more info there but eh, thats the gist.

Right, the 4x4 light is switched by the actuator physically hitting the actual switch, so its bulletproof. But its kinda reverse that because it is normally closed (switch is on), meaning when the actuator hits it, it opens the circuit and the light goes out. You might try jacking the passenger side front tire up and it shouldn't spin if you are in 4wd, then go take it out and it should spin. The passenger side axle is cut where the CAD thing is and it has splines on each side of the "cut" and the CAD thing just slips a collar over the splines, interlocking them. It does this so the driver side wheel will just spin the passenger axle instead of the driveshaft when in 2wd, saving u-joints, etc.. I'm just throwing all this out there so you can picture the operation so you can see why jacking up the passenger front tire is the easiest diagnostic method.

Not for setting the valves it isn't. Just watch valve #1 for valve overlap. As in, clockwise the exhaust valve will open then close but right before it opens, the intake valve will start to open. Right when the intake valve starts to move, stop.. Counterclockwise (alternator method) the intake valve will be closing and the exhaust valve would be the one to watch start to move. Since the valves on #1 are both actuating, that means you can't do that piston at all. So on this page http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-12v-dodge-cummins/20-engine-valve-lash-adjustments you would do the valves labeled step 2 (bottom of page). Then make a mark on the damper in relation to something like the speed sensor, it can be very crude...then rotate the engine 360* and do step 1. Just remember to shake the valve side to side or up and down to make sure its loose, if it is down then you know you did something wrong. You cannot adjust lash on valves that are actuating!

Between the injection pump and the vacuum pump. Its kinda back in there and is a PITA to get to so I never use it.

I did put an injector in injector cleaner for 24 hours and pulled it out and scrubbed it and nothing changed. I talked to a chemist and he said that stuff has to move to slowly clean the injectors. Kinda like we can throw a brillo pad on top of the injector and wait 24 hours and it will still be sitting on top of a dirty injector.. So I don't know how true this is and obviously some long term use of injector cleaner would have to be administered to see if it works. I also don't know if we are actually seeing the true results. Injector cleaners aren't going to wrap around and hit the nozzle tip, they are only going to clean the internals. I always have some very light fuel coking on the needle seat face but I don't run injector cleaner so until I do, I can't say anything. When I take the injectors out, they always work fine. I have one that leaks but I cleaned it and took it apart a million times and nothing changed. One guy on here said he did the same thing with the same results and chopped it up to the injector physically being "worn out". Makes sense to me. Question is; is running injector cleaner to keep the injectors clean worth the added wear from the actual cleaner? Mike has shown countless times that all of this cleaner is just paint thinner. On VP44 trucks, that means the same paint thinner is also going through the precious VP44 which is lubed by fuel, but the injectors are also lubed by fuel. To me, the cost of taking them apart and cleaning them is nothing but your time. The cost of poor lubricity can be much higher. Injectors don't just clog up, they clog up only if your fuel filter isn't doing it's job. That being said, the injectors seem to have a certain amount of coking they accumulate, but this accumulation isn't much if everything is set right. Running WMO and other crap like that is not what these things are designed for because it is too thick and the cetane is too low and it doesn't burn as good or as clean. HUGE marine engines are designed for that crap, but not ours. So if everything is set right, we only get so much crap on the injectors. I clean mine every 5-10k because I find it addicting but they always look just like they did when I pulled them after 300k.. The coking on the injector nozzle might be thicker (barely), but for the most part it barely gets any accumulation on an engine with everything set up right. Over time, there are some places where very fine particles may wander into, but this takes a very very long time (probably 100k miles for it to accumulate enough to even see) to get into and the places it wanders really don't matter. Coking on the needle seat face is something as it is very precise though comparing my 300k to my 5k changes, it seems to accumulate instantly and then just kinda stops. But it probably accumulates more on a microscopic scale that might make a difference in injector function so all in all injectors should probably be cleaned every 100k miles to keep them perfect. One time I cleaned the injectors, threw them in, ran the engine for a while, and took them back out. All I did was idle. The injectors had surface carbon on it that wiped right off. But it just shows how instantly it gets on there, but it doesn't really accumulate. It might coke on there over time, but it doesn't seem to ever get thick. The injector holes are the only real concern as if they get coke over them even a little, then the spray patter will be off. On WMO injectors, the coking layers up and probably has this effect. At 300k miles before I had ever pulled them, I was still getting the same mileage I do today and it ran perfect.. Further proving that an engine set up properly will not have any issues. I know Mike has had some rough idle issues and has to clean them to fix it but for the most part, they are self maintaining, though its so fun to clean them so why not.In the end my personal advice is to clean them every 100k to keep everything (no matter how minimum) happy and use lube rather than injector cleaner.

If I remember, there are little plastic things that go on the tips of the fork that slide over the sliding collar. I'd imagine you are correct.