ISX

How does the WIF sensor work? Does is it just a ground that closes those 2 contacts when the water engulfs it and completes the circuit, or does it have a certain resistance minimum in which it turns the light on?

I made an end table with 2 sides and a middle shelf out of nothing but dovetails and glue. The middle shelf has dowels on it. I wouldn't be scared to put an engine block on it. It's 7/8" hard maple or something. So making it without nails/screws is very doable. I think you would have to use hard wood or something, not plywood though particle board mighttt be doable. Maybe I have my terminology screwed up. Particle board seems like it would work very well. Put dowels all over it and use lots of glue and voila. I have read glue applied correctly is actually stronger than the wood itself, so if you did put something heavy on it, it would break anywhere but the joint. Very neat stuff.

Having a ford, I have put all batteries to the ultimate test. That thing took a lottt of cranking to get it to start. I used a pair of red top optimas and they sucked. The initial 5 seconds were fine but then they went downhill quick. Then I had a pair of everstart maxx's and they would crank and crank forever. So my opinion is that for pieces of crap, use lead acid batteries.. But for everything else I don't see the problem. I mean you only need a few cranks to get the thing to start which the dry cells do fine and I have yet to see either of these red tops go bad yet. I have one in my jeep now. Plus there is no corrosion issue. The maxx is now in my dodge and now has a dead post so I switched to the other post and noticed the other day that it has all kinds of build up on it. It's done for. Do dry cells have the same derating in winter? I only remember seeing one rating.

Check this out and see if it relates to current times...

I got to thinking the other day about how we are supposed to have equal representation and yadda yadda. But if you think about it, only half of us got what we wanted (obama), which means the other half will have to put up with it. Most people seem to vote democrat or republican no matter what based on what they are registered under. George washington said political parties will only lead to corruption and manifest of power and now look what we have.. But the BS had already begun in washington's term as anyone with a disagreement is a problem.My belief is that everyone needs to get together and compromise with each other. It's so stupid that we have either Obama's bill of rights or Romney's bill of rights. Why can't they combine and make the best compromises that suit everyone. If they want to keep this crap up, they need to make it so 80% of america votes for the president. If it is half and half like it has been for the last decade, then they need to change something. It shouldn't be a toss up between 2 people, there should be one obvious choice that everyone agrees with.

Yes the coil of the relay needs the voltage stepped up to work or it will do nothing. It says the transformer isn't used on 230 but is used for 120 to get the voltage back up. Right now you are trying to basically start a truck with a 6 volt battery.. But it is more of a "it works or it doesn't" scenario with those coils. Hook up the transformer like it shows in the schematic and it will work.

See if the shutoff solenoid goes up when you turn the key on and "start" it. That solenoid energizes on the same circuit when the key is in the start position. That is ONLY to energize it (bigger wire), it uses a smaller wire to hold the solenoid when the key is in the on position. So if that isn't working, I would look farther back at fuses/relay.. I can't see the starter just dieing instantly either.

My truck is a lot happier at 70mph with the trailer than any slower and seems to get the same mileage as going slower. I think the engine is in a more suitable position at 2000RPM than at 1700RPM or something. Now we don't have any speed limits over 70 here and frankly I don't see the need to go faster. The last couple times I have been on the interstate I have just been drafting semis at 60mph (70mph speed limit). I stay far back so I wouldn't call it drafting but I figure he has a good reason to go slower and if I tail him then it's not solely my fault for going slow and then everyone passes us both at one time. Not like all these other stray cars going 10 under that everyone has to slam on their brakes for. I think everyone on a busy interstate should be doing the speed limit if they aren't in a semi truck. The ones doing the speed limit far outweigh the ones who aren't and a car doing 10 under is just a bottleneck in traffic. People get in the fast lane when they see a semi truck out of habit, not so with a car, so then everyone has their signal on waiting for everyone to get past so they can get over and pass the slow corvette. On a 4 lane that isn't busy, do whatever you want. I did all those mileage tests years ago on a 4 lane that has 1 car every mile... I could do 45mph (65mph speed limit) and think nothing of it, people would get in the fast lane a mile back knowing they were gonna pass me since it was so obvious. On a 2 lane, do the speed limit... Corners have their limits of course but if it's a straight road, do the speed limit! No reason to have 20 people behind you because some powerstroke in the 20th spot will try and pass everyone at once and create the biggest potential for a wreck ever. The only time I do this is on a 2 lane around here that has a long flat stretch that you can see a few miles on and has no driveways or anything. You give everyone else a second to pass and if nobody cares to make a move, that's when I make mine. I think its a given that the cummins dominates the highways so I like to give everyone else a chance since I will have no problem getting by everyone I stopped doing that a while back though, and its impossible to do with the jeep so I haven't passed anyone in a long time. Sit back and relax and enjoy the scenery. It's a mind game. You think going faster will make a difference, you must go faster to think you're not wasting time, but it makes little difference unless you're traveling several hundred miles.

It will be 40F tonight so in the morning I want to see how it starts. When I had the diesel shop in rolla do it, it barely started at 50F. It is still at 20* timing so it will tell me just how far they actually went. They didn't measure anything they just popped the timing gear off and turned the engine and put it back on. They took the delivery out for some reason but I don't remember any dial indicator going into it. They sure couldn't have got TDC off anything. I said I wanted it at 16* after the dillweeds on cumminsforum made such a commotion about it. I didn't even have the money at the time, I sold some things to do it. After doing it and telling the CF minor leagues how it started, they said it sounded like it was at more like 20*+. So, tomorrow will tell me everything I need to know. It's water under the bridge but to think they would do something like that and charge me $150...and have to drive an hour there.. It is really neat that once you get a TDC mark and know where the timing was previously, it only takes 20 mintes to change the timing. Really you don't need anything but to know what the timing is on the pump. If you knew what it was previously you are basically golden. Of course it could have slipped and whatnot. I've never seen it slip but its another CF myth that goes around. I'm going to test and see how close the mark is inside the pump as well since someone mentioned it's accuracy and I'm not 100% sure how accurate it really is. I heard the timing pin gear can be up to 2* off, though I was seeing a 2*ish gear lash so I'm not sure if they account for that or not. Update:So today I went out and it started like crap but it was 16F colder than my 56F vid and it was cranking a lot slower (battery is corroded). It coughed and stuttered but started, the 56F vid coughed once and started but had cranked with no hit for a few seconds. I believe batteries that are charged would show today's start to be the same as the 56F start (it cranks slowww). So whatever they did set it anywhere >20* :banghead: Idiots.

I don't know whats up with youtube. :banghead: Here's the other nonworking video. It says they are processing but "are taking longer than usual and have been queued". http://youtu.be/9-C4a1TQQb4

Alright so I have never seen the actual visual effects of different static timing degrees on these trucks to any accurate degree other than word of mouth so I did it myself at 0* then at 20*. I thought I was at 2* ATDC a year or 2 ago but apparently I was wrong. All of this will go to show that accurate info can make a world of difference. The 0* video is done and the 20* one will be done in a few hours. The 0* one tells a lot of the story though. Though now I question how CR's can run at timings after TDC. As the video shows, it gets better as it warms up, so I'm thinking CR's retard more as the engine temp allows, but still, how can they pull off 5*ATDC! One thing that was interesting was that every single number was identical, though idle speed seemed a few revs lower (5-10) with the 20* timing when it was at the same 140F as when I noted the RPM at 0* at the same temp. That is significant because idle speed is set with the idle screw so it is giving it the exact same fueling in both cases, nothing electronic to do any magic. At this point I can change the timing in about 20 minutes... I have a dead nuts TDC mark and if timing hasn't slipped then I can reference the last point to advance or retard however far I want. I just want to know how far I can advance it before you think I will see negative effects such as what I experienced as I went up in RPM's with 0*. I want to find the advanced timing's lower RPM limit... When will it start to run like crap.. When this is done, I will confirm the timing and confirm the TDC mark again, using a different valve. That way I will know if anything slipped in the process (timing gear) or if somehow the TDC was off. I did measure 14.2* as where I set it last time, which is basically where I set it last time (I aimed for 14.5) so the TDC mark should be pretty spot on, but I want to make sure. This begs a lot of questions that I am too involved in other things to think about right now. Why did the RPM-to-roughness go up as the engine block temp increased at 0*? Why did it run rough at 0* at those RPM's?, why didn't it just smoke more and be less efficient but do it smoothly? HmmmmmmThis might still be processing so refresh it later if it is.. http://youtu.be/i4QhHmAjUpI I'll get the other one up when it's done uploading.

They do need a fancy charger. They also have a weird discharge, seemingly at 100% and then falling on their face. So when your scooter starts slowing down, you'll be lucky to get much farther. It will be the same speed up until that point. As with any other batteries, they do wear out. The cordless drills everyone uses are li-ion and eventually they start lasting only 10 minutes at a time. They have their benefits and drawbacks. They sure charge a lot faster. There are some huge articles on google about them. Well heres one of them http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

You put a check valve (1 way valve) on all the little holes exhausting the pressure. Then it blows out but doesn't allow anything in. Unless you were talking about condensation.

Check Valve

I wonder if there is too much voltage drop or something, causing the pump to fall behind at WOT.

I already looked into the air start thing maybe a year ago. It would be a lot better on my ford since I could hook the air compressor in the garage up to it as it sits there trying to start for the usual 2 minutes The chance of an EMP just floating by our radar though......I'm not seeing it. Though I could see them lighting one off above Mike since not many people live there and they need a testing area

My 7.3 actually vents into the intake Yes it looks like just what you could imagine in there. Couldn't you guys just get one of those little K&N looking filters that you put on the valve cover? I've seen 12V's with them.

Being your first diesel, I'll fill you in on some more you might not understand. All fuels (diesel/gasoline) have what is known as flash points and autoignition points. A flash point is the temperature where the fuel is able to ignite by an open flame (or spark). It is mainly due to the vapor given off by the fuel, which is why gasoline vapor will ignite if you light it in some form. Gasoline engines actually take in this vapor, which is fed from the fumes of the constantly replenished bowl in the carburetor. As long as there is fuel, there will be vapors coming off it. The same goes for propane, it is the vapor you are burning, not the liquid. In propanes instance, it is boiling into a gas and you are burning that gas. The flash point of Gasoline is -45*F. The flash point of diesel is 144*F. So as long as gasoline is over -45, it is giving off ignitable fumes, which does mean that under that temp, it becomes hard to start (so in alaska or something they have to use block heaters on their gas engines sometimes). Once the engine is warmed up, some of that heat gets absorbed by the fuel so then it isn't really an issue. But this means that if diesel was warmed up to 144, it would ignite if you put a flame to it. The other thing was autoignition temperature. This is the temperature where the fuel will just blow up due to heat alone (no outside source of ignition such as an open flame or spark). Gasolines autoignition temp is actually 536*F and diesel is 410*F. This means without a spark plug, you would have to heat the gasoline up to 536 before it would blow up. Diesels only need to reach 410*. Maybe you are seeing the connection between terms. Gasoline engines rely on the fuels flash point to set it off with a spark plug. Diesels however, have no spark plug and rely solely on the heat produced during the compression stroke. When the piston goes up really fast, the air is compressed and it gets VERY hot in the process. Hot enough to get over 410F and ignite the diesel when it shoots in. But, therein lies the problem. On colddd days, the heat from compression sometimes doesn't get the fuel to that 410* point, so it doesn't ignite. A combination of things contribute to this. On a 0*F morning, the oil is thick, the engine is cold and contracted so things are tighter (more friction), and this contributes to a slower cranking speed. The piston and cylinder walls are also freezing. The heat produced by compression is absorbed by the piston and cylinder walls, further hindering the ability to reach the 410* point. Eventually the heat generated from cranking the engine absorbs into the pistons/cylinder walls enough that the 410* point is eventually able to be reached, and the engine starts. So, the diesel world has created methods to help the engine out on these cold days, mostly by heating the air. You must recall that on these cold days, the engine is sucking in that same 0* air and trying to get it over 410*. So if you heat that incoming air, then it has a much better chance of reaching 410* quicker. The cummins engine does this with a grid heater which gets very hot (500*F). When you turn the key on, it is turning the grid heaters on, you are waiting for them to get hot. They are electrical so just like an electric space heater, they take a little but to warm up. The wait to start light is telling you they are on and warming up. The colder it gets the longer they run. After you start the truck, they continue to cycle on and off for a few minutes to keep the incoming air nice and toasty until the engine gets warm enough to heat the air on it's own. When I mention 410F I mean the fuel has to get to that temp, so the air has to be even hotter. I have a calculation somewhere that determines the temp it gets based on RPM. I think it was around 700-900F idling.If you don't use the grid heater (lets say you unplug them), then you won't really notice anything until it gets under 20-30*, then you will start noticing it takes a few more cranks than usual. At 0* it will probably take 5 seconds of cranking, possibly more, to start. A worn out engine will take longer since the compression isn't as high as it used to be. If you look on youtube you will see guys at 20F (usually in power strokes and duramaxs ) who spend 30 seconds starting their trucks and then revving the crap out of them to keep them running. Those are worn out like no other. The trick is to ALWAYS use the grid heaters any time the engine is under 30*, unless you have just driven it and the engine is already warm so I am talking the BLOCK itself. Then let it idle for 30 seconds, then slowly take off, be nice to it until the engine temp has got to at least 140F, then do whatever you want. Idling tends to just make the engine run longer at a colder temperature since idling doesn't really produce much heat. That is why you let it idle for 30 seconds on those cold days and then slowly take off. Mike (mopar1973man) has things to remedy this. Here is a video I made of the grid heaters in action. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=i5CZJcyyZeg Does that help? I can write more if you want

Alright I'm gonna dispell all these theories (since nobody has any proof) on what exactly timing does. I will set my truck at 0-10-20* and record EGT's, boost, everything at a set speed at operating temp on the same road same everything. I will get recordings of what each sounds like since they do each sound different. I don't remember there being that big of a difference between them but I cannot exactly prove all this since I have no movie of each one. I do know that pulling a trailer at 2000RPM raised EGT's 100-200F but this was at 2* ATDC if I did everything right. The doing everything right thing is what I question (before I knew about spill timing). I know it was way retarded but I am not sure on the exact degree, so this time now that I know how to do it all I will get info.

Well for starters Rogan, the fuel plate, starwheel, etc. have nothing to do with efficiency. They don't even do anything unless you are stepping on it. If it starts fine then timing isn't an issue. If it doesn't completely fall on it's face up high then it isn't an issue as well. Overly retarded makes it start in an instant, overly advanced makes it start like crap. You can set your valves and clean the injectors but unless it's chugging out of the valves or missing from a crappy injector, I'm really not seeing THAT big of a MPG drop. Do you have an EGT and boost gauge and some numbers you can share? As for rancherman, from everything I have read, the tolerance of error is about 1-2*. However, I think I've read about the tab in the pump sliding around, rarely though. I use the valve drop method to find tdc and spill timing to set mine as well. It's easy and dead nuts. But, I believe for the most part the pin inside the pump is plenty accurate. You're not gonna notice a degree here or there.

List all of the things you have noticed about it in comparison to your other 12V. I mean ANYTHING. Does it take 1ms longer to start, does it smoke, does it..... 12mpg unloaded is absolutely horrible so if the problem exists within the engine then it would be pretty obvious. Timing would be wayyyyy off. My timing has been from +2* to -20* and I didn't notice but a few mpg difference. Symptoms would get us started though.

I thought you said it was the auto that was causing all of this..?

Alright from all the things he has mentioned this is what I can gather. Some percentage grades are guesstimates... Based on that, things don't look too out of whack. However, I ran across the piston type thing and you can do something with the injector washer thickness to fix this though I'll have to research it more. Some of your numbers seem on the high side but you didn't give us a lot of information most times. If you could get a couple more samples that fill out each segment of that chart then it would help a lot. Basically some things look fine like the 70mph things look 100% fine but other things *could* be fine if I had more info to go on. What gear it was in etc. There really is a big different between 2nd gear letting it scream and 3rd gear letting it lug.

Yes yes I've been starring at my intercooler thing ever since I typed it. Still have thoughts on it though. I went through the whole thread again and your quote left out the 1200RPM deal on my quote and you said "guessing 50-55mph" which made me assume my quote was at 55 (I never do anything at 50) So yes it correlates to 35mph, 550F, 2psi So there you have it. Thing is, his videos show 900F going from 35-45, which I just realized as well so he was accelerating which will really get the EGT going, then now he is towing and is at 800-900, but theres just too many different things going on here. I will read the whole thread and put together a cumulative chart of what he has said over the course of the thread. I can't keep track anymore and the auto tranny being unlocked for some readings and locked for others makes it even worse.