ISX

Update to this. Here is a video I made. I have it on another forum too and that's why I said what I did, I know you guys are used to me doing all this crap

I can see what the issue is with what.people call a CAI. You are correct on all your thoughts. People who ditch the stock box for a BHAF are now sucking in warmer air, definitely not a cold air intake. I think the origin began with rice burners putting pvc pipe up to a void in the engine compartment that happens to be on the front end in a spot that cold air blows directly on it. On our trucks there is a space like that between the headlight and radiator. It is small but you can see what they are trying to aim for. Most cars these days come stock with true CAI's. They have a pipe run straight to somewhere on the front that inconspicuously draws cold air and even has a RAM air effect. My moms camry has this, stock. Now drawing from the fender isn't exactly a CAI. The fender can get slightly warmed up and heat the air or the fender could be drawing air from a hot source. This would all be negligable heat vs. a true CAI. On our trucks, it is pointless. I have a sensor on my BHAF and the most I see is 20F over ambient going uphill with a trailer, most times it is 0-10* difference. That little difference is quickly diminished by the turbo compressing/heating the air. Then the intercooler takes it back down to ambient. Nothing is gained from a CAI in the end. Scientifically, colder air in and hotter air out is the key to efficiency. I didn't run a winter front at 10* and the mpgs were the same but the power was definitely higher. It is the intercooler that does all the magic, not the intake. The intake might matter if it was 50* or more than the ambient, and even then I have doubts, the intercooler does its job very well.

I thought I always read that people had junk vp's laying around. I was gonna ride today but I am not going to try and ride soaking wet in 40f weather lol. Which means I'm gonna spend all day cutting this thing apart. Maybe ill post some vids of what I'm doing throughout the day.

I can't believe how some parts of the thing are completely unheard of concerning pics. I have searched for rack and come up with absolutely nothing, which is why everyone thinks it's a gear, it's not. I searched for plunger and all you will ever find is the barrel. The entire thing above the cam comes out (all of that is considered the plunger assembly I assume), this is the reason for the 6 holes on the bottom of the pump. You take the cam out then you can pull the plunger assembly out, though it might be a little more involved than that. The rack will tie into it on the other side. I did find some good cutaway pics while searching around. Nothing of the rack of course.. But they all fall short because a picture does not show operation. The good thing is that the governor doesn't seem to be implemented into the housing very much so I an cut away everything and see every part of it in operation.

I said it once long ago and haven't mentioned it since. The creek Mike uses is not the same as the creek behind my house, or well water, or city water, or the pond out back... Just because it has worked for him doesn't mean I think it's right for people to chance it, distilled removes all doubt.

I picked up a scrap P7100 a while back and just got around to destroying it to see how it all worked. One side done, need to flip it over and do the rack side, then widdle it a little more to see everything better, then work on the governor portion. I don't want it to be apart enough for it to not operate, as in parts falling out.. There is a cut away view of a P7100 floating around that everyone has seen but I want to see how it works as in operation. I will make a video of it all and show how everything works together. The pump side is pretty straight forward, it's the governor side I really want to see in operation. The theory of the governor is simplistic as well but if you look inside at the governor on these pumps you don't exactly see anything simplistic. Kinda like saying an engine works by injecting fuel and igniting it, yet pop the hood of a new car and explain where the simplicity takes place and what everything else is for.. Without further delay, here's what I got so far.

Mike uses creek water, not city water..

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2125-Avatar-Signature-How-To Forgot I made that writeup, just made a video of it. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJYjmwfor0A

All you gotta do is type a word you want to link people to, like ebay. Then click and hold the mouse across the word, highlighting it. Then out of all the buttons you see above the typing area when you are replying, there is one that has earth with a video icon. Ehh I'll make this easier. VIDEO! http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIhwidkjotk

I always open them with windows movie maker, then just save "for computer". I can hardly tell a difference and it cuts the size in half.

I buy everything online. Sometimes you can get free shipping, that along with no taxes is a no brainer. Even with shipping, not having to pay taxes makes up for it and its at my door so no trip to town. If its under $50 on tigerdirect, then it will cost twice as much at staples after taxes, driving, and their gouging.

I got one of these http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7030575&CatId=1624 I know it costs more but from what I can tell it's the cummins of drives. I haven't had any issues with it, seems very well made. I have a closet full of cheap drives so I figured 1 good drive is cheaper than several crap drives.

Same here, newegg sends me nothing but DOA returns, and I do mean nothing but...and I've given them severalll chances. Tigerdirect has sent me nothing but pristine new stuff.

Pay no attention to them. The only reason they are going fast is to make you look slow and act like they are king of the road. I know cause I used to do it. I still do it sometimes. If you do 90, I'll do 95.. It's pointless. We are human though and strive for an adrenaline rush. I have noticed it is a HUGE mind game. I get more of a rush out of my jeep when I floor it than the dodge, even though its much slower. It just seems to be trying a lot harder so it seems like you are that much closer to the limit of it blowing up whereas the dodge is just effortlessly flying. The cummins has way too much power, nobody needs to be getting up to speed as fast as it is capable of. I know a stock 2001 duramax I used to drive at a company had tons of power, it could pull anything, it sounded incredibly smooth, but it was the slowest thing ever. It might have taken 10 seconds to get to 60, however, with any load on it, it would still take 10 seconds to get to 60. That's how it should be. There is no reason to have a truck that can beat a camaro. It's nice to be able to when getting on interstates but geez, you can't make an exception for something like that when humanity will take advantage of that in a heartbeat. Uhhh ok the original advice, I get sidetracked. Ignore those speeders and let them do what they want. If they rearend you, it's their fault, everyone knows that. I'll whack my mirrors up so I don't even see them, crank up the radio and let them stew behind me as I continue driving however slow I want with complete satisfaction and without any care of their thoughts. I am courteous though, I drive at least the speed limit on a 2 lane or busy 4 lane (sometimes slower on a lonely 4 lane) and I am consistent, as in I am not one of those people who speed up when there is a chance to pass then slow down when you can't pass. This whole decade of diesel performance stuff is just a marketing thing the way I see it. It's like turning a cruise ship into a speed boat. I know it's possible with enough engine power but people take advantage of it. That is the entire key to it all, people take advantage. Sure you can pull your boat better with this chip, but most people don't even own a boat and will use it to race people. I was not in the diesel realm until I was 15 which wasn't exactly that long ago so I am not sure about this but I think the electronic thing is where it all started. You couldn't market stuff for a 12 valve easily because it meant a lot of labor was involved, but a 24V being plug it in and instant power, there was a huge market potential for a free 300TQ at the push of a button, but, people took advantage..... Why do I even post when I go all over the place with topics :banghead:

You probably haven't stumbled across the articles yet. Top of the page you see a "Mopar Articles" link. There you will find a lot of stuff you might wonder about. If you can't find it, don't want to look for it, anything, we are here to help Here is a thing on 2 stroke http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/63-adding-2-cycle-oil-to-diesel-fuel Basically the 24 valve trucks need some extra lube to stay happy.. Welcome to the site as well.

I gotta research this stuff more. I am researching at lunch time and the few hours I have after work lately, worked like 18 days straight now, not that it really matters because I know a lot of you work for much longer durations, but I like my time off so I can learn more stuff lol. I have yet to see actual proof of anything, only theories. I reiterated all the theories into one right up. Mike doesn't have actual proof either. It just kills me that I don't have equipment to test everything I want. My dream in life would be to have each version of cummins (VE, P7100, VP44, CR) all in a row acting as generators. They would all have the same ECM and/or PCM as was in our trucks, this way everything is equal. I know a CR generator would probably be tuned different. Then I would have a load that I could vary, be it a grid of heating coils or something that would supply the power grid to pay me back for testing (I like that idea). Then I could really see the effects. A lot of the trouble with trucks is setting up something. The engine is in a truck for one, I have made my truck as easy as possible to work with but it still has it's limits. The engine also doesn't have a reputable load. A generator with a known resistance heating coil would always be the same load, so all engines would have an equal load and testing for comparisons would be very accurate. I could also test different products and whatnot with an engine dyno. It would be a full blown engine testing setup.. But until then, I can only assume.

I'm using valvoline premium blue, not the premium blue extreme (synthetic). I've been down the synthetic road.. The price far outweighs the benefits. Only benefit was maybe starting a little easier and oil pressure a little sooner. I can live without that.

After much research, I have the results. The winner is, starting for 30 seconds and driving off. The basic answer is that load = wear and tear. When you get in and start it and go (after 30 seconds or so, since this was a 0F startup..), it might be up around 550-600F at 55mph but that isn't exactly an indicator of load. If you have a scan gauge on a 24V, you can see percentage of load. I'm guessing the load of a cold engine at 55mph is maybe 5-10%. Though there is a load which is some wear, you are on your way to the destination as well as warming up the engine, so it is the best of both worlds. A cold engine having tighter tolerances wears more, so warming it up while driving saves you on fuel and gives the engine a slight load to get it warming up faster. Idling is the second best. It isn't warming up because there isn't a load, but there isn't the wear of a load either. It is just kinda bumping along wasting time, but gets hot eventually, after a half hour or something, it really generates no heat but the only real wear is from the tight tolerances of the engine. It is a waste of time to let it just sit there and idle. It will warm up eventually but yeah, from a wear and efficiency of your time and fuel aspect, it isn't #1..Idling with the exhaust brake is 3rd worst. It puts a load on the engine causing wear, but does so twice, during the power stroke since it has to fuel harder because of the resistance of the E brake on other cylinders, and the exhaust stroke because of the resistance of the exhaust. I'll explain this later. It does heat the engine up faster than idling, but you still are sitting there, wasting time and money, going nowhere. High idle exhaust brake is worse yet, heats up slightly faster but with higher load factors meaning more wear. 4th worst is 3 cylinder high idle. From Mike's EGT and Load tables, it shows an incredible load on the engine. However this is only on 3 cylinders, wearing them out more than the other 3, potentially causing differences in compression between those 3 and the other 3 cylinders. It is the same load as just driving off, maybe more even. The difference is that you are wearing 3 cylinders more than the other 3, and you still have to drive to your destination, causing even more wear. Last but not least, 3 cyl idle and exhaust brake. You have a LOT more load than driving off and the exhaust brake loads the cylinders twice. This causes even more uneven wear between the powered 3 and the dead 3. The 3 dead cylinders are also staying colder longer. So, WHY you might ask. The answer is side loading. In a perfect world, the piston would have a connecting rod that was perfectly straight and delivered power as such. Being on earth, we have a connecting rod that follows the radius of the crankshaft. This means that the only "perfect" times are when the piston is at absolute TDC or BDC. At all other times, the pistons are at an angle to a connecting rod. If you ever hold a connecting rod with the piston above it, it will fall to one side or the other depending on the angle. The same thing happens in the engine. The combustion event causes the piston to fall to one side or another, but the rings resist. This causes one side to wear more than the other sides. Pistons are made ovular on new engines to counter this. The bore is a perfect circle but the piston has to break in and since wear is going to happen during this period, they make them ovular so that the side load of the piston will wear them back down to a perfect circle. Any load on the engine adds to the side load or "wear" of the piston rings. This is why more load = more wear. An exhaust brake adds a load to the exhaust stroke which is the opposite angle of the power stroke so it would wear the other side of the piston. Now, this isn't really something to worry about. Caj has a load on his engine the entire time and apparently it didn't wear out enough to stop driving it after a million miles lol. Though he is also in a warm climate so who knows. I have no information on how much wear each thing would cause, but that is the order it would be in for this thread. It was based on wear and just common sense, as in if your not warming it up, then whats the point. I'm all ears to any and all opinions, facts, counterattacks on me lol. I researched this a lot but that doesn't mean everything is perfectly accurate, but it is to my knowledge so far.

I happened to have some gnats in here one time and after smashing that "bug" on the monitor at least 5 times it finally burned in that it was his signature.

Yeah you can also take the reciprocal of 128 which is 0.0078125 and now it becomes a multiplication problem. 0.0078125 x 32 gallons = 0.25 gallons, to convert to oz.: 0.25 x 128 = 32 oz. or 1 quart. You can find reciprocals by putting a 1 over it, as in 1/128. Normally a regular number such as 5 is actually 5 over 1 or 5 divided by 1, which is still 5, so the reciprocal is the opposite, or 1 over 5, which is 0.2. It allows you to turn division problems into multiplication which most people find easier since multiplication has no order. As in, 5 x 1 = 1 x 5, but 1/5 does not equal 5/1. If you forget to punch one number in first, multiplication doesn't care. The easiest way to think of it is like 10/2, we know that is 5. But what if you want to multiply it instead of divide.... Well 10 is the numerator (top of the fraction) and 2 is the denominator (bottom). You can break the 2 apart into 10/1 (which is of course just 10) and 1/2 or 0.5. When you break them apart like that, you multiply the two instead. So 10/1 x 1/2 = 10 x 0.5 = 5. Not sure why I wanted to explain that to you guys but you got me going and I couldn't stop

I didn't know you could get steering wheel audio buttons. Nevertheless, I can't see paying over 10k for a "truck". To me it's like buying a dirt bike. You didn't buy it for show, you bought it to use it. I know theres guys on here that bought their trucks new, but I believe they did it to get rid of all doubts about what the previous owner did to it, not because they wanted a show truck. I realize it is nice to have a good looking truck, but having to park at the end of parking lots, taking up 4 spots, polishing the wheels 10 times a week, and everything else that goes along with it, just seems like a waste of time with a truck. If I got a corvette, I would be polishing the inside of the exhaust. I polish the exhaust on my dirt bike too, but I know it will only last so long, I do it out of having some spare time and figure why not get all the mud off it. It has scratches all over it and each scratch tells a story. If something rips completely off, then I will replace it, knowing it will be scratched. There is a kid that rides with me that does think of his bike as a show bike, it's pathetic, won't get anywhere near a tree or mud or anything. When he wrecks, he could care less about the bike landing on him and bruising him really good, he was going nuts over the small dent in the exhaust. Same with a truck, if it snows, lock it in 4wd, slide off into the ditch, drive back out and never look back. Just don't do it to the point that it rolls over in the ditch lol. Oh and people might be buying that truck as to have a 2nd gen with no doubts of what the owner did because it has only 20k miles. Well it has a ball in the bed and an automatic tranny...who knows what he did with it in the desert heat of las vegas at 90mph with 20k lbs in tow. I wouldn't buy it, I wouldn't even buy a 12 valve if it was over $15k. I love modding it and there is no way I would want the stock look under the hood, I think its horrendous.

Yes, both methods are correct. There's always 10 different ways to do anything in life, that was 2 of them lol.

Ratios work by "parts". Meaning 300 parts fuel to every 1 part oil. One really easy way is to just divide the amount of fuel by the ratio to get how much oil it needs. I will use an easy example here. 128:1 just happens to be 1 oz to 1 gallon of fuel because 128 oz. is actually the same as 1 gallon. So for every gallon, you use 1 oz. Since there are 4 quarts in a gallon, you can take 128/4 and get 32 oz, so 1 quart is 32 oz. Using what I said earlier in this paragraph, you just take 32 gallons of fuel divided by 128 and you will get 0.25, meaning 1/4 of 128 oz, which is 32, which is 1 quart. If you got a calculator, take the gallons of fuel you filled up with, say 30 gallons, multiply that by 128 to convert it to oz., then divide that by your ratio to get the exact amount of oil you need in oz. So 30 x 128 = 3840, 3840/300 (as in the original 300 ratio) = 12.8 oz. It's really easy once you realize 128 oz is equal to 1 gallon. Yesterday at work the 2 stroke oil bottle for the cement saw said 50:1, 3 oz. It also said 40:1, 3 oz. I whipped out the calculator since uh, how can you have the same amount of oil and different ratios... Simply take 128/50 and you get 2.56 oz. which is per gallon since I used 128 oz. (1 gallon). Then I took 128/40 and got 3.2 oz per gallon. So they rounded. I guess they figured the average person aiming for 50:1 will spill a little and the average person doing 40:1 will go over a little

Now I know what I want, I'd even be content with just the belt lol. That is truly incredible.

You would be surprised how much weight a tire can actually carry. I'm not saying you should go over the rating, but I have been doing contract work in a wheel factory for months now and work right next to the wheel testing machines. They air E rated tires up to 120psi and put 5000lbs on them and go 55mph for a couple days. Sometimes the tire blows, which I have heard 3 times now and it is loud as hell, even with them being inside acoustic deadening cinderblocks. These are all brand new tires of course, but it just shows that they can go through a lot more than most people might think. They ran a 35" toyo mud tire the other day and strained it so much that it blew a hole in the sidewall. They said they are going to get a machine for semi truck tires which they say puts 80,000lbs on just 1 tire I don't wanna be around when it blows.