ISX

I'm pretty sure the camper option just added a leaf spring or 2 in back, maybe it just added those helper leaf springs that don't hit anything until you put a good load on the truck. Not sure on the snow plow prep things.

I am trying to figure out the original problem of bad mileage, that is why I ask about the tranny as an auto could have a bad converter or something. The lines could be the starting issue but I am not sure if they could be the mpg culprit. Supposedly what could happen is enough air bubbles form to where there is some cavitation in the fuel system and the air in the system creates injection issues which delay the timing, making it more retarded. Also causes some other issues and can even make the truck go into a run away condition. This is all "supposed" speaking as I read about this on a huge article on CF. I have done many things to my truck and have never seen anything touch my mileage so I never know what to think of people with mileage problems other than something like a weak overflow valve which I would think would cause hard starting since it isn't hardly getting any fuel into the plungers because of the period of time it has to go into the plungers before they are sealed off. At a low fuel pressure there wouldn't be as much fuel getting into them. When the engine is cold it takes more fuel to keep it/get it running. I have no way to test this theory unless I had a variable electric fuel pump but it makes sense to me.

What the hell is she doing? I thought the guy put that thing on her leg so now I'm clueless. It is hilarious though

Check the timing since they like to slip. Check all the filters. Check the fuel pressure as he might have a bad overflow valve. How does it start on a cold morning? Is it an auto tranny?

Wrap the wires around a small rod then pull the rod out. Now you have a wire coil, zip tie it a little so it doesn't dangle and now when they yank on it, it will have plenty of slack. Only bad part is if they pull it way out it will uncoil, but better than damaged wiring.

Hmm, well I know they told me never to go by color either. As long as it is the same type as before is all that matters.

Your not supposed to mix different types of coolants so as long as you drained it all and filled back up with only that stuff then you should be fine.The green is ethylene glycol and the orange is propylene glycol, I think. They are different formulas and can't be mixed.

So at 999,999, your odometer breaks, great At least now you can say you have done something not many people can, on Easter too! I couldn't do it but I commend you for doing it. Nice work!

I was actually looking forward to the pic of a mile after that. What's it say now?

Got pics already http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3312-Tappet-Cover-Unveiled?highlight=tappet Any other pics would work as well, don't know if you can do better than him since the engine was out A writeup would be very nice!

149,914 - 1,126 = 148,788 Members who do not know his history and would probably fall for it.

Start watching at 2:00, that's when I take the damper off. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmlPR4eYXYc&feature=player_embedded In other words, yes it's just 4 bolts and it's off. Make sure you loosen the RPM sensor so you don't somehow damage it, though you should pull the damper straight off and try not to jar it from side to side too much. I use simple green to clean it, anything like that. It is one piece but theoretically it is two, but they are pressed together so it comes off as one piece (as I show in the video). I don't know if you can get it off with the fan on (since I never tried it) but I think you can do it but you will probably have to do everything from under the truck. When you loosen the bolts, just put the truck in 5th gear as that will keep the engine from turning, if it is an auto then hmm. --- Update to the previous post... Geeez, I got competition these days I guess I need to step it up a notch They are 15mm bolts and are torqued to 92 ft/lbs. The RPM sensor has a 0.049-0.051" gap.

Got it done today. Only the water temp gauge, RPM, A/C compressor don't work. I put 15 miles on it and I really can't tell a difference with that hole in the wastegate. I think my wastegate actuator is a little stuck because I was hitting 45psi or so. I think my 35psi gauge tachs out around 40-45 and I was still going when it just stopped so it might have hit 50 for all I know. I will check the actuator out and see what the deal is. I have a pressure relief setup that lets the wastegate see pressure and that little thing that does it is what is sticking. I have a 12V air solenoid that I want to make work one of these days. The turbo does have a little more whistle to it, though I haven't heard it in months so maybe thats why it sounds louder.

Theres another post somewhere on the forum where Caj said he let it idle overnight a lot. So I'm betting into the 20,000 range.

Alright I fixed it. That changed the prices a lot

I was curious so I started putting a spreadsheet together, figured I would show you guys what I came up with. I downloaded the U.S. diesel prices and have them for every month back to 1994, I averaged from January 2001 to now and came to that price. The average MPG and MPH are what I have gathered from reading Caj's posts and what Mike has told me. If you look at the total fuel cost and add up truck cost/repairs/maintenance (oil changes), I am betting he has $250k in it

I would start it and drive it 10 miles once every 2-3 months. Mine has been sitting for that long and the only thing that happens is condensation forms on everything because weather will change but that engine block takes a long time to change with the weather. With condensation comes surface rust on pulleys and such. Drive it for 10 miles and the belt wears it all back off. I just wonder if the same thing happens inside the engine. I have my doubts since there is oil on everything but starting it every couple months will keep that film of oil on stuff to keep the water from touching bare metal. As for the batteries, you either take them out or get a float charger.

The more I think about this the more I think you should just respectfully tell them you have nothing to say. People who give them a hard time is the same as people who give a walmart cashier a hard time, they both are trying to put bread on the table and they don't need people making things difficult, same with any other job. I don't know how people come to want to be reporters but its inevitable so respect their job title as someone respects yours. If it weren't for reporters, we would know absolutely nothing about government affairs, current events, etc. Reporters get all the answers to the questions that we didn't have time or the will to go out and get on our own. Then there is always the Dorkweed approach I think it's already apparent that reporters are never supposed to be anywhere and just seem to let themselves in anywhere. Don't give them a reason to come and they won't come. I know thats sometimes inevitable as well. As for Jahovas witnesses, I think they are kinda funny. The last/first one that came here a month ago asked what we were and well we don't go to church anymore but we used to be christians to which he said "Oh, I remember being a christian, now I remember why I switched". I coulda made a big deal about it, not that I really cared but any time you do make a deal about something or hassle them or anything like that, you are basically doing what they wanted you to do, which is stealing your time. Say yes or no thank you or what-have-you and go back to work. If the girl scouts come over, make sure to buy the mint cookies from them, 2 boxes minimum. If you don't the news WILL be there because I will tell them your a girl scout cookie hater

I forgot all about this thread. Truck is still down but I got all the stuff to get it back on the road just a few hours ago so sometime this week it will be back up. I got some issues but I'm just gonna turn a blind eye for now, I need more time. But definitely will have a verdict on the turbo by the end of the week.

This should help you out. Skip to 1:30. Basically you just take the snapring thing off the wastegate arm (first thing I did in the video) then you just take those 3 bolts out (yours won't be allenhead). Make sure and use a lot of penetrating oil on those bolts first, I think those bolts came out fine and it's the exhaust housing cover bolts that were all tweaked and broke off so you shouldn't have any problem, but penetrating oil ensures it. There are spacers on all the bolts so make sure you know where they went, take a quick pic of it if you have to (otherwise, I got a million pics of it). http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=38_QeCreY3g

That was a 1987-1994 7.3 IDI thing. The cylinder walls were too thin so they cavitated easily. I don't think it was an issue on the 1994-1997 or 1999-2003 "powerstroke" 7.3's. It isn't a bad idea to add some if you want but nothing bad is going to happen if you don't, the cummins doesn't have cavitation issues.

Actually propane's autoignition temp is almost twice as high as diesel's. You just don't want a ton of propane going in and filling up the bottom of the intercooler since it is heavier than air. If all that propane somehow receives a spark, kaboom. This is why it is safer to install it in the intake horn, just remember that you will also have to overcome boost pressure, so if you want 5psi of propane and you are building 10psi of boost, you would want 15psi of propane.

I am not sure about that. I don't know the weight distribution on mine but I am betting the back tires would calculate out to be in the 30's. I think there is a tire stance calculation that needs to be figured in, as in at say, 10psi, the tire would be very flat and wear very unevenly. I believe the only way to know for sure where the tire pressure needs to be is have a cross sectional weight scale thing on the part of the tire contacting the ground and get it to where there is equal weight distributed along the entire width of the tire. That would obviously require a million dollar machine, but I just think the way you did it has some flaws. There is also the fact that when cornering, a flatter tire is going to roll on the sidewall more. I can tell when mine get low because of this, therefore I keep the fronts at 80psi at all times. I still don't like the feeling and wish I had bigger wheels so I could cut down on the sidewall height. Try saving them all in xls too, I figured out not many people have excel 2010+ and xlsx is not very compatible with free spreadsheet programs.

12V's hardly monitor anything, technically they don't monitor anything at all. All there is sensorwise is oil pressure, water temp, intake temp, water in fuel, a/c high/low pressure sensors, battery temp sensor, hmm I think that's it. If any of those sensors are bad, it probably won't throw a code. I have disconnected just about all of them and never got a check engine light. Oil pressure disconnected shows no oil pressure and oil pressure light comes on. Water temp disconnected just shows really cold on the gauge. Battery temp disconnected changes nothing but supposedly it relates to charging voltage. Intake temp disconnected just makes the wait to start light blink constantly. Water in fuel disconnected does nothing. A/C sensors disconnected will do nothing, but a/c won't turn on. None of those throw a code.

Where's the Mexican version?