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I see what your doing. I think you will have a very hard time hitting the proper marks with a 50K pot. I think there is a code for too cold as well. I would just put it on a switch so you can revert back to normal IAT operation. As for the winter front thing, I think that needs more testing. It was like 10F when I got the same 27mpg as I got in summer and that was without a winter front. My truck has more power and is responsive as all get out. You put the winter front on AND set the fooler for 140F, you didn't try it without the winter front with the IAT at 140. I went 45mph for a week or so a month ago when it was freezing out, the EGT's were 300F the majority of the time. I got 25mpg (I think lugging the engine like that (outside the turbos range) made it a little less efficient, plus going so slow) which proves that even with cold EGT's, the engine is fine. I believe EGT is just one factor, internal combustion temps are another. If it were really 300F then the engine would not run since diesel has to be over 400F to combust. According to my calculations, at 0F IAT, the heat of compression with 17.9 CR and 16.3 CR (which both could be wrong as we know these numbers are thrown around) is only a 50F difference, which is 1000F and 950F. The combustion process is adiabatic (however thats spelled) which means it happens too fast for heat to be lost through the combustion walls or anything like that. I think some heat is still lost, but hardly. At 600RPM the piston is hitting TDC 10 times a second. Now think about how long it takes to heat a block of iron up with a torch.

You don't want a colder temp, you want hotter. But you can only go to 200F, over that I think it throws a code. Ideally you want a 5K POT, as you will be able to dial in the temp easily. 10K is ok, 20k would be tough. Mike is using a 50K and can barely hit the temp he wants because the temp he is shooting for is in the 2K range which is very hard to hit on something with a 50K range, but something with a 5K range would make the 2K window much bigger and easier to hit. I don't know what the ohm for 200F would be, but I am thinking 1.5K.

I thought the issue was the fuel filter, so even if your fuel is warm at the tank, the fuel filter is still gelled since it is still cold. Not sure on this though, never had any gelling problems. I think I would make sure you have a gelling issue and not something else. If it is in fact gelling, I would just find a good antigel. What are you going to do when you are away from home where the truck sits all day and re-gels..

The thing about this is that there is no "it looks better than I thought it would" to go along with it because I had absolutely no idea how it would look. Compared to the stock headlight wiring that is zip tied to the bottom of the radiator, I would say it is 100x better. I was going to run it through the crossmember that goes over the top of the radiator, but the goal is to make it easier to work on. By easier I mean easier to work on any part of it, not just some things. So the crossmember idea went out the window since taking the engine or intercooler or stuff like that out, would require removing the crossmember and I would have to completely dewire the headlights/turn signals. By running it down through that square tube that runs underneath the radiator instead, my problems are solved. I think this would be a lot easier if I had a wire labeler so I could just reconnect them. Right now I have to trace things back, but it's not too hard since everything is a different color. Another reason I am doing this is because stock wiring is junk. The splices and dices they got going on is insane. I have no doubts anymore as to why you always hear about grounding problems. I will keep you guys updated.

I decided to rewire the engine compartment a few weeks ago. I cut every wire in there and took every piece of black tape and ribbed sheathing off and have been left with nothing but wires. My plan is to put the PCM/Fuse Box/Grid Heater Relay on the hood, right on the back drivers side corner. I don't think there will be any issue with slamming the hood and everything getting shock absorption. I have some plans to absorb it a little anyways, though I don't think anything will happen. The initial plan was just to take the ribbed sheathing crap off in lieu of braided nylon sheathing, like what the cruise control has on it going to the throttle. I was going to put it on every single wire. After looking at it some more, I decided to redo everything, every part of routing it. By putting the pcm on the hood, I can get rid of the entire loom that runs along the top of the firewall. I starred at it some more and realized I can get rid of the entire loom that runs along the top of the engine next to the valve covers. There will be hardly any wires on it now and they will be hidden. I am going to use the fuse box for now, but I have plans on getting rid of that big piece of crap as well. This thing has taken me a long time because of how many wires there are and how to run them and where to run them and.... but I finally got one ran to the passenger side headlight lol. I have been working a lot so I don't have much time to work on this thing but I am going to aim for one connection a night now, be done by 2012

Welding cable is the best because the strands are so tiny. Electrons flow through wire on the very outside of the wire, so a solid wire has just the outside surface area and that is where the electricity is flowing and it isn't flowing as much through the core of the solid wire. When you have a bunch of strands of wire, the outer surface area starts to really add up, so you are able to flow more amps. Think of a 1" solid wire, and then think of only the outer 1/8" being usable, so all that area in the core is dead. Now you see how strands take advantage of that dead area by having many strands which equate to a ton of outer surface area. That example was really drawn out but you get the idea. It is also the easiest to bend, which is nice.

Our 12v's only need some 2 stroke oil for the lift pump, but even then I think it needs very little lube added (if any) to keep it happy. My lift pump ticks every now and then but I found out you can tear it apart and put some grease on the plunger and it is quiet as ever. You can add 2 stroke oil if you want, I do sometimes as well. Nothing wrong with more lube in the system, but that is basically the only benefit I see. It might give you better mpg's but I am not sure of this, I seem to get the same mileage irregardless. Here is Mike's writeup on 2 stroke oil. Your right foot is the only thing that changes MPG's on a 12v. Timing might effect it but messing with the fueling will not do a thing, it only allows you to get less mpg IF you decide to use the extra fuel. Going 70mph takes the same amount of fuel to go that fast so all messing with the plate will do is allow it to have more power should you choose to use it. My truck from completely stock to where it is now has got exactly the same mpg irregardless of how far from stock it is now. I drive very consistently so always get the same numbers. Add some info about what truck you have (3/4 ton/1 ton, 4wd/2wd, etc.) so we can tell you what you should expect. 18-19mpg of just in town driving sounds right. You should get your best MPG at 55mph or so.

I think I know a way to make it completely automatic.. All you would have to do is install it. It would also fix another problem with the grids running on a warm engine. I am sure you noticed if it is cold out and you go to a drive-thru and shut the truck off, it will run the grids when you restart. The grids would run like normal any time the engine is cold.

:hyper: I KNEW IT!!!! I get 0 difference from summer to winter and you were still not getting 100% MPG gain and you finally did, I knew there had to still be more to why you weren't getting it all back. Also proves wind is not that big of factor on an empty truck (yes I barely see a difference no matter what the wind) and proves that cold air is GOOD. I love driving in 0F or colder temps because my truck is simply a bat out of hell. CAI (cold air intake (for those who don't know)) is not worthless (at least I don't think so). The efficiency calculation I found said the air has to be as cold as possible intake and as high as possible out the exhaust. This does not mean run your exhaust brake to get the exhaust hotter, it has to do it on it's own. So the only way to do it on it's own is to reduce the intake temps and rely on just the heat of combustion.

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUYO-lJe36w

I just said this many posts ago. The element is 750 watts, which is 19.2 Ohms at 120V. If you are at 20.7 it is fine. You have to read the posts to get somewhere with this..

I have been thinking of that ever since John mentioned it after my post. I can see where a balanced compressor wheel can be imbalanced on the shaft if it isn't seated the same as in the balancing machine, which it surely won't be. I do find the compressor wheel to be so light (aluminum) that any imbalance in it wouldn't matter, I mean the shaft and turbine are all steel and very heavy in comparison. But I am probably wrong there too. I haven't had any issues but I suppose the "be safe than sorry" option would be to balance it. Thanks for pointing that out SASQCH. I throw what I know out there until proven wrong, which you constantly do to me lol but thats how I learn

I go to Bumper to Bumper, which is basically NAPA, they carry NAPA parts anyways. They have everything I can ever think of there. There are some specialty parts that they will go out of their way to get for me and they are always cheap. There is a NAPA at the other end of town and they are pretty good as well. Both of them are the only ones who carry the right fuel filter for my ford. I hate auto zone. Everyone in there needs directions to tie their shoes every morning. O reillys isn't too bad, but I don't think their parts are as good as NAPA stuff. There are parts with lifetime warranties from auto zone or other places that might never go out at all. It's not like their starters are made of plastic, spark plugs made with tin foil,... A lot of stuff will be fine.

I said this in this post so I shall say it again.

Actually, 19.2 Ohms is 750 watts. 20.7 works out to 695. So your element is fine. When you plug it in, it will sit there for a few seconds then you will hear it turn on. It isn't that loud so you can't hear it if there is any other noises around. If it were me, I would plug it in for an hour then feel the block right next to where the block heater goes into the block. It should be warm, if not, you got other issues going on. Where did you measure the resistance? At the prongs on the cord or at the prongs on the element? I would measure from the end of the cord, that way it tests the cord and the element. The ground and neutral (taller prong) should be 0 ohms. The neutral to the hot should be 19.2 (20.7 is close enough).

Here's his for sale page. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2184-High-Idle-Fooler-Set-Up-for-Sale!!

Guess I was thinking PR meant PS. So it is the Prist thats crap. Power service might be better then. Kerosene would be my first choice.

Forgot you were right next to me Yeah that night was cold. Even so, my fuel starts to gel around -8F (or so it seemed, truck was bucking and was not happy). That is without any antigel, so I would think any power service would have dropped it down to at least -20. Worthless crap. I have red diesel in a jar outside a window and even on that night, it still won't gel up, and it's months old. Maybe Kansas uses less additives.

I bet a guy who got kicked off the team wrote that :lol:Nevertheless, I have never watched a single superbowl or superbowl commercial (during the superbowl). I might watch one later after someone links me to it on youtube.

What do you have tapped into it? The panel on the side of the dash on the drivers side has tiny wires going to it. Why do you think the headlights on stock trucks don't work as good as they should. If you are wanting some kind of separate fuse block, then yes go straight to the battery as any other place will be too small. The only other place with a decent sized wire is the alternator connection. There is also the problem with having 500 wires all over the battery terminals which can be fixed easily. I would like to know what kind of load you have first.

How cold was it when it gelled up?

The only thing I can think of that might be different/harder is that its a 24V..hence, more electronics. The harness kinda sets back down right where it used to go, it is conformed to it it seemed. So the connectors were basically right next to where they went. Not hard when you only have a few connectors lol. If the 24V has more, to the point of confusion, just label them and take pictures. Even then, there are tons of 24V's on this forum that can help you out if you do somehow forget where one goes.Other than that, the rest is overly easy. One thing I figured out was I couldn't go up far enough to get out of the engine mounts, but you can actually take the mount bracket off the engine, just make sure you have the engine jacked up or nothing will be supporting it...

From what I can find, kerosene does not have a cloud or gel point, but only a freeze point. Therefore, it is like water. As for temps, Jet A (pure kerosene jet fuel) freezes around -50F. As far as lube, I actually found the HFRR on kerosene at one time and it was 663 I think. Mikes chart shows ULSD is 636. So kerosene isn't exactly paint thinner, but it still needs 2 stroke added, since it is slightly worse than ULSD. As for which bottle of power service, I thought the grey one wasn't even an antigel [*]Grey PS [*]White PS Most any antigel will work just fine, but no matter what you do to lower the cloud point, use 2 stroke oil! I haven't seen a single thing that lowers cloud point that doesn't also reduce lube, which is especially important in the winter when tolerances are tighter.

Basically, we have a lot of people just come in, sign up, and go straight to the download section. They see the limit and they leave, never to be heard from again. We are not a file sharing site, we are a site intended to help people by means of social interaction or documentation. Although documentation may solve your problem, there would be truckloads of people coming in and downloading it if it were that easy, and our bandwidth cannot support that.

I would be asking around the fuel stations for where a pump is. They are kinda rare but one station always seems to have it. Like ours is at a truck stop around back, just a big tank with an old pump on it. But yeah it was $4.40 while diesel was $3.20. If you have to buy it at the store in a fancy container I am betting it would cost a fortune.