ISX

Since it was 10F this morning and going to be the same or colder tomorrow morning I figured I will get some statistics on how well a winter front works. I want to get mileage and time as to how long it takes to hit 190F. I will do a constant 55mph for these tests and be on the road within a minute of starting. Today was without a winter front going straight into 20-30mph headwinds at 10F. Although synthetic oil seemed to not do anything at 20+F, you will notice that it cranks slower now that the conventional oil I am running starts to get really thick, you can even see how long it takes for it to get oil pressure. So synthetic does have it's place in the colder temps. My EGT's were around 680F at 55mph when the engine was still under 130F, this proves how thick oil and cold surfaces make an engine have to really work. On the return trip with the engine at 190 and still at 55mph, the EGT was around 400F. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvVo4QMXX4Y

The only thing they forgot was the magic sand I do need some of that seasonal air though

Well that's weird. Here is the back of my HX35. Same as the back of the HY. IIRC, mine had that elbow thing as an attachment.

You might test it a little more. I might have to stick mine in the floor to see, I have the temp gauge in the middle vent by the radio. Was that on recirculate? I get 100F over ambient if it is on regular vent, but on recirculate I get up around 160F. So you should be running a little hotter, I assume it was warmed up to 190.

Probably need all new seals. I spray mine with silicone spray to keep them all perfect. Another thing that nobody realizes is when they slam the living hell out of their doors they smash those seals and over time the door will have a bunch of play in it. I chew out every ford and chevy driver that does that in my truck as dodges actually have doors that shut, when I get in their trucks the door never shuts so I always end up opening it and slamming the hell out of it, and I notice they always have the seal issues...

Ever since I put that thermostat in it heats up just as fast as 24V's I have seen. I got to looking at it some more and that hose seems to route the same as the thermostat, so it would bleed all the air through it. It is only like a 3/16" hose.

He meant your trying to not see high egt's.. I think the HX will solve all your problems. With the way my truck is set up now, I hardly hit 1200, but it is just as fast (actually faster) as when I was blacking out interstates and hitting 1500, tuning is everything.

There is this hose and I think it bleeds everything. Could be wrong but it looks pretty convincing. I have had 2 thermostats in it before, both swayed like crazy from the get go. This one has been perfect from the start. I will never use anything different now. It was 30 yesterday morning when I tried it and it went straight up to 200, dropped to 195 and just went around 195-200 the whole time. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=9C_8sHWdzmA

I'm up! Uh I am gonna have to figure out how they do it myself. Basically you click on the cpuz window to make it active, then hold down alt while you hit printscreen. Then go to paint and paste it and save it as jpeg. Then put it on here.

That is for a 94'-02'. The 02 has nothing but the HVAC line, that big vacuum T has caps on everything else. I put all the options on it so if you don't have something, then ignore it, like I don't have any of that CAD crap..

Seeing as how the entire internet can't figure out how to use paintbrush, I took up the challenge and finally made everyone a vacuum diagram. Let me know what you think. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Charts/Vacuum%20Lines.jpg

I can see you lost a lot of sleep over this

Your right. His is a manual. The late 00' to 02' auto's had the HY. So a 98.5-early 00' auto would have the HX.

I said a horse foot fetish The interesting thing is I been out all morning and come in and my feet are all sweaty and I was wondering about it then see your thread lol. So I am going to say that because it is cold out, your feet form condensation. I washed my hands the other day in warm water and went outside and my hands were smoking.. this was when it was 20F, my hands were dry but just hot from the water. So if I were to have gloves on I would say it would have just collected and made me have sweaty hands. --- Update to the previous post... Found this too: The reason is thermoregulation. I'll assume you are wearing protective clothing to keep warm during these cold months. Once your body reaches a certain temperature whether it be outside or inside thermoregulation kicks in to get your body temp back to a safe and comfortable degree. A good way to lose heat is evaporation of sweat off your skin. Heat is better absorbed and released from certain areas of your body like your head, hands, and feet.

Jiggle pins? The stock one is a lot wider, it is just as wide in diameter as the whole housing so it barely comes out if rust forms. You put a gasket in that is just as wide and then the thermostat on top of it, then another biggg gasket, then the engine lift bracket. The new thermostat was not as wide. It did not sit on the machined edge on top of the gasket, it was about 1/4" smaller diameter. However, it fit perfectly inside of it on another surface, like it was meant to be there. The only thing was sealing it off. I couldnt use any gasket under it but I used that bigger gasket which by big I mean it was the same diameter as the housing, but was really thick so it would cover the edges of the new thermostat. So I just threw it on top and made it so the engine lift bracket would smash it a little, which is actually how it is supposed to be on the oem thermostat as well so it wasn't really rigged. Then I bolted it all up. Works like a charm.

Always gotta be difficult

No, they are part of the muffler bearing design which I left hooked up. I read that they were an intricate part of the entire principle of an "efficient diesel engine". I do need to repack them though.

I just fixed all that gauge swaying. Put in a new thermostat (this one) and now it is perfect. Before, it would go to 220 then drop to 150 and just keep doing that crap but closing the range, so then it would go to 215 and drop to 160...until it steadied around 190. Now this new thermostat isn't even for the cummins, it's for the 5.9 V8 gasser. I had to rig it a little to make it work. But now it heats up faster and goes to 200 and slowly goes down to 195 and just goes between that 195-200, none of this initial 220 then 150 BS. It works like the damn thing is supposed to! Now I boiled the other one and it was fine so I don't get why it was such a POS. There is something screwy going on with the cummins ones you buy but I can't understand what. So much nicer knowing it goes up to proper temp and holds rather than all the swaying which can't be good for the engine, kinda like dumping a bucket of cold water on a windshield that has been in the desert sun all day. Oh and that one is a superstat, so I am all for them now

To make it fair we should do one of those arithmetic benchmark things. I haven't messed with them in a while though so don't know if any are user friendly for us all.

http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/1.56-setup-en.exe Click the big purple "DOWNLOAD NOW" Install it then run it and the first thing you see is what we have been posting by printscreening it. Remember to uncheck the addon toolbars (ask.com) when you install.

Computer I chat on: And the laptop I run the rust of the world on:

Take that back! If my truck ever started like a 24V I would fill the crankcase with sand. I can't stand how they all start exactly the same no matter if it is 0 or 100F, and each truck starts identical to the next 24V. 12V's all start different depending on rust holes in the exhaust, idle setting, and everything else that gets out of adjustment or falls off. That is what makes each and every one special Mine has never even started the same twice, it's variable starting transducers kick in to make sure it never reiterates how it started before.

I'm going to assume it is a flatbed and assume it weighs 4-5k lbs when you were getting 11.6mpg. If that is the case, yes you should be getting around 14.

That youtube video was smoking because I advanced the timing.. It injects the fuel too early before enough heat is present so it doesn't burn the fuel very good and just blows it out as smoke.

Once it starts it will get all the cylinders up to temp pretty instantly and smooth out. If it stumbled every now and then after that, then something is wrong. Sensor might be dirty, might be a tiny air leak that is purging itself out..