ISX

I have heard about centrifuge filters but don't know much about them. Can you explain how they work and how you clean them and which one you have?

Yep, I never even thought about making them tighter until I got curious to why JL was running 8/18.

Found something neat out today. As you all may or may not know, I don't run a fan or anything. Obviously this poses a problem while idling. It takes about 10-15 min of idling to get it from 190 to 210. I am not sure why this has never crossed my mind since it is probably a well known fact but they say to run the heater when the engine is overheating. I got back today and let it idle with the heater on full blast. It never moved from 190, in fact it went down to 190 (was at 195) and stayed there for 10 minutes that I trial ran it. I have 2 temp gauges and they both stayed right there. That means if I idle, all I have to do is roll the windows down and put the heat on full blast and won't have a problem. Interesting how a little heater core can dissipate all the heat created by the engine at idle.

Yeah I am not seeing the problem with the first vid. Just about all the trucks look like that around here. They usually do it with older stuff but if you got the money then why not mud it in style. I know people who do the barb wire around the tire thing but that isn't exactly abuse when you can't see the barb wire half the time. Barb wire gets thrown around and you never know where it is till you run over it.

Axle needs to be changed for sure. NV4500 somehow gets changed every 20k. Full dino. The premium blue "extreme" is the synthetic version. --- Update to the previous post... You must go nuts when you see cummings

I don't pull anything but maybe 10 times a year up to 10k lb sometimes for a couple hundred miles. Other than that I drive slow and easy. This amsoil I have been changing every 25k with the ELF filter. I plan on going 10-15 with the premium blue.

So I changed the lash to 8 intake 15 exhaust. It still spools really good but not the jump I was expecting because it was a huge difference when I went from 10/20 to 8/18 so I thought 8/15 would be a big jump again on spoolup but I don't think it changed that much. I am thinking me cleaning the turbo and all the crap off of the turbine shaft must have gave it a big kick. I will say this though, it runs reallllllly smooth now. The power just rolls on perfectly, no points on the throttle that are more powerful than others, even down at lugging speeds. I might go back and set the intakes down to 6 and see what happens.

I run amsoil now, I see no point to it. I hate the crap I have to do to get it and the preferred customer stuff I have to go through to get it at a sane price. So I am stepping down to dino. Valvoline all the way around does sound like a good plan. If they got good oil then they should have good oil for axles and everything too I would think.

I assume you have that HY35. The HX will drop EGT's big time because it doesn't choke out so easily.

Now that I have money for once I am going to change out everything. I want to use the best there is. I am putting valvoline premium blue in the engine but for the trans I am debating redline/dodge dealer gold. For the axle I have no clue what is good. I am going to have to do an engine flush and change out the antifreeze and maybe drill a hole in that thermostat like I keep seeing. I will make a writeup on that since there is a question on flushing a 12V. So what do you guys think I should use? I do have one preference, it can't be amsoil

Just look under it and measure how long the tank is. I will go measure mine and if they are the same then you have a 35 gallon tank. My light comes on at 5-7 gallons also. The gauge itself is not accurate at all. I mean it is close but when my gauge stays at F for 200 miles, flies down to half, stays there for 300 miles, then slowly goes to 1/4 then flies to E like a bat out of hell, it shows how accurate it is. The low fuel light is accurate though so I just go by that.

Smokeythedodge has one for sale, painted red and everything.

Mine leak as well, even after changing the gaskets. Well mainly/only #6. Not sure what the deal is. I am thinking either valve seats causing some sort of instantaneous pressurizing or blow by maybe, not sure. Just make sure where the gaskets seat on the head is very clean. If you have any crap there it will make an impression into the gasket and be a possible leak spot (might also be my issue).

You were a few days younger and a few pounds lighter back then

Good thinking! They end up with them when they are constantly cutting something big and eventually the blade isnt big enough to cut all the way through. Just make sure you don't use any that are cracked or something, they will fly apart and do a lot of damage to you or your shop.

Yes, there are guys with HX's and HY's with 2000 autos on this site. --- Update to the previous post...

The heater core is part of the engine circulating part. Water circulates through it whether or not the thermostat is open so this is a good way of flushing it. Trying to flush with say, the top radiator hose, would then face the thermostat problems.

The HY was put on for emissions and throttle response. When you step on it and have no boost it will smoke, so having a smaller exhaust housing will make the turbo light sooner and have boost so it won't smoke. They still had the HX on the early 24V autos. You can get the HX to spool just as good by tightening up the valves. As for exhaust size, Mike has pulled some heavy loads lately and has the same low EGT's that I see while pulling a heavy load and he has a 3" straight pipe, I have a 5". This goes to show that the 3" outlet on the turbo will bottleneck it and you won't gain anything from putting a bigger exhaust on, you need a bigger turbo.

I've never messed with the governor springs yet but I dug around and supposedly loosening them up will solve the problem. Can't hurt anyways. I will keep digging.More info:If you get it right, your idle should be a slight bit higher after the GSK install. If your idle is lower you probably set it a click or two loose, if your idle goes way up you have it set too tight.

Had someone having issues with youtube so maybe this will help. To post a video, first you have to log in to your youtube account (or create one). 1. Once you are logged in, click the "Upload" button on the top right. 2. Now click "Upload Video". This will bring up a menu for files to choose. 3. This is what the menu looks like, select a file (the video you want) and hit "open". 4. Once you hit that open button, it will begin uploading. Now you can fill out all of the necessary information that I have arrows next to. Tags are something like "dodge,truck,etc." just keywords people use to search for the video. At the bottom are three options for privacy. The public options means anyone can find the video by searching or viewing your channel or anything. Unlisted means it does not show up on your channel and the only way to view it is by you linking them. Private means basically a harder way to share your video either by sharing it to just friends or by link, it is kind of a pain and using unlisted is a lot easier but can be shared to the public if someone copies the link to other people, private videos have a limited link use (I think 25). After that you hit "Save Changes" and it will be saved. 5. Once the upload and processing completes, it will turn green and show you a link to your video. It can take a min to all night depending on upload speed and video size..

Thats interesting how it all turned out and how the originals all split from there. You were 200 Mike was like 619, I was 1075. Now they got like 120,000.

The exhaust thing didn't work worth a damn. I ran a loop inside the 5" downpipe so the gases were all around the pipe heating it up but I didn't see any difference in warm up time. I like to think I did but in actuality I don't think it did anything. The coolant moved through the pipe too fast to get any significant amount of heat. It needed more time to soak the heat in. The VP doesn't heat up at all when the engine is running. John's truck had the edge juice which taps into the VP's fuel temp sensor so I was able to see fuel temps and as long as the truck was running the fuel temp was fine. I do wonder about long hauls where the tank gets warmed up from the constant recirculation through the VP. When I turned the truck off was when I saw the huge temp spikes from the latent engine heat being absorbed. When I started it, temp would go right back down, though slowly. Thing about cooling is although it was going to fast to warm up with it going through my exhaust, it works in reverse on the engine block. If you take the thermostat out your engine will never heat up, the coolant flies through the block but because the block is big, the coolant runs through it long enough to take all its heat, then the radiator is so big that it easily rids the heat. I did this once and went 20 miles and at the end of 20 miles it was at maybe 120F. The thermostat actually restricts flow because it would overcool without it.

If you read the thread you would have seen that he was going to change it as he always does when he goes out bogging but he got caught up doing something else and forgot to change it. Nevertheless I just wanted to show what happens since a lot of people only worry about the engine sucking in water.

I came across this and I think everyone should see it just in case some people are unaware of the effects of submerging their axle. I know a lot of people just worry about the engine sucking in water but the axle can get filled with mud/water as well. Not as catastrophic as the engine seizing but definitely something to be aware of if you happen to submerge the axle. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/337867-what-your-diff-oil-should-not-look-like.html

The BHAF provides more flow (because of more filtering surface area) and it lasts longer (since the more surface area means more filter that has to get dirty). I doubt it has much of an effect on EGT. Filtration is the same or better than the fleetguard airbox filter you have been using. I bet the fleetguard BHAF even uses the same media as the fleetguard airbox filter. They are not performance filters that have huge pores to get then engine dirty but "increase performance", they are stock filters for applications and we use them to cheat using the more surface area they provide to give us more performance without losing filtration by using some "high performance" filter. If you are partial to Fleetguard then the part number for the Fleetguard BHAF is AH19037 http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm