wil440

76 Fantic Caballero, 76 Gilera, 81 Yamaha DT 250 (new at the time) 78 Suzuki GT250, 70 CB350, 77 CB750, 81 Suzuki GS1000, 79 Yamaha RD400, 86 Suzuki GSXR100 no doubt more I forgot Not got any now which is a shame as each above would be £5k to £10k Fancy a old Harley, WLA would be just right but prices are silly, might have to be a really old British bike as there is a British bike shop just down the road from me that stock pretty much everything parts wise and the owner knows his stuff

Were both heads skimmed the same ? or was just the left head done Can you adjust the timing ? if so try advancing the timing a couple of degrees, only thing with that is it will take the total too high once the advance comes in, can the advance be restricted any way. Only saying as I used to have a distributor machine and recurve American car and truck distributors to run cooler on the fuel we have, fuel for sometime has burnt slower so needs fired off earlier but without the total timing increase, so as an example standard timing say is 10deg BTDC with a advance of 10deg so total is 20deg, if you then increase static to 12deg your total is now 22deg, 2 deg needs taking out of the advance spread to get back to 20deg, and then mess with the curve (real distributors thats springs and easy as you know) The above is a simple explanation and does take a lot more messing around to get right when running and warm does it stink and make your eyes water ? I just checked at Cometic and they don't appear to do custom head gaskets for that model, do for the 1500 and 1800 wing

This may be a stupid question..... Have you done the WT mod and if so did you fit a breaker on the main charge lead ? and a small fuse at the PCM Only asking as I went to jump start a van a few months ago, disconnected the quad and got on with it, next day noticed no charge ( Yes I look at the gauges a lot ... NOT) breaker tripped but I had totally forgot about it and actually did start to diagnose the problem DUH It tripped as soon as the van started, I know this as once it started I left my truck running and still connected, couldn't understand why it didn't put anything into van battery, towed the van home and I still didn't realise or remember until the next day.

We can also buy small sizes but always thick wall alloy not thinwall like for heating and water I've never seen here tubing that would be able to be gripped and held by a brake flare tool that would be substandard as far as pressure

Here in the UK copper tubing isn't manufactured in such a small bore size, you cannot buy it and get mixed with brake line it is all an alloy, pure ish tubing is for heating systems here, pretty sure the smallist plain copper is 3/8th bore which is microbore for heating. Put another way you cannot rock up to the plumbers merchants and get copper tubing to make a brake line out of, neither could you rock up to the car parts store and buy tubing for your heating system. Here it is just called copper brake line, I didn't realise you guys maybe aren't as standardized on different sizes for different applications with the different applications being different materials

I buy 25ft rolls although by now here it's probably some metric measurement like 10 or 20 meters dunno I've got maybe 3 or 4 rolls of various sizes knocking around, if you've never used it before it is a dream to use and work with. Like I said if your line is the one that goes around the front make it on the floor using old as a pattern, get the bends about right then fit it, you'll be able to bend it to get it where you need it to be then bend it back into shape. I have a feeling I left one end long without doing the flare as I have a small flare tool as well as a vice mounted one so once all fitted I flared the last end on the truck, pretty sure it was the passenger end with the sharpe bend, put the fitting on, did the flare then did the bend carefully around a piece of tube, I don't have a bender as with copper there is no need as if you take your time and bend carefully it won't kink. And if you can't get it in in one you could always put a join in right at the front

Rockauto has it at 0.83p per foot, just type in copper brake line in the search bar

So you can use it then ?? Makes stainless and normal steel lines totally redundant

I am in the UK but copper brake lines do not ever burst and here it is the upgrade to steel which rots away, pretty sure it's a copper alloy but flares nice and doesn't corrode Can't believe you can't use it, Stainless Steel isn't really popular here

My 3500 and my brothers 1500 both had problems with heater blend, both were the actuator but both had just failed to work at all, shaft was ok on both Seems odd though that such a small movement of the control moves the door such a big amount, I'd be removing it as you say and checking it's not broke then if it isn't plug it back not fitted to see what is happening. On my brothers some clown had removed it before and dropped what I presume to be the screw that is behind the actuator (cos that's a mule to get back in with big hands) It was right under the carpet sitting there waiting to be found

I got a oil cooler with twin 12v fans brand new, it is for the hydraulic system on a mobile Terex Pegson screen, it's maybe 14" to 16" long, 10" ish tall and 3" wide, sat on the shelf and as usual not got around to fitting it. It's got fair size inlet/outlet but I have a good working relationship with a couple of hydraulic shops so fittings and adaptors aren't a problem, my plan is/was to pipe it in alongside the original.

Correct me if I'm wrong, doesn't the right hand steel line go all the way around the front with no joins ?? IIRC it did on my truck If it does I'd use a good copper line which you can make easily, copper will bend to shape without a pipe bender ( I managed the sharp radius on your picture easily) Then to fit it in one peice it's easy to bend out of shape to get it into place then bend back, I will not kink or break if you are carefull . When I removed my old one I undone both ends, removed all the clamps etc so it was loose then cut it in half at the front x member, by cutting it I got both peices out without bending them much, layed them on the floor for a template and made the copper one Maybe the replacement stainless line does have a join IDK, you'd certainly need to be Houdini to get it in in one peice bearing in mind it won't bend like copper One other thing about stainless, if you ever have a problem with it it will be a bear to flare Can you tell I'm a huge fan of copper brake line

TBH Wow wasn't the word I used at the time but then again diving into a gas station at 30mph could have been a "Destroyed in seconds" moment too Thing is I always coat steel brake lines in copperslip but this one still carried on corroding for some reason, the worst is the rears with the springs wound around them our MOT testers love them, every time they would fail me on those because they couldn't see if they were corroded or not until I figured out to coat them in copperslip then they wouldn't bother getting their pansy hands dirty so would just pass them and comment on how well protected they were

A few years ago a was on the way to the MOT check with my 3500, engine has to be hot and brakes warm so being the MOT station is only 4 miles away from me I'm stomping it on both pedals, right at the end just before the MOT station there is a good uphill stretch with a crossroads right at the top, I'm doing 75 and left the brakes a little late to step on them to stop which I did. Turn right and the MOT station is 50 ft away on the left, pulls in and waited maybe 5 minutes then gets waved onto the brake test rollers, guys sets the rollers off, front axle, and tells me to brake I get maybe 10% into braking and pedal to the floor, right front just where your picture shows. 5 mins earlier and I'd have gone straight over a blind busy crossroads Fails the MOT and drove home with no brakes at all just the park brake I made the full line in one right around the front, was a bar steward to fit but made in copper so easily bent to get it in the bent back to shape I don't drive up to that X roads fast anymore

I used to sell caltracs here in the UK but now I've got a lathe, plasma cutter and a damn good mig if I needed them I think I'd make a set but like I say I don't get anything resembling axle wrap anyway. I life right in the bottom of a short but steep hill with a crossroads right at the top and there is no way to rollover the crossroads it's a stop, pulling off just the truck or with my workshop trailer with the road damp I spin both rear tyres, I get no bounce or wrap at all, In fact if I turn left some council fool set a large steel manhole cover right where the drivers rear tyre goes tyre spins but no bounce

I have slightly smaller tyres at 33" ish mud terrains I get no bouncing vibe at all if the tyres spin on dirt roads or wet tarmac, I never spin tyres on dry roads ever I'd be checking shock absorbers and shock bushes as well as spring eye bushes

Are you sure you're not getting crankcase pressure, I'd be checking the breather While running and warm take the filler cap off if it blows it off like a missile check breather

DOH.... sorry wrong bolts I should have spotted " 6 "

Can you get one out of the fan hub for a pattern Rockauto lists the thread as 5/16-18 if that is correct it's 5/16th UNC, as for length measure depth of hole in hub, add fan and washer thickness and subtract some so as bolts aren't bottoming out. As for grade, 8.8 minimum, 10.9 is what I would use https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=815215&cc=1366602&pt=6812&jsn=455 doesn't list the bolts but shows the size on the specs of the hub Me I'd get 5/16th UNC say 1 3/4" long 10.9 grade with spring washers and cut to length making sure after cutting to length they all screw into the hub by hand, also don't get bolts get set screws, set screws do not have a shoulder bolts do (at least they do here in the UK)

Yes that's what our NHS says, my doctor tells me It would likely be 6 months before I could be 100% at work due to what I do I was prescribed Naproxen which took all pain away within 2 days but man alive did that upset me, thought I was dying so quit that, Codiene and Physio exercises and visits to an Osteopath seem to be doing some good

It could be but it would need to be some leak to cause it to run like a Kubota as Tex-usa says and would be adding fuel to engine oil Looking at the injector shape where the crossovers sit it is also not possible to get them so badly aligned that the injector inlet is blocked off but that's not to say tubes aren't blocked or were contaminated and blocked an injector Finding out which if any are not firing then inspect/test injector/injectors and then go from there will find the problem

I use copper grease either brush on for nuts/bolts etc or aerosol for hard to reach bits, aerosol is good as it is thin to start with so penetrates but it sort of dries a little bit as the petroleum liquid evaporates so it sticks better Also have aluminium grease but that's just for anything that screws into a DPF or exhaust with a DPF so it's never wasted on anything else

Over here in the UK it's always the passenger side rear door that seizes shut as this door is in the road and not used much, my 3500 latch seized, I cut the latch stud on the cab with a hacksaw blade in a pair of mole grips, took forever but no damage to the truck at all, didn't even scratch the paint, must lube my 2500 as that's getting harder to open

The answer to your question is yes, injectors should be stored clean, I'm guessing the oil is just oil off of the injectors and other parts so not even new clean oil As has been said find out 100% which cylinder/cylinders are misfiring either by cracking injector lines one at a time while running and see the change in rpm, cracking a line to a good injector will either lower rpm significantly or stop the motor, a bad one will have little or no effect, or use a heat gun to test exhaust port temps. If any are bad pull the lot and at worst have them tested by a good fuel shop or replace. Any injectors I change I always keep the plastic caps that come on the tips and inlets and reuse if needed once spotlessly clean, I also have a large Cat box of plastic plugs and caps which I use all the time My guess is dirty old oil has got into injector inlets, or possibly a tip, that is more than enough contaminants to cause a misfire

Ouch.