wil440

My Brothers new to him 2000 1500 5.2 2wd auto of which he's had for maybe a month and I said it was a good truck (for a 1500) has just this afternoon stopped driving as in no drive forward/reverse any gear nothing but a horrible rattle whenever engine is started, this isn't a real metallic rattle it's more like a metallic rattle that has oil for lube if that makes sense I towed him very slowly back to our workshop and got it onto the lift, dropped the pan and there is steel fillings in one spot at the front end of the pan slightly to the left side, I think the torque convertor is dead as it's been having a lockup wobble randomly, we changed all the solenoids/sensors etc in the pan 2 weeks ago to address a P1740 (IIRC). it wasn't changing into 3rd, it changed fine after everything replaced in the pan So as I say I'm sure it's the torque convertor, oil is clear, no burnt smell, nothing slipping beforehand, got the starter off and flex plate good although I did think the convertor felt hotter than the rest of the trans but when it did fail he was 40mph down a slight grade so coasting really. I wasn't prepared to run it on the ramps to test pressures as I feel the trans isn't toast and didn't want to pump steel everywhere I'm going to pull the trans tomorrow Am I missing anything ???? I hope it is the torque as a trans rebuild here in the UK is pants at best

Boy am I glad I got a mechanical lift pump, engine turns voila fuel pressure.... nowt controlled by DODGEy electrics other than the command to start, I'd P pump my truck tomorrow if I could get the parts to do it and throw the auto in the skip and convert to manual and bin the body and convert to 1st gen.... oh I need a 1st gen OR fix my 3500(rust) which BTW is not diesel and has never ever let me down....

You wouldn't believe it, today I went to the local supermarket for the stuff you cannot get at the cheapos (Aldi) on the way home through the village where I live and a Duece and a half coming the other way, in front of 2 WWII jeeps with every person in all the vehicles in WWII military clothing, must have been a show somewhere local Duece was canvas back and canvas cab winch truck...... sorry off topic but man alive I'm getting one when I retire

just spotted a 2001 2nd gen cummins 2wd 2500 QCLB on ebay UK for 16.5k, bone stock even down to just had a stock replacement FLP and the seller has added that nugget as a selling point, ad also says intermittant fault with engine oil pressure sensor (did I read somewhere that after startup it's generated by the ECM) It's also had a recon vp and a new stock turbo recently My truck is 17k plus all day here £ not $ At this rate I'll get my 1940's duece and a half or a long nose semi sooner than I thought

I know it's not the same but if I sold mine here in the UK it would be £17k ish, there's a 3500 4x4 V10 on ebay on it's way here from Japan for 16.5k I wonder if the importer knows what the thing does to the gallon, no mention of it being LPG converted, cheapest petrol here is around £1.32 a litre or £6 per uk gallon, I'll bet thats around £130 to £150 to fill it. 2500 and 3500 2nd gens never come up for sale here, one reason I think is because vehicle tax on anything older than 2001 is £240 or maybe £260 after 2001 it goes on emissions, take the 5.0 mustang £2500 first year road tax, this does drop after the first year somewhat but still eye watering, over 40 years old it's tax free and no MOT yearly inspection

Hopefully it all gets sorted out and for a decent price I just yesterday had the pan off of my brothers 1500, not changing into 3rd, well would change a couple of times in the mornings then no more, got a solenoid full kit off of ebay which with delivery (GSP) and taxes came to $271, changed the lot, L/U and OD solenoids, gov pressure solenoid and pressure sensor and speed sensor also did all the earths we could find and band adjustment, jobs a good un all back working ok, truck has done 200k but inside the trans was spotless

My fuel temp never gets to 120F ever, most of the time it's less than 110F 5 to 7 psi at idle 20 plus at 2k

Your first picture of the return flow is what I saw while testing mine with the return back into the filler, I didn't measure as you have done because for 1 I didn't have the time and 2 once I saw what was returning I wasn't concerned anyway, mine was at idle and only went up with RPM due to crank driven FLP, my idle pressure is around 5 to 7psi with over 20psi around 2k rpm and rising

yes emphasis on the big, week before the inside passage we flew into Calgary, on to Banff with a stay in the Fairmont Banff Springs (WOW) then 2 days on the Rocky Mountain Railway to Vancover one night there then board the ship, I have been to some places on holiday with the Maldives being the top before this 2 weeks, Canada and Alaska easily topped . I'm 60 next year and would like to visit both again but what with Covid and arthritis in hips and spine I doubt I could sit on a plane for 10 to 12 hours

Visited Canada and Alaska in 2018, cruised the inside passage in Alaska.... beautiful and I'm sure away from the tourist areas it's even better but I did notice winter had just retreated a little further up the hills, this was in August

there is also one bigger contributor that is greater than all transport put together...... Fact..... Methane and I'll let you guys figure out where that comes from, but hey Lets just beat on the guy in the car cos we're just the dumb stupids that can be taxed to death, can't possibly tax a farmer FFS

It won't ever go for scrap, I'd rather build a man cave/bar out of 2 shipping containers and use it as a table They say here we'll never power the amount of electric vehicles we need as the grid just isn't up to it On the subject of foreign rubbish Yesterday I had a phone call from my son, Peugeot Boxer 3.5t tipper he's a landscaper/builder, thing in limp mode, got it back here and dropped the Modis on it, Injector number 5 (DPF injector) relay think the code was PB15E..... all the info I could find was as per usual vague and obviously written by people that don't have a clue. Found one piece that said to check fuses in the engine bay fuse box, guess what..... the fuse box lid DOES NOT come off until the passenger side headlight is removed and you can't get that off unto 2 peices of plastic trim are removed which is held on by clips that you cannot see or get to. Now you might say that thats modern vehicles for you.... but France where this thing was made has a law that you have to carry spare fuses and relays in the car at all times therefore you would presume that the police are hot as mustard on electrical stuff not working, not much point really if you can't get the lid off of the stupid fuse box. No fuses blown for the injector vapourizer heater, all relays checked ok, thing is there is no ID on the fuse box lids (there are 3) to tell you what fuse does what. One fuse box is in the B pillar R/H/S just to the rear of the driver, they decided to mount the hand brake lever there instead of in the middle of the seast where every other vehicle here has it, the lever is 1/2" from the front of the fuse box so that lid needs Houdini to remove it and to top it off when you get out of the thing this lever catches the seam of your back trouser pocket and tries to face plant you into the tarmac, I really do hate this vehicle

DTT Assassin is available from @dieselautopower right here in the vendors section or it was until covid.... not sure if thats made any difference to availability, I know it has for some stuff Mines been fitted now for 2 years

Thats not my picture, thats a picture I found for reference, as I said I don't have the top white gear so off to Rock for a new one

@Mopar1973Man there is nothing in the picture when I go to open it ? In the back of my mind I'm sure i've changed one before on my 3500 but I took a quick look at that and I can't see the actuator, thing is IF I have changed one I wouldn't have thrown the old one away but I can't find it anywhere, need to take another look today Rock has it listed at £80/90 inc shipping I have this one out and on the desk, I think the contacts got a little corroded and it stopped then some hero took the cover off while it was still attached to the heater and it all fell to peices, looking at it it wouldn't be too hard to convert to cable. Also while looking on internet last night there appears to be 3 and 4 pin but only 4 pin available.... this is a 4 pin found a picture and I am missing the white gear

Anyone got a picture of the heater blend door actuator with the cover removed, I think the truck I'm working on has a gear missing, my guess is some not so bright person has popped the cover off to try to figure out why the heater temp control doesn't work and a pile of guts dropped out, the clue here is that I found one gear under the carpet along with a pin.

Right now you have to pay a charge to enter the city, unless the car is low emissions. people who live in the clean air areas pay every day or change their car. It is getting worse and fast. Sure I read that the UK is banning sales of new petrol and diesel vehicles maybe by 2025. Also banning the sale of LPG gas boilers for homes in 2025 too Way more on it's way I'm sure and the only consequences of less vehicles using petrol and diesel is higher prices for fuel so you end up priced off the road. Our fuel just got a bigger % of bio too

speak to @dieselautopower there is no best proven as if the belt is on it pumps no matter what pump made by who, mine is DTT just because everyone said they were bad and I just don't follow the herd, as said my filter is a Caterpillar head and filter to 3 micron, there are several threads on here about fuel pressure mine is around 7psi ish at idle to 25psi at it's highest , might be more but I don't bounce valves, 2200 is my max, my fuel temps are low, highest was a week or so ago at 112F towing heavy in tiny roads/villages

my truck isn't allowed into certain cities without a penalty, London is one, Birmingham also and growing fast, Nottingham, Derby, petrol/gas to you guys isn't affected as yet, Gas (our gas/propane) no restrictions yet and 1/2 the cost of petrol, going to be a fine line on when my 24v gets sold before it is no longer drivable on our roads I need to judge max price before worthless

Only spare you need is a belt and if you want to be belt(scuse the pun) and braces a front seal and Fluid damper.... hands up how many have that

Careful with that but

He's done the deal, 1 2012 RR sport for 1 2000 5.2 1500 plus 2k and a full fuel tank and a full propane tank, I couldn't resist telling the guy that the ram in 5 years will be worth more than the RR pos, better for me as I now fix a ram instead of real garbage, And more to the point it just might have motivated me to fix my 3500 And while I'm on this track @Mopar1973Man could you maybe sort out a gas ram section, a lot of stuff carries over anyway, I have both a 98.5 diesel and a 98 gas 5.9, guess what as a driver I prefer the 3500 5.9V8, but as a tow vehicle the 98.5 24v does it but my 3500 hasn't towed my 5th as it's off the road rusting so I cannot compare I think here in the uk diesels will be done within the next 5 years or at least taxed off the road

Me personally I wouldn't use any kind of electric lift pump, my truck has a mechanical lift pump driven off of the crank pulley, I'll not say I've not had some concerns with it BUT I use a Caterpillar filter head and filter to 3 microns If a DTT or similar mechanical pump has a belt on it it pumps fuel end of, if the crank turns, no Dodge joker electrics involved, doesn't matter about the ECM, PCM or any other POS electrical junk engine turns it will pump

I have a 98.5 QCSB 4x4 and stock trans as far as I know, quad fitted a year ago, never really had the time to figure out my own tunes so I just run a towing and DD from here and wary of the trans was running the quad on level 3 and no more, bucked like a bronco BUT I thought it was lock up slipping so being VERY steady on the go pedal I got that ##ssed with driving like your granny I thought wind it up and if the trans explodes I'll deal with it Both tunes are now at the max level, truck pulls like the Flying Scotsman (and if you don't know what that is check it out) no bucking no cutting out, I have no idea why as not got the time to work out why, Mike or Nick will know going to be timing

DAP draw straw job done...... confusing to me why you call it a draw straw, I put a straw into a drink or I did, I'm too old to drink out of a straw, my grandkids use a straw tank suction, fuel tank suction tube, tank stand pipe, fuel suction line