DieselD24

Based on what I have been reading, it seems like everyone is doing oil changes at 5,000 or more miles. Plenty more at 7,500 or 10,000 and even at 10,000 with a filter change in between.I only start the truck two times a day, and that is to work and from work, maybe three or four at the max when running errands and such but, my driving distance from home to work is about 15 miles or so on the highway. The engine only sees no more than 65-70 MPH highway and roughly 35-40 on city streets. ISX had mentioned earlier his engine sees 45 everday and hardly loads the engine at that speed. Now, I don't know how much of an increase in engine load there would be at 65-70 but, by that time I would think there's a bigger window of engine load placed on the components, thus creating more friction.Another thing I have considered is the amount of fuel that gets introduced into the oil at start-up. I don't like letting the truck idle for very long because I don't want to cook the inectors but, sometimes its really cold and I like driving inside a warm cab. Usually by the time I'm ready to leave the coolant temperature is at 110 or 120 degrees but, I'm thinking a decent amount of fuel has fallen into the oil by doing this.With all that said would it be safe to say I can do my oil change at 10,000 miles as well?

Yeah, I don't know if i would trust toilet paper as a filtering medium. With all that dust and stuff it leaves, I don't know about that...

Sounds fairly simple.

I can deal with a slow leak. Thanks again!

Thank you very much! It couldn't have been there for very long, there's no residual or dry oil around it. Looks like it's a few days fresh. As for the fix, Does it require a tear down of the transfer case for the seal? --- Update to the previous post... oh, nevermind.

I got the sudden urge to creep underneath the truck earlier, and discovered an oil leak at the end of the transmission where the driveline connects. There's a gasket there and that's where the oil is leaking from. There's a drip there, I don't even wanna know how much fluid I've already lost just from driving it. Luckily I caught it in time and know it's there now. Anybody know what I'm talkin about? How hard of a fix is this?

Manufacturer recommends oil to be changed at the 7,500 mile interval along with other things. I've heard of people going to the full 7,500 and some won't even go past 3,000.I know it's a dumb question to be asking but, I can only come up with 2 conclusions to this.3,000 miles can be pretty costly but, increases engine life as it's being flushed out with new oil. I guess those who can afford will do this.7,500 will be more cost effective in the long run but, you have just doubled the contaminants introduced into the system by doing it at this time. We all know that oil serves us 4 purposes, and that is, seal, cool, lubricate, and clean. Only makes sense that all four of these lack in their respective department by extending the interval.What do you guy's think?

Mine does it at 30 MPH with light throttle at a steady constant speed. With TPS at 24.3% and if I add a little throttle to 26.5% it'll do it. Same when I let off the throttle it'll do it again. Very annoying, I must say. Seriously debating on the quick fix. --- Update to the previous post... How would resetting the APPS fix this?

Someone's lost...

Agreed! For $20 you can't go wrong if it solves the issue. I haven't dealt with the isolator myself personally, but when the isolator doesn't last for very long, then you have got bigger problems. I'm just more the type that believes in going down to the main root of the cause, rather than just guessing, though I have done it. Won't lie there...

/threads/3101-Brake-lights-stays-on">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3101-Brake-lights-stays-on Try This

How it turn out so far?

I've been keeping an eye on this thread, but haven't subscribed since we never heard back from him. I wonder what happened...

There's a lot to be said about that. :nono:Has he even been on since?

Anyway, hope you enjoyed the day.

Looks like someone will get it before I do.

I'm 24, does that mean that's what I have to look forward to when I hit 31? Some hazyness-ish?I'll tell my fellow youngsters, "It's the Diesel's Fault"

I'm gonna apologize in advance for going off topic for a minute but, what's wrong with Shell oil? --- Update to the previous post... I'm sorry, I meant Fuel. --- Update to the previous post... Not to mention I haven't heard of some of those companies that you listed towards the end.

Nice!When calibrating the speedometer what are the initial inputs?

Indeed... So, what's it like have been living 31 years now?

Oh, DOH!:doh:Speed sensor... calibrating... DUH!!:duh:How much was your Smarty HeavyD?

That is weird. Have you taken a look at the switch itself? It might be staying closed, thus activating the circuit. Also, check grounds, connections, condition of wires, anything at this point. As far as the noise isolator goes, you answered your own question. I've heard good and bad from them, lasting anywhere from a few months to as long as 2 years all depending on what the actual problem is. It's only a band-aid.I don't know what kind of stator windings are used in our style generators, but a new alternator will only be good until one of the diodes begins to leak and eventually takes out our APPS. Again, installing a noise isolator is a band-aid fix until it gets worse. You need to find out what the main culprit is, as it's giving you hell. :mad::mad:I've heard that when an ECM on these trucks goes bad, it throws an "ECM Failure" code, I believe it's 606. I don't know if it's true or not, but that doesn't mean it won't throw one either. Wish I could be of more help.

Happy Birthday! It was also someone elses birthday today too, but I can't remember who.

I'll have to find out if the Quad has this or not.Is that the actual gear that would be on my truck in that exact picture?