DieselD24

I was under the impression you should never use an analog meter to test ECM, ECM related circuits, and anything under the voltage regulator?

Glad it's only $3.239/GAL here. Filled up completely before with $80 when it's almost bone dry.

Correct me if I'm wrong but, I thought there were only mechanical gauges, and not electronic ones for fuel pressure. Which one has the better advantage? Now, I'm really curious as to what my fuel pressure really is. What's the general pressure window on stock lift pumps? --- Update to the previous post... I could be running 0 PSI too, and not even know it.

LOL! That's a funny way of putting it. I guess I was left traumatized after I had borrowed my dad's Chevy Silverado to go to school a couple of years ago. He specifically told me how to put it on and take it off, but I was in such a hurry to leave that I missed a few parts. He's one of those "detail by detail" people and explains everything so calmly and pacifically. Anyway, I remember trying to put it in 2WD and pulled and pryed on the stick, and heard all kinds of grinding noises and a big "CLUNK". After that, I knew it was toast, and since then I was like "Never again will I drive a stinkin' 4WD truck". And here I am, seasoning and salting my words as I am now an owner of one. I get a lot of hell from him for that, still to this day. LOL:lmao:

Thanks again!

Well, I figured I might as well try them both since I've never driven the truck with any 4WD setting. I didn't drive the truck in the 4LO range since I couldn't go any faster, and noticed a big difference with the HI range.This is the first truck I've ever owned... I'm not familiar with 4WD.

I got out of work this morning only to find out that it had snowed a good 3-4". Upon driving on my way home I was on the highway and caught a wide turn on a steep hill, causing my rear wheels to slip. I had to turn my steer tires in the direction the rear end was moving to avoid collision.Lucky me! I was forced to engage the 4WD on the truck, as much as I didn't want to, I had to.To my surprise, I engaged it with the truck off, transmission in neutral, and was on my way.Thanks to all of the members on here, I remembered what each and every single one of you had said. Had it not been for everyone on here, I probably would have made a big mistake and would probably still be out there right now towing her home, as this site is my only source of information.As for my next question (bare with me please, I know I ask a ton of questions)... would it be bad to park the truck with the transfer case in either the 4WD LO or 4WD HI when not in use?

Of course, I was gonna invest in a fuel gauge next. When my APPS went out, I immediately assumed that it was the lift pump but, as it turned out, I did a little bit more research, and found out I could pop the codes by cycling the ignition, which I did not know of. Anyway... to make a long story short, I had ordered a BD lift pump for $200 from a diesel performance shop from my assumption. Luckily I came across this site, did some reading and solved my issue. As for my assumption of the lift pump, I only assumed because it seemed to be a common failure on the VP44 style trucks. Yes, I know assuming only makes you look like an as* in the end. :banghead:For that reason only, I think it would be a wise idea to monitor my fuel pressure.

All I've done on an ISX is replace one of the camshafts... As for your question, I haven't gone too deep into it to give you a correct answer. Sorry... --- Update to the previous post... Wish I could be of further assistance.

Don't forget the snack packs! --- Update to the previous post... I'm having one right now...

Problem is, most of the time, if it's a quality install they would have soldered the remote start wires with the ignition wires under the steering column. If not, they probably spliced it or used butt connectors, If so eliminate the remote start from where it's tapped and rewire only the wires as if it were factory. You may also have to check if the remote start is tapped into one of your injector wires as well, as that's where it gets it's signal from. Unfortunately, disconnecting it's power will only prevent it from starting, as it's tied into the ignition. --- Update to the previous post... That's only if the injectors are EUI, which I don't know how they are on your year truck.

Says on the site it supports the 9141-2 standard. Further down it states that it doesn't support the 9141-1 standard e.g. older v.w. and audi and such standards.Is there 2 different 9141 protocols? I know our trucks use the 9141. Or correct me if I'm wrong...

Yea, see, that's what my worries are also. I can't think of how many times I've tried to hold things on the windshield with that stupid suction cup and it falls right off, no matter what you do. Both suction cup and velcro only work for a short period, so I know I'm gonna have to come up with a better way of securing it soon. I am in the process of coming up with a solution to this... time to hit up the nearest hardware store. Hopefully I come up with something. --- Update to the previous post... In the features listed on the ultragauge website it says it does read them as well as clear them. On my install, I was surfing through the menu, and it even has an injector cut-out test feature on it. I thought it was pretty neat, but I'll have to look into that some more. I don't know if the SG can clear them. Someone who has it will answer that for you, I'm sure. --- Update to the previous post... http://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/TEN/more.htm --- Update to the previous post... Well, I take what I had said about the mold bar not moving, bending, or pivoting back. Turns out it does bend and stay to that shape, it doesn't help that it sat for 8 hours in the cold, roughly at 30-40 degree temperature. I messed around with it for a bit before doing something else, But I was able to get a few gauges on my first page. I got ECT, which started at 46 and quickly increased as soon as I fired up the engine, TPS, RPM, and MPH. The other 2, I didn't set, simply because they are fuel related and they both need inputs such as tire size and fuel used, in order for these to be calibrated. I will definately keep working on this, so far so good. And yes, it does scan and clear codes.

Nice!Then that is how I will do it.

I just got the UG lastnight and installed it. I didn't like how the swivel mold bar mounts on the windshield. There's no pivoting action to allow for clearances on the dash. It came with 2 pieces of velcro so, I'm gonna have to work with that instead. Other than that it seems to be a nice piece of equipment. It found 30 available gauges that are on the truck, so it's all a matter of inputting them onto a zone on the page. Don't know which ones I wanna put on the first page, but it'll be somewhere along the lines of fuel economy, fuel used, and such. I will be working on that today and see how it goes. I'll keep ya'll posted... --- Update to the previous post... 98whitelightnin, Where did you install your UG and, did you use the Mold bar?

There's just so many ways of doing it I guess, that it's hard to say which is the preferred method. I still haven't even attempted engaging the 4WD since that night - too scared.

The coolant filter one seems pretty cool. But, even then it wouldn't have to be changed out very often after the 9 month interval.

My old boss put a Cummins engine in his 99 suburban. Have no idea how he did it.

So, I should never pause is what you guys are saying? God I feel like a jack*ss! :doh:I'm gonna go the failproof way like ISX mentioned before, engage and disengage with transmission in park and engine off. That sounds like a much safer way.And just to think, all the hurt I caused her when I ground her gears... :cry:I hope she's okay...

Well folks, glad to say that's the end of that! Cleared the codes after installation and no more problems! I appreciate the help everyone contributed in the solution to my problem.Thanks again!

You lucked out, I got mine for $76+. But, still it beats SG's $160, and i'm sure they both are of the same quality, just matter of preference, I guess.

I paused the transfer case in neutral for a bit, I think that might have been why it grinded.

Then should I change it into 4WD lo with transmission in park and engine off?

I tried to put the truck in 4WD Lo with transmission in neutral. i was able to get out of the snowpile no problem but, when I tried putting it back in 2HI with transmission in neutral I got a grinding noise. I paniced as the transmission wouldn't catch a gear.Finally it caught a gear but, when I read up on the owners manual it says truck needs to be rolling 2-3 mph to engage the 4wd, is that with transmission in gear or neutral coasting?I need to learn how to engage this thing properly.

Sure will!