Unreal Summit

I can't leave stuff alone especially when I know something is wrong with it. So I went and looked at my wheels and tires. Not a wheel one has a weight on it. I think I'll start with that.

Thank you. I just went and read it. Seems easy enough. I guess that would cause some vibration with any of that being bad.

So I got a bad vibration starting around 15mph until 40mph. Shakes the drink holders, mirrors, and feels like it's under the floor board. Almost like front drivers side. I think I got a bad u joint. The one that comes from the transfer case to the front end. (No idea how to get that off). I can push that drive shaft up a little bit and it clunks. Also my carrier bearing has some play in it. Idk how much is ok or if it needs to be tight. Any help or ideas is much appreciated!

So I hauled a small trailer and some lawnmowers today and after I got everything unloaded I went to unhook the trailer well when I shut off the truck I can hear gurgling from the fuel tank. No pressure was relieved when I unscrewed the fuel cap but I can hear the fuel moving when it gurgles. Then it did it again when I got back home and parked it. Normal?

Well I reckon it was just a little rust build up. Drove it yesterday and hauled the tractor and bushog today. No issues at all. Glad it was nothing!

Alright good idea! Thank u!

Think I should be able to take them apart and clean them up and be ok if this is what's wrong?

That's what I am hoping for. We shall see! Thanks for the reply!

I drove the ol Dodge some today, cause it hasn't gotten driven much lately. Maybe 20 mins on back roads. I may have done a little "fun" driving but not much. I am not hard on it at all. Anyway I am pulling back into the driveway and I catch a wif of hot break. Both of the front breaks are hot enough I can feel heat coming from um. I replaced rotors, pads, and calipers about 10,000 miles ago. It didn't pull left or right while stopping. I think I'll drive it around again tmw and see what it does. But what do ya think it might be? Master cylinder? Flexible break lines? Or just because it sat for a little while??

Yea it helped a lot! Wouldn't of thought to see that big of a difference. Maxes out that hy35 pretty quick lol. Thanks for all ur help!

that would work. But I just wanted to give it a little more juice if possible with the quad. Which it did and worked really well. No lock up switch or anything. Lol

I was trying to mainly keep it from down shifting while making the pull. I might be at 25 to 30% throttle. The adjustment from 1.5 to 2 max load helped big time. Big difference! That will what I use on my fun tune and maybe tow tune. Daily will be 1 as it seemed to help my mpg according to my lie o meter. Thanks mopmar man! Yet again you are the man! Makes boost super fast now lol

I thought about the headstud thing about 2 hours after I sent it lol. I think dropping the max load to 1 helped the fuel mileage not drop as much on hills but didn't really make a improvement on more power. I'll try going up to 2 on the way home today. I'll try and add my tune today when I get home. Don't think I can do it on my phone.

I have the file exported but I can't seem to figure out how to upload it. I'll try switching the max load to 1 and see that that does. No headstuds but that shouldn't hurt anything should it?

Yea I got a quadzilla and a bhaf, no muffler, and a fass 150. Sorry I ain't sure how to change my sig! Just wondering should I try and add more fuel from can bus cause I don't use wire tap. Or take more timing away Figured out the sig. Sorry about that Timing is Max load offest 1.5 Low psi 5 Timing reduct scaling 60 Light throttle 2 Max timing 15,18,21,23, and 25 Fuel is 109, 111, 113, 115, 118, 121, 124 and so on

I am wondering if I can tweak something in my tuning to give me a little more power on hills. If I am running 55 up a decent grade it's like it's stuck between wanting to down shift and just not having the power to pick up the speed I want it too. Kinda hard to explain so I hope I make some sense. I know some bigger injectors and turbo would help more than anything.

Yea that's it. I'll replace that while I am at it

Would the one way check valve be the round diaphragm that comes off the main line of the vacuum pump

I got most of mine switched over to air brake line. It still reverts back to defrost after the truck is cut off and sits a few mins. However no more smoke coming from the vent tube and I haven't had a drop of oil from it in a couple of days now. So I'll call that a fix. Thanks y'all.

Yea that was poor design. I might do something like that one day. Good thinking as always!

Now that's a dang good idea!!! 1/4' air brake line should work well. Thank you!

I got 208,xxx on her right now. I did the vent trick, where I left um on face and when I got in my truck it was blowing out the defrost untill I started my truck. So I undone the main vacuum line and plugged it. Boom no smoke/vapor as all. I think I already found my vacuum leak I just got to go get some more vacuum line. I guess this would make it drip more oil than it used to as well since it pushing more air around. Thanks everyone for your help!

Good idea. Warm weather shouldn't make it worse right?

I can see it coming up coming from under my truck and when the wind blows I can really see it! Idk how to post a video on here or I would. I dont think I lose vacuum after my truck sits. I need to trace all my vacuum lines I guess.

I have noticed a big increase in the amount of smoke/vapor from my vent tube, seems to happen since the weather turned hot. Day time or night I can see the vapor coming out around the truck. Runs fine no loss of mpg. Doesn't smoke anymore out of the oil filler hole. Doesn't use any oil and I only have a drip or two fall into the driveway. A/c controls, 4x4, and cruise all work as normal. I did the moparman mod this winter so it's my first year with it. Is this normal? Or should I be looking into something?