SavageTusk

I did just that. Used the soap cannon, scrubbed, and then power washed. It takes a couple days to fully dry because of the padding. While it's drying, I'd suggest putting down some sound dampening material. You'd be surprised how much this quiets the cab. Personally I used "peal and seal" or frost king duct insulation, each have their perks. Frost king is thicker but peal and seal is easier to work with and can get in tight places. Both can be picked up at Lowe's or Home Depot. I use spray foam in 2 places. All doors are done in peal and seal too.

I used light grey vinyl and fabric spray paint after the carpet dried from a shampoo and power wash. It was mainly under the seats on rust spots that wouldn't come out. Turned out great and it doesn't smell like spray paint in the truck.

That's actually a good Idea. It's nice to have wires when you need them.

Doh, I was looking at it from the wrong angle. Normally the rear camera is powered by the tail lights (reverse), I'll just have the 12v come from the radio switched 12v and combine the 2 in the back. Sometimes you just have to type it out and the answer will come to ya.

Does anyone know if there is a native wire that receives 12v (when the key is turned on) by the rear bumper/trailer connection area? I like to have the option to view my rear view cam at any time but don't want it to be constantly on. I haven't found one so far and thought I'd ask before I run a long wire back there.

Looks nice! What kind of mounting options are y'all thinking?

So if the radio is not being used by the CCD network, couldn't these be terminated going to the radio harness so there's no chance that there is any bias from the aftermarket radio?

Heard that man, I was able to save mine with some clips from the salvage yard and silicone then I got an abs bezel cap (eBay) works pretty slick though. If I had to buy a new one and it wasn't abs plastic, I'd silicone every single clip just to be on the safe side, plus it's easy.

Hm, on all tests 4.7 on CCD bus + 3.9 ON CCD bus - Just curious while I'm waiting for my PCM to get here, wonder why the radio is part of the CCD network?

Excellent job, looks great man! I would recommend to anyone that has a dodge with these bezels because of the hard plastic nature; to silicone every tab in place. I have not had a broken tab since.

Does anyone know of an app that lists the voltage outputs on pins from the obd2 port in near real time via a Bluetooth dongle? If not this would be a good one to have.

I don't know if it works for everyone but here is a perfect spot for me that is in view but doesn't take your eyes off the road or interfere with your field of view. I attached an otter box (you could use any hard plastic case) to an 8" old tablet. I used a couple L brackets with spacers so the headliner can go above it and bolted it to the otter box. I hav a zip tie on it for safety but will probably come up with something else to secure it in the otter box. Here's a couple pics with it completely installed and with the visor down. I got a 12v to USB adapter and wired it in my A pillar so it's always charged. It stops when it's full. A 90* micro USB helps here so it's not too tight with the a pillar. If you leave up iquad all you need to do is shut the screen off. Connects every time I start the truck. @Quadzilla Power a version of this would be nice for a display.

That is VERY Informative, I think I'm starting to get it now, I know, I know, sometimes it takes a while, lol. So pin 3 on the OBD2 plug (violet/brown this is the ccd bus+) should be 2.49v pin 11 on the OBD2 plug (white/black this is ccd bus-) should be 2.51v When I am measuring the voltages, I can disconnect the modules, one at a time until the voltages return to those values. Testing: PCM - leave hooked up (source of network) Unplug: CTM - left side of dash Radio Instrument Cluster Air bag control module - Lower center of dash ABS - on hydro under hood Overhead console - Deleted in my truck, already disconnected ECM

I never had it rebuilt just reflashed to 2001 stock by Bob at Smarty. I honestly don't know if it's my PCM, ECM or wiring. Something is off and the 1698 code leads to the PCM. I'm working with https://carcomputerexchange.com/ right now, since they have a money back guarantee, I fugure it can't hurt anything to get both the PCM and ECM both, then try one at a time, then I can send back what I don't need. Good thinking on the idle/3cyl for the ECM.

Thank you, it seems like I may have an issue with my PCM. I got this code yesterday at oriellys. I'm down from 11 codes to 3 though. There's hope! 1689 & 0237 were the other two.

Interesting you mentioned that. One of my grid heter terminal boots is melted a bit. I've never seen it hot but was like that when I got the truck. If I'm receiving vss to the speedo via pin 6 on the joint connector that goes to the speedo (CCD+) it must be an open between there and the abs module pin 12 or from the abs module to pin 27 on the PCM.

@Mopar1973Man are you saying to run a jumper from the white/BLK from the ABS to the white/BLK at the ECM? I was reading this article and seemed to work for this guy, little different scenario.

Does anyone know what this orange wire goes to? In the schematic it looks like 5v.

Thank you, Good information. I've replaced the rear speed sensor and will perform the checks mentioned. Question, Is the rear speed sensor the only speed sensor? This is a 5 speed so I don't think one is up by the transmission but may be wrong.

Is it imperative that a drb III scan tool be used for this? I'd there another way this can be tested? I've been looking at the power probe hook and a obd scan tool as an alternative? Thoughts?

Well reviewing the wiring diagrams this morning got me thinking. There was no power at all to the vehicle besides the starter. I decided to go out to the dealership which hadn't started working on my truck yet and with a can of electrical cleaner spray and dielectric grease pulled the main power plug, cleaned, spread dielectric grease over the connections and screwed it back to the main fuse panel under the hood. I'll be damned it worked, and the oil pressure gauge worked. I was able to drive home. I still have no MPH on the Quadzilla and nervous about water messing something up again, but progress! I have a check engine light on so I'll get the code(s) read tomorrow. I have a feeling I need to go through the wiring. Any suggestions on where to start?

Drove fine to work yesterday. It rained all day, went out to the truck after work and turned the key and I think every light came on blinking here and there. In the odometer it read "no bus" It started right up and then just shut down..all power. Batteries were fine, I could crank the engine but nothing when you turn the key; just a flicker of the wait to start light and then nothing. I checked about as many fuses as I could in the rain, eventually having it towed to the dealership. Always sad to see your truck on a flatbed. And now I wait, I wonder what the issue will be...besides the bill.

I don't know what to think. I replaced the oil pressure sensor and it was working fine, matching the mechanical gauge. To address the no mph showing on the quadzilla, I replaced the speed sensor on the rear axle and still nothing. Here's the really strange thing. I replaced the MAP sensor and now the oil pressure sensor is going bonkers again. Yes I know the locations of the MAP and Oil pressure sensors. I just don't get it. I had the codes cleared a while back so maybe I'll get them read again. I just don't know..

So 45 on the ecm ends up going to the pcm (grey/black). What I don't understand is why the speedometer works and the quadzilla does not receive a signal. What harness on the quadzilla reads the speed?

Here's the link. It is a 1 din but has a 4.1" screen. Nice for the backup camera. Operationally, it's OK but there's a lot I'd change for ease of use. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263819416493