fire176969

Have to add one thing to your list, if the snap ring for the direct clutches happens to break and pops out at the right time, it can cause you to not have park and does make a growling noise (at least mine did) because the parking pawl bounces along the top of the gear it engages.

There should be a joint in the downpipe from the turbo near the firewall that has two bolts going through it, they hold the exhaust to the turbo outlet. The mounting nuts for the turbo are a bit of a pain, but are removed from the top as well. 3937706 is the drain gasket part number, some people are lucky enough to use them over, I am not one of them.

Yes, the lines for the rear brakes are ran inside the frame rail behind the fuel tank. You can reroute them if you want to but they are better protected inside the frame. Also keep in mind that while everyone seems to use them, including me, compression fittings are illegal to use on brake lines and if inspected they can make you have it towed. That being said, if you can determine which line it is, if there is more than one brake line going to the rear of your truck, you can disconnect it at the next connection forwards and the rear which should let you fish it through behind the tank without dropping the tank. Still wouldn't be a bad idea to drop the tank once it is closer to empty so you can secure the new line before a hole gets rubbed through it or anything else.

One thing I recommend everyone do when they buy a CTD, adjust the valves. I'm pretty sure there is a write up on it. I can't believe some of the engines I have adjusted valves on were even running. Seems that the 12v were worse about it than the 24v engines, however I think that was mainly due to most dodge dealers not having a diesel tech and just threw someone on them to adjust valves that didn't have a clue how to and either didn't have the info or was to lazy to look it up.

You shouldn't have to get underneath. Like was already said, just pull the turbo and you should be able to get to everything. Don't forget to replace the manifold gaskets, Cummins part number 3946275 are the ones I use. They are a steel gasket and seem to have less issues than most with leaks as long as you get the surfaces clean and smooth. The manifold bolts torque to 32 ft lbs.

I missed the gas to diesel part. I couldn't say there, all the ones i swapped around were diesel to diesel.Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Yeah, i just swapped them with no problems. Also put my into a 99 trying to figure out a problem a friend was having. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I swapped that module out with one from a 01 and the remote door locks worked. Your truck should already have the capability for the remote locks. Of you don't have one working remote for the module in your truck the dealer has to program one, then you can use that remote to program additional remotes. There are several different part numbers for remotes and only certain ones will work with certain modules. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

The remote door locks are controlled by the black module under the steering column. The auto door locks can be turned off using the key and the buttons but I can't remember or seem to find the sequence for turning them off right now.

I have 35s with 3.55 gears and don't have any problems at all. Not sure why you think it is too much tire.

[ATTACH]6133[/ATTACH]The steps I built. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I built my own steps for when my dad steals my truck from me. I used the tube step brackets that were left on my truck when the steps themselves rusted off. Welded some schedule 80 2 inch pipe onto those and welded 1/4 by 2 inch angle iron to the pipe. Made them long enough they are a good step to get into the toolbox also. Have had 4 people (average weight of 200 pounds each) standing on one step at the same time.

Be sure to check the trackbar also if it wasn't eliminated with the steering kit you installed.

Only thing left to do now on the front end is bearings, ball joints, tie rods, and control arm bushings (again). Oh, almost forgot the axle seals alsoSent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I actually bought it with the lift already installed or i probably wouldn't have done anything but a leveling kit. The big plus to the lift and tire combo i have is that i don't need to run a raised hitch to pull a tow behind deck over trailer. Everyone else i know with a stock height truck has to run a raised hitch to get the trailer even close to level. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission/nv4500_conversion_transmission.html#NV4500AutoRep4wd http://www.balsleyautosales.com/ The second link has conversion kits every so often. Will have to call them to see for sure.

Feel like sharing the mods for 1st&2nd lockup? I'd be interested in doing this and testing mine to see if it stalls or the rpms just drop a little like yours did.

I know you found a set already, but thought I would add my . The tires I have in my signature have around 49,000 mils on them and counting. They are not the greatest in the mud but do ok, other than that they have been one of the best tires I have ever owned. I have rotated them once, yes I know I am slacking, but they have been through sled pulling, dragging trees in the woods, hauling and towing heavy on pavement and gravel, and have even ran over a few downed trees after some storms came through. They aren't the cheapest and can get a little squirrely in the rain, I think the width of mine have something to do with that, but overall a good tire.

For anyone else with a lifted truck looking for a trackbar conversion. www.spohn.net The mounting bracket is kind of a pain to install but seems to be pretty sturdy. Had it installed for 3 days now and so far so good.

It is basically a fan, a glow plug, and a fuel injector. The kit comes with a little electric pump for fuel. I plan to get one for my camper when I get a nicer camper and actually use it more. I had planned to actually use a boat fuel tank and run the power from a 110 outlet through a converter for 12 volts, never checked if they make a AC voltage version. It takes about 10-15 minutes to get it fired up and running when the fuel system is dry to get to full heat output. With a minimally insulated sleeper (approximately 322 sq. ft.) and a small BTU version for a semi I have witnessed the cab temp go from 30 to 60 in about an hour. I'm not sure but I think that truck had the smallest BTU version made installed in it. http://www.espar.com/videos/airtonic-tech-info.html

Could you tell if the clutch on the compressor kicked in when you turned it on? Working going down the road and not when stopped could be a couple different things. One could be not enough air flow sitting still through the condensor causing the high pressure switch to kick the ac compressor clutch out. The other could be a slightly low charge, enough for it to work when the RPM is raised enough for the compressor to work at its highest efficiency. If the charge was a little low from a small leak it might have lost enough for the low pressure switch to cause it not to run. Have also seen the high pressure switch stick keep the compressor from running. As for the switch in the cab, I'm not sure exactly how these trucks are setup but there has to be something electrical to activate the ac compressor clutch so it is something worth looking into. I would check the pressure in the system and if the compressor is running first though.

You could run that heater off of a diesel fuel can. It doesn't necessarily have to be connected to the fuel source of your tow vehicle. They do make them in gas versions also, but i have never used one of the gas ones before. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I agree, 14 psi at idle is very strange. Would definitely explain low power with the ecm defueling like crazy like was just mentioned. That's where i would start, unless you did have a major typo, lol. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

That would be where I would start. With your fuel pressure being good and no excessive smoke and good boost pressure its the only thing I can think of to cause it. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

If your reader can see live data from the engine drive it and see what your MAP sensor is showing. If the MAP sensor has stuck or not working correctly it may not cause a fault but not be seeing the boost pressure, if the MAP sensor doesn't see it the ECM won't give the engine any more fuel.