NIsaacs

When was the fluid changed last? I would at least do that before anything else. I recommend Red Line synthetic after a good drain and flush.

Third gen AAM axles didn't use 3.55's, only 3.73 or 4.10. With the 6spd manual, my guess is 3.73's, 4.10's are really slow with one overdrive. I think the 3.42's started with the 4th gen. I would also drain your t-case and look for metal contaminated oil.

I would pull the front diff cover and inspect. Drive train noise travels, hard to pin point sometimes.

Stock lines other than the 1/2" from the pump to the filter canister. I guess I will just run it then, sometimes I wish I didn't have a gauge. I run it for years with just oem lift pumps (3) and an Airtex with no gauge, just wait till they acted up then changed them. Then with a gauge I have used a DDRP, and now 2 Raptors. Truck runs great with oem VP and 346k miles. I mean what do all the 4th gen guys say? Just drive it, you can't hurt it, kinda what I have been doing

I just changed out my Raptor 100 for a 150, no change in fuel temps. After a 5 hour 3 trip haul, easy down hill loaded, I am at 153*, 2/3 tank of fuel, 95* ambient. I have it set at 17 psi, it helped a lot on cruise psi but WOT dropped to 8 psi

I just changed out my Raptor 100 for a 150, no change in fuel temps. After a 5 hour 3 trip haul, easy down hill loaded, I am at 153*, 2/3 tank of fuel, 95* ambient. I have it set at 17 psi, it helped a lot on cruise psi but WOT dropped to 8 psi.

Is that a three core? I can't quite tell by the picture. How thick is the total core width?

Can you take a picture of the clutch disk? 2-3" is nuts. Did you drain the tranny prior to removal? If not, do so and see what the quality is. If it is full of metal contamination, then yes, full rebuild is in order.

Yes, N4070 is the one for a diesel. Click on diesel under engine choice. They are SKF, look at the warrantee download. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRGN4070?partTypeName=Clutch+Release+Bearing&keywordInput=clutch+release+bearing#

No, SKF is good stuff. I think they used a no name brand

That's been my experience with them. They are now using Aetna bearings, good stuff, however, their previous supplier had issues. O'Reilly National/BCA should be a good one as is Napa/SKF, however, Napa is really expensive. Link to Aetna. https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=Awr9GjA10itf1_wA2GJXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTByb2lvbXVuBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzcg--/RV=2/RE=1596736181/RO=10/RU=https%3a%2f%2fwww.aetnabearing.com%2fproduct-category%2faetna-thrust%2f/RK=2/RS=uepVBMeZHjjDk_hJMbl90OGTGFo-

I agree, 66k miles and 4 years on my 100, just ordered the 150. My pressure drops at WOT too far (5-7) and high fuel temps.

What did you get? The plain one that needs covered? I don't see a complete seat cushion. Part number?

Wow, nice bump in power with the new injectors. I didn't expect that. Boost jumps to 28 psi now, still can get some smoke but it is grey now and not soot black. Idle is haze free. Old injectors have Brasil KDAL 59p5 18208, 245 bar on the bodies and 4 hole nozzles. The new ones had really thin washers v/s old, they were thick. I would say about .010 v/s .030 After some research, the old injectors might be 4x13, 155* spray pattern and rated 50hp P-pump or 30hp VE pump. That might explain the bump in power and the smoke they had.

For 23K I would buy the Ram and not look back. You need to give us more info on the trucks, just the year is not much. If I could afford it I would upgrade my 2nd gen. in an instant with a 4th gen.

You might check into this one, it is what I have, only a Sachs brand. It has held up well with 400hp/900tq for 130k miles, towing heavy. You probably have the 12 1/4" clutch now, so I would go ahead and move up to the 13" at least. https://www.phoenixfriction.com/p-23462.aspx

Rebuilt the HX35 and installed it in the '91. It was a direct bolt in. I did need to move the exhaust pipe/brake back 1 inch, the '91 exhaust manifold had studs to mount the turbo. The HX35 had two studs, so I removed them and 2 from the '91 manifold and used smaller bolts clear through, threads and all. The oil lines were exact as was the compressor outlet. The shaft was worn slightly so it didn't tighten up as much as I would have liked. Shake down run with empty truck to town and back, it spools quicker but max boost was the same, 26psi. The big oem air filter housing muffles the intake so no cool intake spool up whine. The exhaust might have a slightly louder idle whistle.

I talked to DAP and they recommended these, so that what I ordered. https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-brand-new-performance-injector-5x0-012-vco-145-up-to-50hp-15293

What about the 7x10's @ 55hp? What is the preference for more or less spray holes/size? DAP has way too many choices, Lol

Looking to replace my 20 year old 50hp Bully Dogs. Getting the blue/rich idle haze, plus they have always been smoky. I understand I need the 145* spray pattern for my '91.5 intercooled truck. Looking at these with new Bosch bodies: https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-brand-new-performance-injector-5x0-012-vco-145-up-to-50hp-15293 https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-brand-new-performance-injector-5x0-012-sac-145-up-to-50hp-15297 I would like to stay in the 50 hp range, it seems to do really well at this level. I have no EGT's or coolant issues at all, just too much smoke. I have a rebuild kit on order for my '01 HX35W, it is going on also. It dyno's 260hp/700tq now.

I would think some good rubber fuel line should work fine, the return is not high pressure.

Hauled a hot load for my son to Flagstaff yesterday. Blew the soot out of the old truck because I had a pre scheduled customer for a 10 am pickup. I preloaded the night before so I could leave early and get back in time. Running 67 mph on the two lane and 77 on the freeway, 259 mile round trip only netted 12.39 mpg. This was a small load, 900# in my dump, so about 16k gcw. That stretch from Winslow to Flagstaff will suck some fuel. Had a big truck pull out to pass in front of me, then just stayed next to the truck he was passing, pretty sure it was deliberate. When I got tired of it and pulled off at a rest stop, I had 2 big trucks and several cars stacked up behind me. All the freeway truck stops are ripping off the trucks at 50 cents more for diesel than the down town stations, yet gas is the same. I guess they figure cars are more important. On the way home I stopped in Holbrook at the little park and checked all my running gear temps, just to stretch a little. Rear axle 175, tranny 175, t-case 150, engine oil pan 167, trailer tires 103-108, truck tires front 100 rear 110 and trailer hubs high 90's. It was a nice cool morning @ 77 ambient. I made it back with time to spare

Thank you, I figured there was more to it than just some numbers, like A/R..jeeze, over my head. I do live at high elevation 5800' and travel to 8000' all the time. That is good to know about elevation. That must be why I like it so well because it works. If I ever wear it out I will check into the 200gxe, if something better hasn't come along

https://mopar1973man.com/topic/17727-best-low-rpm-towing-turbo/?do=findComment&comment=231399 DAP, can you explain this post? How/why is the S200gxe a big upgrade over a K27? The K27 specs appears to be this: 60/70/18......the s200 is this: 57/70/14. I am not turbo literate, however, I was always under the impression the bigger the turbine housing the slower the spool and works better at high rpm with less drive pressure v/s the smaller housing. Yet, the K27 spools quick on my '01 and even seems to retain boost longer on an upshift than my oem HX35W. That tells me the center section including compressor and turbine wheels are heavier. The K27 ads say it is an upgrade over the HX35 for those that need a direct bolt in with the direct exhaust brake mount, same as the s200. It seems to be a fine turbo match for my '01, post 1 shows my power level. My EGT's are down some but not like I expected. Did I buy the wrong turbo? Is the s200 that much better? Thanks, Nick

Do I understand the K27 # as this....60/70/18? Copy and paste from the K27 description: "The K27 is capable of supporting up to 400HP. It features a 60/83.7mm Forged Milled Wheel (FMW) 7/7-blade design compressor to resist low- and high-cycle fatigue. The turbine is a quick-response, 70/58.83mm 12 blade advanced design cast in Inconel and provides great backpressure control. The turbine housing is a twin-volute, single-valve wastegate housing with 18.2cm2 nozzle area and an adjustable wastegate actuator that is preset at 1.8bar." I might have been better off with this one: https://www.dieselautopower.com/s200gx-e-dodge-ram-upgrade-turbo-12769880001