dave110

And they changed it in like 8 minutes. I know mines gonna take longer than that. Takes me longer than that to pre- fill my oil filter.

Now here's another question. Being a 99 3500 I have the HD t style steering. From the pitman arm there's a short link, then to an adjustment sleeve and the a longer rod link to the right front where it ties into the rod that connects the front wheels together. What's that longer rod called? Outer tie rod? Outer drag link?

Just reading over this again. Do you mean replace the bar or the bushing? Is it worth replacing the bushing? The stud end is tight yet.

It's human nature to question the installation. Believe me if I had a shop doing the work for me I would be cakllng and asking what they think they did wrong. Not that I'm immune to making mistakes. I make plenty. But I'm confident in how I installed these joints.Rumor has it in other ball joint discussions I've followed that there are different grades from Spicer that appear to look the same. Hopefully what you have are the good ole original ones. Me, I'll not take the chance again. Ball joints are no fun. Mike, IIRC you have AC Delco ball joints. There are several at Rock Auto. Do you know which ones you are running?

I've never ran bigger than the stock 215-85-16. Original Spicers did well which is why I chose them again. Apparently they have gone the way of Moog.

Probably depends on how many where consumed?

Yeah, it's the upper joint for sure @Me78569 I believe got 20k on Spicers. I thought that was bad at the time.Seems I beat his record.

There is a noticeable bump with a pry bar under the tire. I've read a little up and down is OK. I have about .005". I've also read no side to side is allowed. I have about .007". The NAPA (I think) joint on the other side has no bump.

Which NAPA did you get?

No problem. I have more

Looking over the truck for our annual safety inspection I noticed my Spicer ball joints have enough play to make me want to replace them after a hard 12,000 yes 12,000 miles. I thought I was doing well by replacing with the originals with the same thing that served me well. Like some have said over the years Spicer is not what it used to be, or there are different grades. These where in Spicer boxes and looked to be as original as could be. I will never use or recommend another Spicer joint again . I'm going with either NAPA or AC Delco this time. Just an FYI for those who are looking at ball joints

Looking over my truck for annual inspection. With the wheels on the ground and a helper turning back and forth I can see the bushing moving a bit on the end where it connects to the axle. Seems to me a rubber bushing would give a bit but I've read any movement is bad.Other end has no play. Should I replace? If so what is needed to do a 3 gen bar on the truck in my sig.? Is it worth it, and what kit is available? Is kit bolt on and go or are there mods. to be made?

Another beer wasted through my nose . Was not a synthetic one either.

Make sure you have extra bolts for the control arm. They almost always break trying to loosen them.

@BrianAtSmarty told me once that a 2001 could be flashed to work in my 99. Not sure if it goes the other way. There's a thread here somewhere about 8 months back. Contact him and see what he says. They make a recovery file from your VIN I believe and then re flash or something like that. I tagged him for you, maybe he'll reply.

I love rodeo arenas, hate hospitals. After Obamacare I'd rather take my 'cleanliness' chances in a rodeo arena. OK, I'm done

I appreciate the debate on this. I've always kind of been on the fence, I used to pre fill until a friend who worked as a GM tech. at the time told me they no longer recommend doing it. Then I stopped. Then I thought about filling through the outer holes to get the best of both worlds. But man it takes longer to fill the filter than to do the oil change. I'm on 'Me' time when I work on the truck anyway so no big deal. Seems like if you ask 10 people about it 5 will pre fill and 5 won't, but this debate brings some very good points to light on both sides, better than I've read anywhere before. Thanks. For me I guess I'll continue filling through the outside holes. Gives me time for another beer or 3. These oil changes are soon going to be a 6 pack affair

I'd probably not. They trashed the first drive train at 175k and now have 170 on the replacement. And sounds like they hit a moose with the front end. No mention of rust problems if any. Sounds like a pretty thrashed truck. But in the end it's up to you.

Auto or manual?

Are these compression fittings legal for road use? Some safety inspectors here frown upon even the screw type couplings.

^^^^ Hard to beat that.

Anybody ever....................... Pre fill through the outside holes. Filter gets filled, although slowly, and oil gets filtered through the filter.

I bought a stainless pre-bent front set from either fine lines or classic tube on e-bay. I had already replaced the rear by fitting and bending bulk line and knew what a pain that can be. You can also get a full set or a rear set. A little more money but worth it IMO.

Welcome aboard. Your only as old as you feel, and I feel pretty dang old some days. Some good reading for you above if you have not already found it.

Hello and welcome! You might do better if you post this in the 3rd gen. powertrain section. Probably more follow those sections than the intro. section. I know little about the CR engines, but on the 2nd gen. engines if a vacuum hose has broken or disconnected the pump will basically pressurize the crank case causing extra blow by. I have heard this many times and have witnessed it first hand on my truck. Again, I don't know if your newer engine is like the older ones or not but I would check that first. Also, many will say to take the oil fill cap off and lay it upside down over the hole. If it does not dance around and fall off the blow by is not excessive. Hopefully this helps and gives you a start. Best wishes!