dave110

About 16 ounces?

I know the feeling. I do more and more all the time.

Only thing I don't like about that is if you're forgetful like me and leave the switch on.............well you get the idea. That's why I spliced into mine. When I turn them off they are off no matter what, but when they are on the ECM will operate them normally and turn them off when I forget. My forgetter is getting better . Come to think of it I think you said you use a momentary switch would will also protect you in the event you forget.

Yep. Same theory. I considered this but the cost of a solenoid that size gets kind of pricey. Plus to do it right you should have 2 , 1 for each relay. There's 2 grids. When I saw the $75 E-Bay relays it just seemed like a better route to go.

I cut the wires leaving the special nice connector on the relay studs, butt connector and shrink tubed a wire of the same size to it, ran the wire to a toggle inside the cab, and back out to the other end of the wire that I cut and butt connector with shrink tube to it. I don't know if the original grounds ground through an ECM ground or if they are grounded to an external ground screw. Wire schematic might show that but for me it was easier to splice than to chase that down. After all, 89% of us are running around with the VP44 pump wire spliced in one way shape or form. Even the stealth cover needs a wire with a ring terminal spliced to it. Or run a second set of $75 relays between the battery and the original leads. Make that the 'manual' set that you control. The ECM would still see the OEM set and think it was in control of them and be happy. If the codes bothered me I would rather go that route for simplicity but the codes mean squat to me. I know they are there and what they mean.

I'm fairly certain the post title is a misprint. For future reference you have a 47 series transmission. But if it is in the 1996 truck in your sig. I would think you have a 47RH and not a 47RE.

Just food for thought. Tractorman switched the + relay triggers wires while I switched the -. Relay needs ground and hot to work. I chose to switch the grounds therefore leaving everything hooked up the way it is OEM except for the switch. And the switch is spliced in between.

I dunno if I'm getting too old, too simple minded, or married too long but I couldn't stop laughing after I saw this. I saved it too. I'm gonna get some mileage out of that one!

I keep a dedicated jar of Vaseline in my work toolbox for staff meetings.

Latest pic showing the new bumper.

80 steps would take me 10 years

I hope you're towing that back to PA. so I can buy it from you.

I do. Easy on and easy off. Seems to do a good job protecting and gives a nice shine. I am FAR from being an authority on this stuff though. I see our mechanic at work with so many bottles of new stuff that are probably better but I've never tried them. That reminds me. I'm down to about a 1/3 bottle of NF. With all 3 vehicles to wax this spring I need to get more. Used to be a little hard to find. Harbor Freight even has it now.

And I assure you that no rocks were harmed in the making of this video! The Ranch Hand surely paid for itself on that trip alone. That's a pretty good rigging/recovery job though.

Happy to help where I can, and it's not very often that I can.There's a reason for everything if you look hard enough. Like I looked and was able to see the beer part. I have a feeling it was beer that started this one .

Your'e welcome!

I like free beer and cold ice cream but not together. The more parts I have the more beer it usually takes. The more beer it takes the less money I have for parts. Its a vicious cycle. What was the point of this again?.....................

Just enough to lightly coat, like you would put oil on a piece of metal to prevent rust. I have a small squeeze can I use to put a few drops on and spread it around with a finger. A small brush would help also. I thoroughly clean each terminal and clamp prior to assy. and then apply the oil over top.

X2. I've had zero issues with any corrosion since I started using oil.

I have the 3320. Works well for AC noise. Only like $40

W Where did you find that chart? I'd like to compare the 215/85/16 on my truck with the 235/80/16 on my trailer. Thanks

Yeah, disconnecting from the battery will not give a code. That's not an option for me because I need the grids some mornings and I'm not about to disconnect, pop the hood, re-connect, start, disconnect, repeat, repeat, all winter. which is why I switched mine. Plugging in is not always an option here either.

Damn brave soul you are! Correct. Pre heat and post heat

Seeing that @notlimah 2002 does not give a CEL either, I wonder if it has to do with the IAT fooler or other electronic gizmos that you have installed? I have none of that stuff. I have 1 switch for both. I personally want them either both on for starting aid or both off for alternator longevity. This AM was 30 deg. and I did not use them at all. A little smoke and rattle for a few seconds but hey, what Al Gore does not see won't hurt us.