dave110

I'll try to dig around here in the industrial field, but I remember at our Loc-Tite seminar the one point the guy pushed about what makes Loc-Tite work is absence of air, presence of metal. Loc-Tite won't harden if you let the cap off. It hardens when someone touches the tip to metal instead of staying away and dropping it on, and then puts the cap on. I doubt there is a Loc-Tite the way we think of it that will work, although they do make some glue products too. Wonder if something like Lions Head gasket cement would work? It's a more pliable type of adhesive. Not sure how much heat it would stand. Loc-Tite doesn't like alot of heat either.

I'm pretty sure EMF's are splined. Unless you need that feature I would personally not recommend them. Once you go splined you can't go back to a regular joint.

Wife and kids were in Cody Sunday into Monday on the way to visit her sister outside of Laramie. I had to stay home to feed the animals and pay the bills

Question. Everyone says jack it up and turn the wheel to look for parts that are worn and loose. Jack stands under the axle, or under the frame so that the axle hangs loose with no weight? I have done and see pluses and minuses to both ways. What the general feeling on it?

You can get ALOT of chickens in there I'll bet. Wonder if @GSP7has any more of that 'special fender cover up paint' to make the off color fender look better?

I'd never let her lean on my hood like that!!!! She'd get her elbows all dirty for sure.

And have 3x as many branches...………………….

A sledge and a wedge from HF that has a twist in it. Split them into 4 or 6 chunks and then into the hyd. splitter. The smaller ~30" ones I set the splitter up and roll them under with a cant hook. HF doesn't sell those edges anymore so I'm not sure what I'll do next time. I bought 2 and nearly have the second one wore out. You win the prize @JAG1. I didn't think any west coasters knew what white oak is. It took quite a few 12 ouncers by the end of that day. 16's would have been better.

I could have used that bar. An older pic. but fits in with the firewood topic. All bucked with an early 80's Echo 660 EVL, Loaded with a 1958 Ferguson TO35, and hauled with a 95 PSD. Sorry, it's what I had at the time. Got the flatbed after that and often wonder why I didn't do it sooner.

From what I remember the CAT was a last ditch effort of sorts to make emmissions requirements of the time. It worked but barely. After that we got twice as many valves and wires under the hood .

What year? OBD link has custom gauge capabilities if 1996 or newer. Not sure about oil press or trans temp though. Depends what sensors a 12V has to read from.

There are several different ways to mask a rusty Dodge fender. That's the best one I've seen yet.

Read bottom of pg.2 into pg. 3. Might answer your question.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/2427946-completed-1998-5-2001-ho-engine-swap.html FWIW

We're not seeing each others points, and for that I apologize. I did not throw ECM out there without good reason. If your truck takes 5 sec. to start it's not because it needs the grids to come on. Especially not at 60 degrees. They did not come on because the ECM was slow to boot, which points to it starting to fail. And the truck will not start until the WTS lite comes on. I have no way of knowing if you know this already or not so I brought it up in an attempt to help. I know because I've already been there and went through it. Sorry for any confusion. I'll step out now and let your thread carry on.

I didn't mean to tell you something you already know. Reason I brought it up is I have my grids switched off and only use them above 30 deg. Even then it fires right up. Just smokes and idles rough for a short bit. At 59 you should still get the grids.

You mean the did not come on? If so time to read up on ECM failures.

Yeah, that would not be good. For reference the small splines drive the input, the large ones the lockup clutch, and the notch on the end drives the pump. Do I have that right? If not correct me, it's been awhile. It would be good for @rogerash0 to know and understand.

You're right. Thanks for correcting that. 2 sets of splines to line up and then the notches on the end.

I've had mine out both with and without the transfer case. Unless you have a real jack I would separate them. It's alot of teeter totter and weight when they are together. Keep in mind though I have the $90 Harbor Frieght jack. It's not alot of extra work to separate them and makes life easier in my opinion. I had to jack up about 4" to roll it out on the jack. I would do it at home if it was me simply for the reasons you stated. If you run in to trouble you will be paying $8 an hour for the truck to just sit there. And the cross member. Don't be scared by all the horror stories you read. Look at it. It has to go up first as it sits in a wedge by design. Then it's free to go back and out. Might need to jack a little pressure under it and hammer tap it to break the rust free, but sledge hammers, gas wrenches, cussing and swearing are not necessary. I'll let the experts explain the TC seating since I'm sure there is a trick or two I don't know. One time it went right in and the other it was a challenge. You are right about the 2 clunks. One for the TC to go on the input and the other as it seats to the pump gear.Have a case of your choice chilling in the fridge for when you get done. It takes time the first time but is not that hard of a job.

I've always enjoyed being non-typical. Mine are on a switch.

You're welcome. And welcome to the forum

Yes, the 2 big wires at the battery on the drivers side. If you don't ever need the heaters and the codes bother you then that is the best way.

If you don't need them just disconnect the wires to the relays at the battery and no codes will be thrown.

Looks like the one in the back 'bailed' off before it could get it's picture taken.