dave110

I'm jealous of your fittings. Googleing it it appears this is a fairly common problem for some. I've just never had it. I'll try turning the washers and get some new ones as well. This stuff only happens when I need the truck

Treated the truck to new front pads today. The one caliper was kind of sticky so I put 2 re-man calipers on as well. Got it all bled out and went for a test drive and it all works well. I swear I can feel less rolling resistance. Got back and checked things over and noticed fluid weeping from the one banjo bolt. Checked the other one and same thing. In 30 years of doing this I've never had this issue. I tightened them a little more but I just can't get the copper washers to seal. I'm considering putting the old ones back on. I'm confident everything was clean when it went back together. Anyone ever have this problem and have any ideas? I hope this won't be like getting injector lines to seal.

I use it mostly when towing or hauling. You know when it unlocks to down shift and the truck seems to fall on it's face? I activate it and step on the skinny pedal and the truck just pulls and won't down shift. I have the power to get moving without dropping a gear and the switch allows you that control, as long as you have a trans. that can handle it. If you have an exhaust brake it also aid in stopping.

It will work normally when the switch is not 'on'. Very worthwhile upgrade as far as I'm concerned. I use a momentary push button so I don't forget and leave it locked.

Thank You. Actually, unplugging it worked very well. It did not re-gen nearly as often and picked up about 2 MPG. If the truck would not have been sold I probably would have deleted it at the time of the 67.5K service. I'm pretty sure I had Dad talked into it. No matter now. The young fellow who bought it most likely deleted it all and installed an axle dump with an 8" tip lol.

Not exactly. I just unplugged the stupid thing again and the code and issues went away. I'm still convinced from the reading I did that it was dirty and could not move fully causing the code. At 64k mi. it was on the edge of needing the 67.5k cleaning service anyhow. I'll never know for sure because the truck is gone now along with dad. I told the new owner and it was no big deal to him because the first thing he was planning on was deleting

I run that in my skid steer as well. I should probably just use it in the truck too, but I like that Rotella smell.

Well, I would not do an analysis with every oil change if that's what you mean. Tractor supply runs a sale where I can get Rotella for $3 a quart in the 2.5 gal. jug, and add a $12 filter and I'm at less then $50 for a change. But it's not really the money that I'm worried about as much as throwing away something that still has life left in it.

Dang! And I thought Pennsylvania DOT was anal.

They make a little digital 12vhour meter for lawn & garden equipment that only costs like $25. I often thought of wiring one up in the truck but never got around to it. But my question is TIME. 15 k miles takes me 3 years to accumulate. IDK, seems too long. I may just do this. Do they give a recommendation on time too, or just mileage?

Good point on idling hours. I do not idle in excess but it is something to think about.

OK. I guess I'll keep doing what I'm doing then. I'm well aware what the manual says, but then the manual is 17 years old now and oil quality has changed a bit since then. I would not mind going to syn for better cold weather performance if that would allow me to extend to a 1 year interval as well, but the price difference is too great if I still need to change every 1/2 year.

I do see 190 for all of my trips, but that is towing or hauling for the most part. When you say I will be fine do you mean once a year or every 6 months?

Now I know this has been covered a lot, but no one could ever really answer the question I have. Figured I'd ask here since we have our own oil expert on board. I know the change interval in the manual says 7500mi. My situation in a bit different being my truck only sees ~ 5000 mi. a year. It is a work truck and I usually only use it to pull trailers and haul. It does not see a lot of highway driving either. I use Rotella 15-w40 and change twice a year or every 2500 mi. Can I change only 1 time a year and be safe? Should I go to synthetic if I only change once a year? Our mech at work is old school and still believes in the 3 month 3000 mi. thing. Some of the vans there may only have a few hundred miles on but still get changed every 3 month. I believe that is over kill as oil has improved a lot over the years but I don't know. Is 1 year too long? 6 months too long? What would you do?

Thank you!. I really like my flatbed. So much more you can do with the truck when you really use it for a truck.This is the second one on the truck. The PA. salt ate the steel one away. Only thing with the Alum. is it makes it almost too lite. Truck rides rougher and I need 4WD a lot more. But at least it doesn't need painted every year.

Thanks Jag1. I think my sig. is showing. At least I can see it. I had to recently re-do my profile. Maybe I messed something up?

Now this info. is for my 300M in question and not my truck, so it may be different. My inspection mechanic says it 'might' be possible to get into the body computer and see a code for the malfunction or even turn the system off. Of course you need a $8-10k scanner to do so which he has. Sometime I'll get it to him and see. Thanks for the replies!

I figured out if you lock all doors manually the alarm does not arm. Going to use it that way for now while I gather some more info. hopefully.

Thanks, I'll give that a try. Where is this alarm central box you speak of?

Don't drop the trailer too far down if you have uneven roads like we do here. If the nose of the truck goes down the tail goes up and if it does so before the trailer goes over the hump you'll take the top of the bed corners off or even flatten the bed side right down. Ask me how I know. One reason I will never own another truck without a flat bed.

Hi all! I have a 300m that keeps setting the alarm off for no reason. Sometimes after a few hours and sometimes it takes close to a day. I would like to fix the problem, but for now I would just like to disable the dang thing so I can lock the doors again. I looked at the few fuses it has but none were marked for the S.S. Does anyone have any idea's for me?

Rosmella, that made me laugh! I've been running it (15-40) steady in the last 2 trucks with no problems. It does have an odor for the first 1000 or so, but I've come to like it. I also do my greasing and other periodic maint. while it's draining. You can chew up an hour or two without realizing it doing other stuff. If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, wait til it goes on sale. They run the 2.5 gal. jug for $30 here. That's $12 a gal. Pretty hard to beat. Old Sam Walton has enough && anyway .

Hmmm. Reading through the info on the link provided it seems a dirty EGR can stick open and cause the code. Some had success with a simple cleaning which is why I suspect it. Seems this code can be the result of several issues.

I mean the servo is trying to move the butterfly but can't because it's sooted up and needs cleaned therefore causing an over draw. At least that's what I understood some had problems with.

Thanks for the link. Plenty of information and possible causes. I'm guessing it's probably sooted up like everything else on a DPF equipped truck. Hopefully get to look over the weekend.