dave110

Ticking noise, Screech, screech noise, belt running crooked are a few things that come to mind. I'd pull the belt and feel for tightness or sloppiness. Do a typical bad bearing check in other words.

I've done that three

IAT, ECT, and the battery temp sensor all work together to control when they come on and off. Speed sensor plays a part too turning them off at 18mph I think. Mike taught me that it's possible to have 100+ IAT and 190 ECT and still get grids on if the battery is still not warm. Weird setup if you ask me. Most likely driven by trying to meet idle emmissions at the time.

Can anyone say wheelie machine!? Probably the same guy that invented this.

I had a cracked rotor n my Pstroke one time that ticked every time it went through the pads. Just a thought............

Got ya. I thought maybe that's what you meant but was not sure. You know how a pot squeals on the stove when it gets too hot, that's what I thought might be happening after seeing Mikes picture of the grids drawing 400A. Evidently the fuse links don't always work. Maybe it's possible your grids intermittently stick on causing the intermittent problem your having? Just thinking out loud here. I'm sure the poor alt. would go nuts trying to keep after a 400A draw!

Sorry for being dense here, but what do you mean by a slight squeeze my noise? Reason I ask is because Mike had a pic. of some grids drawing 400A and the fusible links were not letting go. Wonder if that's what you have? Sorry if I'm missing something in your post.

I got started last weekend. Went for a drive, heard a terrible noise, got out to find my fuel tank laying on the road. One of the straps rotted through from the underside and I didn't see it. Luckily it didn't fall completely off, the 1/2" supply line was still intact, and I carry a good selection of ratchet straps with me. I was able to strap it and make it home. Needless to say the rest of the day was spent under the truck instead of on top where I wanted it to be . Maybe this weekend I'll continue the testing.

I can do that. Only thing is I only switch them on to pre-heat to start the truck. Once running, they go off as soon as they unload. In other words I don't manually switch them off under load, I wait for the computer to turn them off and then I turn and leave them off. Essentially I'm not using them anymore and with spring coming they will stay off. On thing I want to try is to measure amp draw on the 2 or 3 sets of grids I have and look for differences. The set I have in the truck now pulled 200A with my inductive ammeter. I realize it's not a NASA accurate way to measure but for comparison sake it will be OK. I'll let you know what I find.

I look forward to that day. Until then, my grids are staying on a switch and only used to start the truck.

I see your point. For me and my truck though I will continue to check with the stock loads on. I'd rather test under more normal running conditions and get a warning sooner than later.

Thanks for clearing it up. Don't know how I missed it all these years. Just seems odd to me that we check at idle with no load when we go down the road at 2000rpm with at least some type of load typically. I guess I'm in the 'safe' zone after all then.

I'm saying all stock loads. Not winches, extra stuff, etc. When I go down the road the lights are almost always on and the heater or AC depending on time of year. I think the base line has already been established, just want your readings to fall in the good when your out put is at it's worst. I'm interested to see what @Mopar1973Man says. I want to be sure too that I'm doing this right.

Absolutely it did. My AC noise goes from .04 to .09 when the grids cycle. Someone clear me up on this. I always test with all loads ON. The more loads ON the higher the AC noise will be, and I want to see what it is at the highest point, not the lowest.

.03 is pretty darn good. My new Bosch is at .04. Did you have all power sources on? Lights, heater blower, etc. FWIW, disabling the relay trigger wires will NOT give a CEL. I've been running that way for awhile now. I put the grounds on a switch. You will get codes though which is no problem for me but I can see you would have an issue in Commiefornia.

@Mopar1973Man. That inductive ammeter you showed a few pages back. I scored a vintage Blue Point set over the weekend. When I get it I can send it to you to check your amp. draw if you wish. Let me know. I want to check mine too and compare the grids in the truck now to the spare set I have. The loose grounds in the wire harness these guys are finding are interesting finds, but I'm feeling the source of the problem lies with the grids also. I have a feeling it will get figured out here sooner or later.

All classics. You don't see any OBS Fords or Chevy's there. Or even a first gen Dodge. I'm telling you, these second gens will be classics one day.

That's what was wrong with the other one. Fixed that and it works. Now the one in question has the wire intact and has around half a vlt flowing through it. Thanks for the reply though. That is definitely something to look for .

Post some pics when you're done if you don't mind. I'm sure it's been done before too. I'm just curious. I wouldn't mid if mine went away.

I like that! They also have a gray primer one with the rear wheel well all bondoed up. E-Bay has the 2 pack set. Sad part is there's quite a few around here that look like that............or worse.

Looks right to me, but I'm not familiar with the true/avg. part. My meter isn't that fancy. You have it on avg. What happens when you put it on true?

Don't mean to hi jack, but how do you just delete the ABS? Somehow 1 line from the MC would have to divide into 2. Can you get some kind of 'T' for that? And then just unplug it and put up with any codes?

You sure you can kick that high? He's like 7ft. tall from the picture I saw. Sorry, I just had too. The Dave's gotta stick together!

A bit of expense would be involved in this 'test', but how about replacing grids and relays with new and see if the problem goes away?Really isn't much else to go bad in the system other than the heater ground wire. What about that connection? Can't say I've paid much attention to that one. A quick E-Bay search shows a new setup can be had for around $200. It's easy for me to spend your money though.

Oh Wow! I got it now. That is scary! I'd think anything shy of a 1/0 would turn into a fusible link sooner than later at that amperage . What are they supposed to be rated at?