dave110

Stole this from somebody's C.L. add. There's always a better way .......... just depends how you look at it I guess

O.K., How do you know?

So you know what the looks like. Your crazy man, I've never had to put more than 34 in mine

Dang! That's the cleanest tank top I've ever seen!

I'm confused which is nothing new, but which pump is hot wired? LP, VP or both. I would not run with a hot wired LP. Use a relay and trigger it off the OEM wiring. Otherwise if you were in a wreck with fire and a cut fuel line you would be pumping fuel on the fire until you shut off the key. As long as you are not knocked out and remember to turn it off no big deal. But why take the chance? As far as priming the system after VP44 install there are many methods. The last time I did it the method on Blue Chips site worked best for me.

Good to know! Thank You!

Hmmmm, I seem to remember talk of this before but I don't remember now. I bought the speedy sleeve as a set and it came with the seal and the tool for installing the sleeve. The sleeve is only maybe .015 thick, but I think that may be too much for the stock seal. As for Cummins parts i'm not sure who your dist. would be in Arizona. I would google Cummins and it should tell you. If you need to mail order you can get from anywhere. The one in Harrisburg, PA is an east coast warehouse and always had anything I needed in stock.

I think I got it now. Thanks guys!

So with DEF there is no DPF? Is the DEF consumed or discharged?

Hope I never have to deal with this stuff but I like to learn. With a DPF the engine basically over-fuels to burn hot and burn out the DPF, correct me if I'm wrong. What does DEF do? Does it burn also or is it just a cleaner that is pumped through? If so what happens to it when it's done cleaning? Probably a dumb question to you guys but I don't have these systems so I need educated. Dad has an 09 and burned the second tail pipe off already, and it re-gened, melted the plastic on the P.B. cable and locked the wheel up because it would not release. He was nose front to a building with a trailer on when he found it..... what a mess. Thanks for the education in advance.

i thought you already have one

I feel the same about mine but I would love a manual. I get so close to doing a swap but then consider that cost plus the fact I could probably spend 4k in the body shop to undo the Pennsylvania winter salt effect and think " why don't I just take that 8 grand and buy a rust free Texas truck like the one above? What to do? Oh well, back out to the shop to replace the other rust eaten inboard brake rotor.

And you get the cancer for free!

Getting the joints out was really no problem. Much easier than I thought. It's not the rock salt that's so bad but the liquid pre- treat they started using a few years back. Sodium hydro chloride or something. All the DOT trucks have a big liquid tank on the back now and what ever that stuff is eats vehicles for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Ha, Ha, but seriously, the road salt does wreak havoc on the wooden buggy wheels and steel rims. Salt shrinks the wood and they need to refit the rim on. Blacksmith has a special tool he showed me to do the job. Kinda makes ball joints seem easy

Yeah, Nobody in any other state needs to tell me about road salt. PA. has got to be the worst.

Hmmmm.. where did all my pics. go? Here they are hopefully]

Finally got em in. Was not too bad a job really. I had never seized the hub when I replaced it so that came apart easy after I had the bolts out. Not sure why they where so tight. I also soaked everything with PB Blaster every week for 4 weeks prior to doing the job so that helped too. It still took a 3 foot pipe on the end of my H.F. breaker to get the bottom nut loose. Say what you want about H.F. but my stuff has never let me down . I also used the ball joint press from them which worked great. The only thing I could have used was a 2.25" I.D. x 3" long tube but I made it work. Put some pressure n the joint and tap on the side of the casting to help free the joint and you won't kill your press. . With my 99 the joints are in the knuckle so I could take the whole thing and put it in a vise to remove the joints. . Put a new inboard rotor on while I was in there since it all has to come apart to change rotors on a 99 and put it back together using the torque sequence in the supplied instructions and done. Now..... where did I put my beer

Then maybe I can get this......

Wife's been wanting a Mustang again now that the kids are older. I think I found one.

80w 90 is the original and still the best. If that's not working you need to go with a medium duty truck.

Personally I would change that back to where the ECM triggers it thru a relay. If you where ever in an wreck with fire that pump would keep pumping fuel on the fire until you turn the key off. Not a problem as long as you're conscious and remember to do it.

Seems the best bet is to get a used one from a running wrecked truck that is being parted. They show up over on CF. That's what I did for ECM. Kind of a crap shoot but then so is a rebuild for a lot more money.

When you key on does the lift pump do it's 2 second run? Will the truck start without the WTS lite?

Ha, Ha, Anyone can do an EGR delete on that. Just tear a hole in the seat of your pants