dave110

Truck is my dads 09. He's not in good shape health wise so I've been running the truck the last week or two getting it ready to sell. The EGR's been unplugged for a few years and has helped a lot, but I plugged it back in so the CEL would go away before I list it and it did as usual and has been out for a few days. Today I got a CEL for a 245A code, something to do with turbo solenoid voltage. I cleared it and it stayed out for now, but it's only been 15 mi. or so. Any idea what it means and what to look for? Reminds me again why I refuse to get rid of my 99

Hmmm. Interesting. I followed the torque converter discussions pretty closely when I was ready to put one in years ago and the general idea HAD been that a triple is a no, no with a stock input for fear of breaking it. I talked to Frank at Revmax at the time and he sold me on a billet big single after talking about me and my truck. Now I tow ~ 9k with the Edge on 2 and run empty on 5 and my TC won't even offer a hint of shudder, and I know what shudder and slip feels like. It's been in for about 35k and is still working like day one. Not trying to disagree with Dynamic at all, I realize he is quite popular around here. But is the thought now that a triple disc OK on an otherwise stock trans.?

Must be related to this guy. Fox Hunter.bmp

I need to put plastic shopping bags on my mirrors every spring because of the cardinals. Probably my punishment for running with the tow mirrors out :). Maybe give it a try. My truck is white and no other shiny stuff though so I can't help you there.

Oh yeah! That was the talk back here in dairy country a while ago. Cow farts full of methane gas are contributing to global warming. The EPA needs more to do.

Well, I'd prefer steak instead. The more cows we eat the better. Ya know all the methane gas they emit is melting the icebergs . OK, I'm done

That's normally how it works, but I'm skeptical now also. The EPA would love to have our old vehicles off the road but they don't want to die. One way to kill them would be to force us to drink the kool aid in the form of a new oil that lacks something our engines need, or adds more of something they don't.

Would an oil analysis show anything worth while? Run some CJ and test it and then some CK and compare. Just a thought.

Just curious. What made you choose SAC's over VCO's?

Took it for a pretty good trailer pull run today and it didn't miss a beat. I agree that injectors are on their way out. My long idle yesterday morning made it noticeable. I'll wait until DAP gets their pop test machine fixed and order some 7x8.5s???

Yes, I should have mentioned FP is 20psi, AC is in check, and no codes. I'll see if and how often it does it again and report back. Good to know about the injectors. One thing I wanted to upgrade anyway. While we're talking injectors. I have genuine Bosch cores to send in. Would it be advisable to have nozzles put on my bodies as apposed to getting aftermarket units? I'm thinking that would be about the same price as buying a whole unit in aftermarket but I'd still have Bosch bodies. I'm assuming the bodies are the same just the nozzles are different. Would DAP do that? Does it even make sense?

That's good news! I was needing an excuse for some 7x8or 9's. It does have more of a haze at idle when cold than it used to. So you had a miss as well?

Started up today to hook up my trailer for the next morning. It was chilly so I left it idle about 5 min. to give the batteries a charge because I knew I would only be moving a short distance. Got under my trailer and got a hiccup. While dropping the trailer on it did it twice again. Pulling up my hill to turn around it did it once under load and was fine after that. I'm hoping it was a fluke and I'll find out tomorrow if it continues, but I'm just wondering what to look for. I'm leaning towards something electrical but would like to hear from others. Truck ran fine the day before.

While getting new cable ends soldered on at the local starter/alternator shop the other day I was stocking up on some electrical supplies I needed and spotted an Innova 3320. I ended up buying it and it is a really nice little meter that reads AC volts down to .000. And only $38.

Great! One suggestion. Somewhere you posted a link for a nifty calculator to figure out the offset for the vol. efficiency. That would be a good addition to this article along with an explanation on which number goes where.

Thank you. Hey Mike, can you post a screen shot again of what the values are supposed to be. I can't seem to find it. Also, how do you know what the values should be for other vehicles?

Good info. Now a few questions. As long as water level is above the plates no need to add correct? Mine rarely seem to need any. And an equalize charge is what exactly? I mean like how many amp charger for how long? I'm confused. Shouldn't an amp draw test be done between the pos. lead on the other battery? And a voltage drop test be done with the ground?

I think it's working now, but as said above it doesn't load the VIN for the truck but it recognizes each vehicle. I also noticed there are 3 pages of gauges and I will use 1 page for each vehicle so I don't have to change them every time I switch. What's this torque pro thing and where do you get it?

Just put a pair of Interstates in mine too. The one in my 300M is over 9 years old and still very strong. Advance Gold ones they replaced only went 2 years with the same maintenance. Of course they won't warranty them because they put out 400A, less than half their rating. Never again...........

Extended cab do not open. Quad cab do. As far as I know regular and extended cab doors are the same and round on the bottom as stated above. Quad cab front doors are square on the bottom and the round part is on the back door. Pull out the plugs on the bottom and spray some rust preventive of you choice in there. Leave the plugs out to let any moisture drain out.

Thank you. That's just what I was hoping to hear, that it was similar to the 17mA. I'm pretty sure it's the CTM doing it's normal thing then as that's where the draw is. None of the rest showed anything. Now that I have these new Interstates in, I hold a charge of about 12.6-7 over night so I'm pretty sure that's where the problem was all along...... junk batteries. Just wanted to be thorough with it too though. Still steams me that a 3 year free replacement battery that puts out 1/2 it's rated amperage after 2 years is not eligible for free replacement . Thanks for the advice!!

Hmmmm. Today I took it out of the Tahoe and put it in my 300M. No VIN or anything came up for the 300M. It knew I changed vehicles because it told me to edit my vehicle in the editor, but did not display the VIN or fill in any of the info that comes along with it like it did the Tahoe. When I put it in there it had most of the info filled out just by reading the vin. like engine size etc. I'll have to put it back min the Tahoe and see if it changes but it appears I must be missing something.

The IOD fuse controls it. I figured it out by accident. pull the fuse and you can hear the retractor click and it will lock and not come out. Put it back in and click again, it works. Do an amp draw test on that circuit and see what it's drawing

@IBMobile. I put a new set of bats in today and noticed a .03V drop in voltage when I have the 50A battery fuse in. Take it out and the batteries climb up .03V again. Is this too much?

Is there something special that needs to be turned on? Mine doesn't do that.