dave110

That's another area where us 99 guys got cheated . I'm not sure when the twin pistons showed up but we don't have them. Seems the front brakes are still plenty strong compared to the back. I'm with you on the reman calipers. I like to do things myself also, but an in-shop (my shop) rebuild is worth more than $60. If I was retired, OK, but I'm not. So I figure my time in to things like that.

Don't forget to pull the cluster and remove the bulbs . Not that I would do such a thing

I got tired of my second failing Glowshift fuel pressure gauge and put in an ISSPRO EV-2 that matches my pyro. It's so nice to have a gauge that reads correctly that I can trust. I still have a liquid filled mechanical under the hood for back-up and this ISSPRO agrees with it 100%. Glowshift from new only read 5psi when the mechanical read 18psi . Did I mention I like ISSPRO?

Yeah the extension trick usually works great . Another thought I had if its not too late. If you are like many of us running around with ABS/BRAKE lites on, it is often caused by the front ABS sensors failing. The only way to replace them on an inboard rotor truck is to remove the rotor and all that goes with that because the rotor covers them. So now would be a good time to replace them. Of course if you did new hubs you got new sensors anyway.

At least we don't have torque management

Just another thought. When you put the studs back in you can use a stack of washers and a nut and pull them in by turning the nut. Some grease on the stud will prevent galling. They tell you to use new studs too.

122 ft. lbs. for the hub to knuckle bolts, 175-180 for the spindle nut. I can't find a spec for the adapter but I did mine the same as the wheel nuts at 150. You may need a crows foot depending how deep your socket/torque wrench combination is.

Just an update for those who may be following. I pulled the plug on the ECM. The screw that holds it in was loose. I did Yankneck's trick with the dielectric grease and cycle'd the plug 3 times and put it back together and it's been perfect since. I'll keep saying my prayers.....

I'll have to look it up. I think it's in the FSM. The hub nut is something like 185? If you plan to reuse the hub assy. be careful with it! You will need to drive the wheel studs out of it to het the rotor off. I'm told its possible to separate the assy. if not done right. A press would be best. I cut some pipe about an inch longer than the studs to go over the studs and put it on my anvil and drove them out. Put a lug nut on flush with the end so you don't damage the threads. The first one I did I couldn't get the hub off the axle splines so I pulled the whole axle out and did it that way. Either way if you don't know the condition of the hubs now would be a great time to replace them. It stinks to have to tear half the axle apart to change a rotor but you will get through it. And in case you're wondering there is no easy way to retrofit . Even an axle swap requires some cutting and welding if my research was correct.

I'm not sure about the 12v's but the 98.5 & 99 were inboards. There are several things I know now that I wish I would have known before I bought a 99. If so I probably would have waited too.

The 99's have inboard rotors. A real engineering brain fart. You need to remove the hub assy. The wheel studs go thru the rotor and into the hub assy so it all needs to come off, adapter, axle nut, hub etc.

So if I am getting a new ECM and it has to be flashed to my VIN before it works what do I do? Install it in my truck and then have it towed to a dealer to do the flash? Or will the truck start and run enough to get it there? I'm totally dumb on this.

Yeah, I don't really trust them but who else do you go to? Does the ECM need to be in the truck to relash?

Thanks for the info. What site is that? Do they flash it in the truck or must it come out? Sorry if it's a dumb ?? but I've never had it done. I plan to buy a used ECM and have it flashed before I put it in the truck if that's possible. But maybe if my original is out of date a reflash will help.

If I get an ECM the same year and transmission as my truck do I still need to have it flashed to my VIN? If so do they need the truck or can I just take the ECM? And what do I ask them for? Just a reflash for my VIN with updates? I just want to know what I'm doing before I go to a dealer for this. Thanks

So for the last week the truck has worked perfectly. Key on, 2 sec. LP run, fire right off. Until today. I made 3 stops after the truck was up to temp. First 2 no problem, LP run at key on and instastart. On the 3rd stop key on and no LP run and no start. Key off and on again and I noticed the WTS lite was on and it shouldn't have been because I was at full temp when I shut it off. I waited til it went off (5-7 sec.) and then it started. Made another stop and no LP at key on and WTS lite flashed on & off a few times and then started. Whenever I don't get the LP run at key on I can pretty much bet I'll have to crank 10 sec. to get it to start and whenever the LP does run on key on I can pretty much bet it will start instantly even on a 10 degree morning unplugged. Assuming the 2 sec. LP run at key on is not needed what do I have going on here? This is only when engine is hot (so far) and wiring to the wiper fuse made no difference.

Why was it made that way then? Curious

Copy /paste is impossible? If key on pulse is not needed why was it made that way? A little bit of drainback , which I know does not happen in the real world, and the prime is necessary to give the VP fuel at startup. So back to topic why is my LP getting sporadic pulses from the ECM?

Would you still get a 2 sec prime at key on and 25 sec run at starter bump?

OK so I have my LP wired to the wiper fuse and it runs as soon as the key is in RUN. My truck does not seem to like to start that way. I wonder if pushing 18psi to the IP for the 30sec or so it takes the grids to cycle is not good? Starts kinda hard warm when it sits for 10 min or so. I put a test light on the factory LP wire which the Raptor uses for a relay trigger and found out that the clunks I was hearing match the light pulses. So when I bump the starter the test lite goes on, off,on,off,on,off and then sometimes stays on for the 25 sec and sometimes stays off. Also when I key on sometimes it lites for a second and sometimes not. When the engine is running the lite is always on. I figured this was the case because I never lost fuel pressure when driving. So the ECM is not turning the LP on like it should. WHY? I like this truck but I never know if it's gonna start or not. Blue Chip IP is only 3 months old and runs great. Why isn't my lift pump turning on correctly?

Pretty sure if the engine stops running the ECM stops the trigger signal too. Maybe I'm wrong

I was thinking in the event of an accident the LP will continue to run and fuel the fire as long as the key is on. And if I'm knocked out and can't key it off....... ouch. I used a double fuse tap ( if that's what you call it ). Plugs into where the existing fuse was an has place for 2 fuses. One to replace original and the other to fuse whatever you are hooking it to. Comes with a short lead. Kinda expensive but nice to use.

Got some answers today. I swapped relay out with a known good one, no luck. Checked/greased all connections, no luck. I then got it to do the clunk, clunk and no run. Quickly, before the free 25 sec pump run timed out I checked trigger wire and no power. Worked the key for awhile until clunk, clunk, pump run and checked the trigger and now power at trigger wire from ECM.Then I put 12+ to the trigger and the LP runs instantly smoothly with no clunk at all. Thanks for the suggestion Mopartech. I now have the trigger wired to the wiper fuse which I don't like for safety reasons but I can trust it to turn on now. So for some reason the ECM is giving sporadic signals to the relay trigger. What can I do about that other than throw a $2000 ECM at it?

That's right. The trigger relay is what I was referring to. I should have a lifetime warranty but I want to check everything else out before I call because I'm sure they will tell me to do so. I did have the pump itself apart and all is good inside. Did not look at the motor yet. Just wondering does Raptor use a brushless motor?