Bullet

I thought about doing that too but the direct replacement part was cheap and super easy to install.

Glad to hear it. Mine was pretty much the same...it disintegrated in my hands. I don't expect to have to address any vacuum leaks again...or at least not for many more years.

Just installed mine yesterday...very easy compared to other things I've done to the truck. I'm not sure if the extra $4 will affect install difficulty but I'm gonna guess that it won't.

Congrats on your triumph! Enjoy your new toy!

It sure did...they went up $4 since I ordered. Sorry guys...I didn't see that one coming.

Sounds just like my cabal owned bank...they accept my direct deposits but can't withdrawal cash. They closed up shop while the coronahoax is being played out. Bunch of peckerhands...

Yep that'd be my guess too. I just got mine in today. I'll get it changed out as soon as this heat eases up...98° today and feels like 113°. I'll can only drink half my beer before the other half evaporates.

Thanks for the reply @sooxies! I did some more online digging and found this. It's the entire assembly of lines and fittings with the one I needed all hooked together and all brand new for $13.82 and $9 shipping so I pulled the trigger on it. Mopar part number is 55056421AA in case anybody else runs into this problem. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mopar,55056421AA,vacuum+hose,6908

I popped my hood recently and found the vacuum line that runs from the firewall to the vacuum pump just laying there...still attached only to the firewall fitting that I previously replaced. On closer inspection of the vacuum pump side where it is supposed to be connected I found that the rubber 90° elbow that receives it has now degraded to the point of failure. I've been looking online for a replacement rubber elbow but can't find anything specific to my truck...only come across HELP kits with several generics and ones that specifically fit Volvos and Mercedes. They all look like they might work OK but can't be sure. I'd really rather have the exact replacement instead of guessing at a cost for each wrong guess. Can you guys give me some ideas on where and how to find it? I appreciate any an all suggestions.

Only way to tell is to separate the cartridge from the turbine housing and take a looksee at the turbine wheel. The safe play is to go with another hx35 or similar size to avoid having to get studded and upgrading your clutch. If you don't mind getting studs then you can't do any better than a Borg Warner SXE62. It will increase power further and tow like a champ while keeping temps in check. Your clutch may or may not like it depending on your driving habits.

I agree with this. These are the only 2 reasons this could happen...either a malfunctioning electric gauge or a malfunctioning check valve. It sounds like you have already eliminated one of those...my money is on a bad gauge. As with lift pumps a mechanical fuel pressure gauge is much better than an electric one. Also put a strainer inline before check valve if you don't already have one...that will keep trash out of the check valve.

That's pretty much what I found when I was looking at them. The Dana 70 is kinda like the wicked stepchild...not much of a selection out there for them.

Niiiiiiice! Hope you win enough in Vegas to replenish what that cost and maybe a little more for another turbo! Let us know how it all works for when you get it all in.

I think you misquoted me there big guy. It was Mike that said "We are both in our 50's" not me. And he was referring to him and his significant other, not me and him. Besides getting it completely wrong you nailed it. I'm in my 40's and don't have the wear and tear or battle scars of a married guy...so I still look in my 30's...which means I can still pull the 20's. Oh yeah...no worries Mike...thought it was funny too.

Haha...maybe so. But I think I'm interested in something a little different you are and hence in a different kind of girl. I like the shallow ones cuz they are usually not quite as intelligent and thus much less work. And the kind of qualities I look for in their hips and back have nothing to do with their ability to get into the truck.

To me degrees is pretty much just a personal preference...you're not gonna harm your truck with either. I've also heard that 190° is stock on our trucks...which is pretty much the temps I got before I changed. Also heard that the hotter they run the more efficiently they run...so I slapped in a 200°. I haven't noticed any difference in mpgs but the heater sure does work more efficiently. And since all the 6.7's run 200° I figured if it's good enough for them...

That surely could have an effect on it in keeping ambient heat from loitering under the hood around the block. All my gas motors idle hotter than my diesel does...they will keep the thermostat open at idle while my diesel will keep it shut. My sport car will open the thermostat from a cold start just idling in the garage in just 3 minutes...crazy fast. But maintains that temp just fine after open and with the electric fans ripping.

My gas motors will act the normal way that you're talking about...but my diesel is different the same as yours is. Mine will not reach thermostat temp unless I'm driving it. Even if I just let it idle after I've been driving it will cool low enough to not open my 200° thermostat until I start driving again. Diesels just idle cooler than gas motors do. Another thing I've noticed is that the fluctuations lessen substantially the longer I've been driving it. If the coolant in the radiator is closer to ambient temp I'll get the biggest fluctuations. If the rad coolant is warmer from being driven and circulated through the motor for a while I'll get more stability.

That's definitely a 2" spacer above your coil spring. Your back looks stock unless you have a flipped back spring shackle which is not visible in the pic. You should be sitting level with a 2" spacer up front and stock height rear. I agree...it kinda sucks to drive. It's not my daily driver so I don't mind it so much...and the ladies like it so that also kinda helps make it a little more acceptable.

If you're tired of buying $1000 VP's my best advice would be to spend $500 on a mechanical lift pump and your VP buying days will be over. The stock lift pump does not provide enough pressure to cool the VP properly...even if it is working. So it's just a matter of time before it happens again...kinda like what you just experienced. My original VP is still going at 19 years old and 208k miles and has been putting out way more fuel and power than what was intended by Cummins. Maybe I'm just lucky but I don't think so. It only had the stock lift pump for a very short time...then went through 2 FASS failures before I finally wised up and went mechanical. I don't know how many years/miles a VP will last yet when always properly fed...but apparently it's gonna be a really long time.

That's awesome and very inspiring! I'm almost 700k miles behind you but it seems I have alot to look forward to. Congratulations...give us another shot when you hit 1 million miles...

It's been a while since I've had them but I measured before and I think I remember measuring a hair over 4 inches...maybe 4.25ish?

I agree that is the best way to measure. I don't know what size lift you got but I am 36" front and 36.5" back and I'm about 12" front and 10" back. So just going by that I would guess that you are 2" front and back. Maybe you have a 2" spring spacer on top of your coils up front and maybe a bigger block and/or add-a-leaf in back?

I mostly agree with this except for the very last part. I have yet to discover a con of the mechanical pump. But there's really no contest between the two. I can't believe they are the same price...the electric would have to be 1/3 the price of the mechanical for me to even consider it...and that's the only way I would consider it. I have the Fuel Boss and it is awesome but DAP has the Assassin pump on sale for $525 and Powerdriven Diesel sells a nice mechanical also. The unavoidable fact is that at some time in the future your $580 electric pump will fail again and risk taking your VP with it. Their warranty is great about replacing their pump failure but doesn't do anything to help your VP if it gets taken out at the same time. That's on your nickel. Once you get a new replacement pump you will have some time elapse before the problem happens again and again...no thanks. The mechanical pump is more of a permanent solution.

That sounds just fine to me. Mine will do exactly the same except I have a 200° stat...so mine sits at 190ish and goes up to 200 then back to 190. It's a self purging system so it will eventually remove any air by itself.