pepsi71ocean

Another member had stalling issues with larger injectors when he popped to I think 330 or 340 bar. I believe that the stalling when hot is related to too much pop pressure and too much timing adjusted. Speaking to several places The conclusion is 1 degree of timing per 10 bar of pressure raised. so if your injector is popping at 280 and you raise it to 320 bar, your looking at 4 degrees of timing adjustment. Now that's still only 2 degrees of timing over (stock), but with a Smarty S03 set to 18* of timing your now looking at 16 or so. But the 280 bar would have been closer to 20*. I believe that raising pop pressure is the way to go with larger injectors. Even DAP stated that their larger injectors are popped higher. But the questions is where does the crossover between increased pop pressure and reliability cross with stalling. I believe that the larger you go the more you can raise it without issues. Smaller injectors will not see the same benefits as larger injectors will because of the pressure required to atomize the fuel is greater. So far my tables I have show 100's at 320, 150's at 330 and 200's will be fine at 340bar. But I don't have much for information about anything lower. Here's how my pop theory works. When you have a larger injector set to a lower pop pressure(be it time age mileage etc), your advancing the timing and that allows for more time for combustion. However when you raise your pop pressure your also shortening the duration. The amount of fuel being delivered is less, but it is now at a higher velocity. Your changing the mechanical timing on the motor. Similar to adjusting the timing on a P pump and raising the pop to compensate. When you raise your pop pressure your looking at shortening duration, and the center of the duration is still the same, but instead of injection happening over say 10 degrees of crank timing, your looking at maybe 6 or 8 degrees. Shortening the duration raises cylinder pressure and smoke control. But that is where the mechanical offset advantages ends' and you need a programmer capable of adjusting timing to compensate for the raised pop pressure, a good example will be looking at the P pump with adjusted timing and higher pop pressure. WARNING I should also clarify that my stalling issues are also only in D range, not manual 1, I believe that I may have a valve body issue. Something that I'm working on getting to the bottom of. But I believe that one can safely pop 100's to 320 bar (mine are 322 to be exact), and you should see no issues. After they settle in they will be in the 310 range, and I'm hoping to get about 30,000 miles out of them before getting them readjusted. EDIT: I should clarify that when it comes to smoke control and the Smarty S03 that I should mention that changing the revo settings ie lvl 3-5-7-9 changes how quickly the timing locks on the smarty at 18*. The quicker you hit that timing changes based on the pop pressure. So in theory smoke control on the smarty can be achieved with better tuning at raising pop pressures. But this is just how I've concluded in my mind. But raising the pop pressure did make a huge effect as my smarty is now almost smoke free. EDIT2: Fixed some wording, and added more information.

Can I ask why your running a 180 instead of a 190 then? I didn't know if this had to do with pulling grades or something of the like?

Interesting. Did they say what needed to be tweaked inside the valve body?

Maybe Jacob can clarify, but I was quoted $110 because they were already DAP injectors, and getting them repopped and such different? @Marcus2000monster If you decide to pop them, please let me know. I'm writing up an article about raising pop pressure and need more information to try and build a chart for injector size vs pop pressures.

My drivers side was failing when i did the drop test. I replaced it and the lock up issues went away, however i replaced the rest of the cables just to be safe.

usually when they fail they fail open. Its probably weak, my 190 I had in there from before was weak as well, and barely got to 185 under load towing. Sometimes they stick closed but you would clearly know that. the 195 is a great T-stat. My 200 is still in experimental phase even thought i've been running for i think 3 years now. But for winter operations its amazing.

I would also do a vDrop test on your ground cables from the engine to each battery.

EDITED: when checking for ground cables, My drivers cable was failing a vDrop test. That was my lock up issue with my alternator. all of the cleaning will not solve that, and since you are in the snowy part of the world I would check that out, ans my cables had corrosion inside of them. BOTH OF YOU GUYS I had similar issues to yours, and my solution was to not let the engine rpm's drop to low. My theory on my issues is that Torque Reversals coming out of the engine were causing chatter in the clutches, this combined with low rpm heavy throttle application like boosting into a turn at 1,200rpm's would cause this chatter. My smarty S03 on certain power levels will do this on my truck. But I need to stay on top of the gearing. I have found that built automatics will like to run around in 3rd unlocked or locked when it should be in 2nd gear. I had to up the line pressure in my 47re to get rid of that shudder, for me it felt like the the TC was slipping, or that odd wheel hop you get when your about to break traction. (or a bad driveshaft). If you manually downshift the truck when that happens see what your rpm's are, mine have to stay above 1400, if it drops much below that i get that shutter you guys are describing. At 40mph I run around in 3rd, and when in 3rd my built auto loves to lock the TC even at 1,200rpms at l think 30mph? anyways need to manually downshift a gear and see if your issue goes away. This is a byproduct of running a transmission with a tight converter.

I have my T tap for my fuel pressure gauge all of the way back by the drivers seat under the cab. I ran the T tap to the needle shutoff valve, to greese gun hose up into the upper engine room, where it converts to the nylon crap. I had my T tap closer to the VP but had water hammer. But from where I am now i have almost 10 feet of line in between the T tap and the fuel pressure gauge.

I tow with that t stat in the summer. I haven't seen much of a difference in temperatures other then it stats right around 197-202 even when towing. The motor is quieter at idle as the temperature rises above 195, I believe thats the ecm cutting the timing or fueling. @Mopar1973Man can explain this phenomena better. My mpg increased slightly from this mod, but the real increase is the IAT fooler. I wonder what a 190F would do there mike?

If that is your issue with the 75's then i would say 310 to 315 bar should get you fairly clean. You could try 320, but I would questions if you don't have enough fueling to offset the pop pressure, especially if you don''t have a programmer. Now granted my 100's only had 33,000 miles on them and they were smokey and laggy and popping off at 280-286 bar, and no amount of programming offset will alienate that. Thats a mechanical issue. My smarty burns dirty, and my 100's set to 320bar I have no lag and no smoke now. And I'm running an S03 with a 550rpm lower stall TC on my truck. It's only about $110 for DAP to pop and adjust them.

I would upgrade the internals, a billet input shaft and a flex plate, and an output shaft as well. Unsure about the billet single disk, you'll know when you hook a brake to it. A built auto will easily hold up to a comparable manual transmission(i believe), especially since your trans never saw boosted line pressure. Allot of the time the stock transmissions are 55--60psi at idle and about 100psi under load. My built auto runs 75 at idle and 180psi down the road. Big difference in terms of pressures to keep the clutches and lock up happy. I have no complaints about the HX35, and I may go mikes route with a HX40/35 combo down the road. This is why i went with a turbo mounted brake. I don't think you will be unhappy with Me78569's set up either. Ive heard that Fleece makes a great controller. Although, I have my qualms about the exhaust brakes on the 6.7's after running and towing with an 08 dodge. I don't know if it will be the same, but I would have to ask @Me78569 about that.

310 is specified by BOSCH. But I know my 100's were sett to 300 stock, and when I had them popped a few months ago they had dropped down into the 280 range. i would advise somewhere between 300 and 310 maybe 315, but nothing higher. I don't think that cold starting would be your issue, i believe that hot operations maybe your issue..

With 75's I think 320 maybe to high. Maybe closer the 310. When raising pop pressure you need to adjust the pop for the size of the injector. I think 320 maybe to high for 75's but If you do please let me know how the pop pressure effects your cold starting, stalling and pyrometer temperatures.

Glad to know hes safe!

the PacBrake locks up the Torque converter. As for a build, what do you have currently done on the transmission.. As for me, I just dropped the $1,800 for a Pacbrake PXRB. But I have a 99 with the HX35 turbo.

Sounds dumb but I was told to not adjust the stop, but to adjust the voltage below the idle voltage on the sticker?

I have the opposite issue. my motor is super quiet at idle when hot (coolant temp ~200F). Compared to when its cold its a snarling beast. EDIT: although I should mention that for me the motor gets fairly quiet much above 195F of coolant temperatures.

I'm the real odd duck here, and I''m still running a Dodge 200F t stat out of a 6.7L Cummins. She will bake food alright haha. Even at 0F out I can still see 200F temps out of my vents on MAX A/C in the winter. She opens around 208F and cycles between 197 to 202F.

This is really interesting to note..

Sounds like an an alternator on its way out. I would also vDrop test the ground cables as well and make sure that both are close and or passing. Mine was doing this too in humidity with the headlights on. The drivers side ground cable was borderline failing for me. and that was the root cause of the lock up issues for me. After replacing all of the battery cables (I did them as a precaution), I haven't had an issue since.

If they do/do not let me know so I can update the article.

I'm really curious about the flagship one's longevity as their reputation is less then stellar.

I second the FTE Resonator. I have a 4" TBE as well, and my resonator is farther up the pipe, and I have some steel attached to my pipe and it deadens the noise considerably. The nice thing about the FTE resonator is it still gives you performance, and flow. Second thoughts maybe to adjust valves.

Does the sticker go over the original backing plate that ED had? I like having the silver backing plate.