LorenS

I certainly wasn't old enough at the time to care, but this seems like one of the things Carter got right. As long as it's not overdone, this is a pretty good way for the US to express its displeasure with a policy of the host country. Obviously it would make news around the world, likely repeated almost constantly during the broadcast, for nights on end. It cuts off a little money, and it doesn't involve bullets or bombs. I don't know that Afghanistan instigated a fight with the Soviets.

Some timing parameters I feel haven't been talked about a lot, based on my search results in the past. The Low PSI Timing Reduction is one that is usually just mentioned in passing, but I found one thread where @Me78569 really explained it well. Based on that, I have had mine set at 4 degrees (which I beli ve tapers out with RPM), with 60% Timing Reduction Scaling. I found conflicting reports on whether the 60% will reduce the former to 2.4⁰ or just shorter the RPM band over which the reduction takes place (steeper slope on a graph). Since my above words are likely clear as mud, I will do my best to find these threads later and post them here for you. Right now I need to wake up the kids for school!

Can't say as though I've ever thought about or noticed this. That's one little thing I do like a lot about the Adrenaline: it showing the gear and whether the converter is being commanded to lockup.

No, Android. Kyocera DuraForce Pro 2, or some-such.

If so, I certainly can't find it. Found these, though! ∅0ⁿ 27⁰ ü ú û ñ ç æ ß ¡ ₱ № <± €∞♪♥ I found it! Touch and hold Pi, to get μ.

Yes. The Greek letter "µ" (mu) means millionth. The "m" is for meter. It's far easier to use our common alphabet, so we use "um".

It is SOMETIMES lower energy content, as you correctly show in your graphs. There are two ways to raise the cetane, one is by removing the longer hydrocarbon chains in the refinery which indisputably does equal lower BTU/lb. The other way is to add a small amount of "cetane booster" like 2-ethyl hexyl nitrate to act sort of like "kindling". If 7,000 BTU/gallon of energy in 25 gallons of fuel was suddenly removed by dumping in 1 ounce of booster, I think you'd have a real problem on your hand. Energy can be neither created nor destroyed, but can be transferred, right? So IF that energy is removed from the fuel, where does it go? If you dump in 1 ounce of this product it would release a substantial amount of energy. 25 gallons x 7,000 BTU/gallon = 175,000 BTU 25 gallons x 7.1 lbs/gallon = 177.5 lbs Specific heat of diesel is ~.5 BTU/lb-F By my calculations the fuel would experience a temperature rise of nearly 2,000 degrees F. Considering that 175,000 BTU is enough energy to turn about 175 pounds of water into steam, I trust my calculation. You say that you get 50 cetane fuel at the pump so cetane boosters aren't needed, but for those of us that reportedly get 40-42 cetane fuel even if the local weather is in the single or negative digits, what is the recommendation?

Basically. I'm assuming some wire somewhere shifted and finally made contact - which worries me even more about when it will shift and NOT make contact.

I fiddled with it some today, also checked my add-on PCM fuse and it was fine. After havin small charger on it all morning took a trip to the fuel station, came back and still no alternator. Only after scrapping plans to haul my trailer tomorrow and driving the trailer around back of the house... Only THEN did the alternator start working! So aggravating, but at least it seems to work - until it doesn't again.

That's what I'm hoping. That or a fuse from when the wires were all dangling there, possibly hot. I don't know if it's possible, but I really hope it's not something like the PCM got a circuit smoked due to a short.

California, Texas, and apparently Idaho all get better fuel than the rest of us, based on what I've read from the VW TDI diesel nerds. Winter, spring, summer, and fall, large swaths of the nation still get bare minimum fuel with 40-42 cetane, according to them. No BP or CENEX around here has their "premium" diesel. One Costco around here has the Top Tier diesel, so supposedly getting closer to what you have in Idaho. Up in MN there are some Kwik Trips with premium diesel and regular diesel. The BTU reduction depends on whether cetane is raised by adding chemicals to aid in ignition, or by removing the waxes that don't like to light off and also like to plug filters. The waxes have a lot of BTUs as I understand it. Just like #6 is more energy dense than #2 due to the longer hydrocarbon chains remaining.

This Wednesday we're finally supposed to get several inches of snow in Kansas City. I'll be in Los Angeles Tuesday to Friday afternoon, but the snow will be waiting for me as the temps are supposed to be in the single digits. It was nearly 50 here today, sunny and calm! Almost balmy... It was single digits here on earlier this week or last - I can't remember which. And it was colder up in Iowa, one morning was -2 when I went to start my little VW TDI, and it almost didn't start, even with one of those lithium ion jump packs. Battery was fine, but the original starter with 193k miles didn't like the cold. Clutch/drive whatever just worn out. New NAPA reman starter and it's a world of difference, just leaps to life in the morning.

I finally tackled this project today since it got up into the upper 40s and was sunny. It looks horrible, hence no picture being posted. The truck started, but the alternator wasn't charging, based on volt gauge. CEL was on, but I did not take the time to plug in my OBDLink to check the code(s) to see if there was a companion to the obvious. That will come tomorrow when I'm outside tending to some ribs on the smoker. One thing that really got me was that plug C126 has two dark green wires going to it, and the rodent chewed them both! They are wires D20 and K20, both are 18 gauge at that location. K20 goes to the PCM and alternator for the field, and D20 is something I don't understand. "SCI receive" or something along those lines. I'm certain I didn't switch them when putting them into the WeatherPak connectors, but that will be the first thing I check tomorrow, followed by making sure I did a good job of building the connector. No idea if this has anything to do with it, but I also noticed my fuel pressure (on the gauge) absolutely would not go above 12 PSI when I bumped the starter, then even dropped to 7 PSI when it started, and it started great, far less than 2 seconds of cranking. Not bad for sitting several weeks. I had disconnected the batteries back when I discovered this varmint mess. I will put a trickle charger on the batteries tomorrow, I'm hoping the low fuel pressure reading was just because of low voltage. Fuel tank almost full. I also took @IBMobile's advice and spray a little critter ridder under the hood. Hopefully the next time the engine gets up to temp I'm not run out of the cab by the smell of black pepper baking off of the intake manifold!

An internet search to learn more, and I find a July 14, 2008 post from you advocating this filter, ha ha! I also succeeded in learning more than I ever wanted to 😆

I think I could handle the other way around, but depending on where one lives, this could get a guy in trouble. An old friend of mine had a Mustang that whenever you turned left, the horn would honk. He also happened to live in a rough part of town - it was not a good combination! We soon found the chaffed wire and he could once again turn left without worrying about flying lead.

Buddy, I do understand. Typing on a phone I was less verbose than the below, but it is exactly what I said just with more descriptive words.

You're wrong again. Raptors and FASS DRP pumps have only two external connections. Their pressure regulator is internal, dumping fuel back to the suction side of the pump, inside the housing - not clear back to the tank.

Not if it's deadheaded, as people were discussing.

I do believe all of the pumps we're discussing here have an internal pressure regulator that will dump fuel back to the suction side of the pump, so they'll never deadhead. That will, however, put heat into the fuel due to being "churned". Theoretically, that heat could raise the temp enough that the suction side of the pump would be below the vapor pressure of the fuel, this causing real cavitation. But, the fuel does eventually get replaced by cooler fuel. @Mopar1973Man's recommendation to return fuel outside the basket is the best solution I've seen for hot fuel. A thermostatic diverter valve would be best, but $$$$ is all I've found. I have not yet installed my 3-way ball valve.

All these vacuum pump problems really make me appreciate my older vehicles more. The "choke cable" operated blend doors, etc. just never seem to give sudden problems. No vacuum gizmos for the axle.

Lots of air compressors use copper tubing. If you're really worried about get type K, it's the thickest wall among the common varieties. Used for HVAC and that's a pretty high pressure.

FASS shipped the DRP with a 100 micron inline screen, but it is small so average velocity through the screen would be relatively high. The factory installed a screen in the tank, which I removed. I upsized the fuel lines to 3/8 from 5/16. I am not worried about the minute pressure drop through my screen, and am glad it's there to protect my $300 lift pump and prevent a tow bill because if trash wipes out one, I'm not installing the spare to have it destroyed, too!

Yes, you can. See my signature for the Donaldson part number I run. It's a 140 micron screen. You'd have to find whatever model number has the dimensions that match your filter head. I used a cheap WIX filter head, then drilled and tapped the frame 5/16 fine. Here is where I posted pictures and all the part numbers.

I installed mine with the tank empty. Unless you raise the bed to do this I think draining the tank is almost a necessity. Using a pump that's far bigger than you need will make the pump just churn the fuel in circles inside the pump because the regulator just sends it back to the suction side of the pump. This isn't like an airdog, etc., where it is returned to the tank in the name of air separation.

Yep, I think this is best. There may be a reason to get rid of the factory filter, but I've yet to come across it here or anywhere else. If I had it to do all over again, this is likely the route I'd take. In 2020 finding one was nearly if not completely impossible. Haven't looked in quite some time.