LorenS

Fantastic, I have Alfa on my phone already! Hopefully there weren't too many changes for 2007 in preparation for the 6.7L.

Having replaced the control arms, I definitely suggest buying the whole arm. Also, go ahead and get the bolts if you can't have your truck down. Mine were rusted into the bushing sleeve and were destroyed during the removal process. I would like to get the kind with Currie Johnny Joints (or similar) but can't really justify the cost, even if I built them myself. I used MOOG arms, they seem to be doing well over 50k miles later. Hard to go wrong with Timken. I used the most expensive that NAPA had, and that was 75k miles ago.

My dad's 2005 is having phantom issues with the ABS light. Can anyone tell me before I drive to his place whether or not an OBDLinkMX+ can be of much use diagnosing the ABS system in that era of truck? I've dug around and around on the OBDLink forum (scantool.net?) and found nothing of use.

No, truck repair first. Trap has been set and baited. Here's my current defense until the offensive maneuvers succeed. Includes Critter Ridder and mothballs (the white lump behind the screen). Pretty sure it's the same one over and over. Always runs back to the same nest away from my truck. Its vacation home, I guess.

Again with the squirrel. Apparently Dodge decided to have fun with White/Black and Violet/Brown wires. So when the squirrel eats through two VT/BR wires, it's a real joy to turn to page 8W-136 of the FSM and those are the only two types of wire shown.

I suggest getting one. The ones I like most are the OBDLink brand. I first read about them on this website and it was a great purchase. The LX is all you need for these trucks. I have the LX I keep in my truck and the MX+ for newer vehicles that I keep in my garage. https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-lx/ There are likely other, much cheaper brands that will do similar work, I cannot tell you how long they will last or the ease of using their app. I can tell you that my LX has not had an easy life (dust, heat, plugged into the truck for months on end) and still works great, and the app works great - it's quite customizable without being so customizable you need a degree in programming.

Since it happens most when it's moist outside and also at very low throttle position, could it be that the APPS is just worn or dirty enough at that spot that it misbehaves?

Probably working and not hanging out on websites. A phone call or email would likely receive much more prompt service.

I'm pretty sure that's their intended market, not boats or old trucks.

I know Geno at @Genos Garagegot his start selling the combi-gauge (I believe Westach), with the boost and EGT in one gauge. I really like the EV2 gauges, but do wish I had bought one of these, just to save a pod - and they look cool! https://www.westach.com/boost-egt-combo-gauges?Size=2"+Round It'd be swell if ISSPRO made some EV2 combo gauges so they'd match the stock gauges, even if digital; for things like oil/transmission temp, etc. Westach sells a dual oil temp gauge, would need to make labels to remember which one is oil versus trans. temp! https://www.westach.com/product-page/2dc3-89

You can download the factory service manual, the capacity charts will be towards the front. https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/8-dodge-ram-factory-service-manuals/

One place to check is the sock/strainer inside the fuel tank. My dad's was full of trash when he cleaned his, and mine had maybe a tuna can's worth of crud packed around it and even more in the tank. I cleaned mine the same time I moved my stock pump to the frame rail so can't say which one was the reason my fuel pressure went up, but surely neither hurt. Now I have a FASS DRP on the frame, no sock in the tank (draw straw), and the spin-on fuel strainer on the frame.

My solution a few months back was careful trimming of the old lift pump bracket using a zip disc on my angle grinder, smoothing the edges, sanding, and some satin black paint. I always keep a variety of gasket material on hand, thankfully.

Here's a pertinent thread. And here's another.

I'm another vote for the EV2. The quality is high, and they match the truck's existing gauges.

Yep, I have a set of those sockets. Can't remember what piece of equipment required their purchase. They certainly don't get used much!

Your statement is correct. For further information on the subject, keep in mind the MAP sensor isn't too accurate above a certain level. I do not know that level, but I believe I read on this site it's somewhere in the 20's. A true boost gauge would be needed for more accurate readings.

I believe they're known as a "Torx Plus tamper proof", or something similar. All over the internet if you search those words.

In the pan is a great place, especially if there's already a dedicated place for it. I believe the port that's shown in the directions is actually a pressure port and there's no flow through there. It's better than no gauge at all, but very slow to react. Some folks put them in a transmission line, but that will give a wide swing in temps, up and down with every hill. The "just right" Goldilocks location is apparently in the pan. I read all this on Goerend's website a few years back, looks like it's still here in the FAQ: https://goerend.com/ft-2434-faq.html#q26908

Can try removing MAP sensor, reconnect wiring, start truck (or at least ignition switch to ON), apply small pressure via air compressor, see if Adrenaline (or OBD reader, etc.)registers the pressure. I do not know if the sensor is grounded through the sensor body. Connect ground via jumper wire, or lookup in the wiring diagrams.

I think most of the wiring is there, but IIRC there's like a "jumper" from the main harness to the lights. I was going to look at that this afternoon, and instead discovered that a squirrel had again made a nest under my hood, so got distracted with that cleanup. Had forgotten to refresh the mothball supply...

For 5 years or so I've had fog lights on the shelf to put on my truck that didn't come with them, I even have the different bumper inserts and the factory-type switch. Once I looked under the truck for the wiring harness, I realized I needed yet more wiring to hook it up and moved onto other projects.

The thing that jumps out at me is that you were possibly drawing over 300 Amps for 30 seconds with the winch, then hoping that the 120 Amps for 60 seconds was sufficient to recharge the battery. But your fuel pumps, ECM, etc. were also drawing power. You drained the bucket with a firehose and refilled with the garden hose at only twice the duration.

Ha ha ha! Link to the "Two Yoots" scene with Hermann Munster as the judge. Had me rolling with laughter! https://youtu.be/ZBk3dJNSQks

Yoots. Great movie!