LorenS

I wonder if your intake air was still cold enough that the ECM was adding timing. That 3-4 degrees of timing advance, coupled with weak injectors (pop pressure) advancing timing may been too much, and caused the skip.

I bought my Quad and pretty much use it as a timing box and for gauges. Still haven't tapped the pump wire. However, if you need injectors then I'm not sure how an Adrenaline factors in unless you would buy bigger injectors if you had one.

I see IPVR16X injection pumps, and they say they fit only cab-chassis and medium duty trucks. Is this a 'physically won't fit', or a 'emission laws say they can't be used in pickups' statement? It seems to me that if you're going to put in RV275 injectors or larger, you may as well put in the VP44 model that was DESIGNED for those injectors! Of course the ECM, cam grind, etc. won't be similarly modified. A Duck Duck Go search has failed me, so I am now here inquiring. Blue Chip Diesel and Oregon Fuel injection mention them but say "medium duty only". Just wondering, I'm not really in the market for an injection pump right now. [Knocks on wood]

But if his injectors are on the way out, then it's not an option to JUST do an adrenaline.

Uhhh... I'll pass.

The standard answer is @dieselautopower, it's what I ordered on Monday. What to use with your Edge EZ, I haven't a clue. I saw they list up to 100 HP injectors in their package deal with the Quadzilla version of the EZ, so surely 75, 90, or 100 should work with the EZ. https://www.dieselautopower.com/dodge-ram-cummins/1998-5-2002-5-9l-24-valve-dodge-cummins/1998-5-2002cummins-fueling-and-injection/1998-5-2002cummins-fuel-injectors/re-manufactured-bosch-bodies?dir=asc&order=price Yes, any way to block off the openings in the grille.

Thanks, @NIsaacs. Funny thing is that is the thread that got me to thinking about ride height a couple months ago! Just used the wrong search words, I guess. That thread helped, if 13" is normal from spring perch "rim" to bottom of top spring... socket? Anyway, as indicated in that thread's photos. I think those NAPA coils are the MOOG/Federal Mogul units.

I cannot locate in the FSM what the stock ride height should be, and by that I mean from frame to axle as that won't change with tire size. Can someone out there measure for me, or know what it's supposed to be? The previous owner had a snow plow on this truck, had 36k pound tags, and clearly used the gooseneck a LOT. I have tight suspension and recently had an alignment done, but the truck still drives weird. My frame to axle dimensions are different from passenger to driver's side. Considering a new set of front springs, but open to suggestions. I have not checked the rubber isolator in the last 50k miles, but was there when I changed the shocks - obviously that doesn't mean it isn't trashed. EDIT: Also, input on variable vs. constant spring rate, and manufacturer would be appreciated. MOOG CC1710 are the variable, but listed as only being for standard cabs - MOOG apparently doesn't make Quad Cab springs of any kind. 7394 is the constant rate part number.

Worn out injectors pop early, aka advanced. With unknown miles on yours, that may be a good place to start.

As usual, I took only half of the advice @Me78569 gave me, hopefully this turns out better than my headlight experiment. I bought @dieselautopower units as recommended, but opted to try the 8x.0085 VCO injectors as they were less money than the 7x.009 units. https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-100hp-performance-injectors-7x0-0085-vco-vp7x85vco The sales gentleman at DAP said that more holes leads to more haze than fewer holes; seemed backwards to me (for same horsepower) so went ahead and bought the 8-hole. We shall see! I forgot to ask about pop pressure.

I forgot to respond to you! I don't believe it would. Turns out my dad has a spare HX35 lying around, so that may be going on the truck when/if I can talk him out of it. He drives a 3rd gen now, so surely this is doable.

Over 500k miles on driveshaft u-joints?!?! That's amazing! 😲

Whoah, mine is 13.7ish.

Yes, no limited power here. Coal burns great regardless of the sun shining or wind blowing! On the weekends I plug in the truck then step into the garage when I wake up and flip the switch. I don't idle my truck to warm it up.

I guess I'm the unicorn in this bunch. I figure electricity used to preheat is not only a little electricity saved cranking, bit also allows my engine to start burning clean faster - better for my oil, better for my fuel consumption. I also plug it in below about 40F, for about 3 hours. Same reasons, plus defroster works almost immediately. Costs me about 18 cents in Kansas City.

Yes, exactly. We are in agreement. Tractorman's explanation also makes perfect sense as to why the terminal was glowing hot.

When I had to change my control arms the "liquid wrench" - aka the torch - was utilized. Much smoke. Tried cutoff wheel on 9" grinder to cut, but bucked a couple times thanks to rubber and I decided on another route that wouldn't involve broken bones, etc. New bolts and new arms made it easy to adjust, as long as I took weight off axle for the big adjustment. Final tightening of bolt done with full weight on truck to prevent preload in the rubber bushing.

I consider shorting out to be "alternator bad", and still has nothing to do with heated seats or grid heaters. You seem to have agreed with me yesterday, though perhaps I could've phrased it better. "Not good if the diodes happen to short to ground for what ever reason. (Poof! up in smoke). Why I still got that 150A circuit breaker." And today! "Still in all the alternator is only 136 Amps so it will never charge any more than that period even with a dead short. That fuse will never blow."

RA sure is proud of that pigtail. Normal price for just sensor is $102 or so. Add the pigtail it's $176?! It pays to investigate. $4.44 for connector, same brand. They want $69 to combine them into a kit, apparently.

It's a consideration, for sure, but I don't put Dormant and Standard in the same quality category. 10% extra for Standard is worth it to me - dealing with RA and their love affair with FEDEX may sway me back to Dorman and Amazon.

https://www.windbreaktrees.com/ As a southlander who visits Iowa and southern MN with some regularity, I ask when it's NOT really windy. Nebraska and the Dakotas don't do you all any favors...

Considering the amp draw of the starter, I feel like this is just a coincidence. The alternator shouldn't be able to put out enough juice to smoke (or nearly smoke) the fuse. Either the fuse was bad, the alternator was bad, or both. "WWW-T D?" What would W-T do?

$46.79 (plus freight) at Rock Auto for a Standard Motor Products unit. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,electrical-switch+&+relay,air+intake+heater+relay,16100

My guess is not many make the bar, but may very well machine it and put their own guts in it. The drag link I installed today had MOOG stamped into the caps(?) where the zerk goes, and the dust boot. Nothing on the forging. But truthfully, the guts are the important part that wears out, not the bar itself.

If it isn't programming related, could it be a bad spot on the APPS or another sensor, etc?