CSM

A word of caution. Anti seize is conductive and should not be used on electrical connectors... And be very careful to never get any on spark plug insulators. Just a tiny bit on the spark plug threads is sufficient.

The edge filters are in the tube between the injector line at the head and the injector. To pull them you pull the valve cover, loosen the injectors, lines and pop the crossover tubes out. If you go into articles and watch the vid from Pepsi71 on changing injectors it will show you in detail.

I've had no issues with the FASS. I never had any problems on my Air Dog on my 2000 but I did not care for the install as much as the FASS. FuelLab also looks interesting, but its not conventional technology.

If it were me, i would be flushing the fuel system starting at the tank. Then the tank to the lift pump, Then the filter housing. Then the line to the pump. Once I was satisfied that was clean, I would reprime the pump,clear the codes and start it. I would look for three things on startup. More codes, hot or cold cylinders, or any abnormal rough running. Once the fuel system is clean, you can start troubleshooting further. I would expect that a new warranty pump might be in order, and if I did a pump or if I found any crud in the post filter lines I would likely pull all the injectors and crossover tubes and make sure they are clean and not damaged as MoparMan mentions.

Another note on the smarty is that it can recalibrate the speedo for non standards tires In addition to having high idle and 3 cyl high idle enabled.

After getting new ball joints, my steering is decent... As good at least as it was near new, which was marginal anyway.

It works, but I have to dial it back to 3. I should try it again. I'm currently running smarty only with the comp off.

Totally agree Mike. I want a UDC! I think the smarty is deceptive though since it's such a smooth curve. I want to do a comparison with my comp vs smarty revo. Alone the smarty is not a comp, but it runs very well and my cruise still works with my 125s and 62/12.

What I mean by the static, is that torque is a stationary measurement. Torque as calculated at your engine or with a torque wrench is the same. It is simply a non moving "twisting" force. With a lever long enough I could make a 1000 ft*lb with my body. However, I could not move that lever fast enough to make 1000 ft*lb at any meaningful RPM to make any significant horsepower. I don't mean this to be cryptic or secretive. Thats all torque is when we get down to the physics of it. If you had a torque gauge on the crankshaft it would read the actual "twist" or torque regardless of RPM. Now, a torque that is output at an RPM is something we can work with and is known as horsepower, newtons, or kilo Watts (in metric). So, torque is important. However Torque alone is only half the story of any engine. The horsepower curve tells the whole story, and we design engines to make the best torque vs rpm (aka: horsepower) curve we can and then gear the vehicle to spend the most time in the best balance of economy and usable power range of that horsepower curve.

I have run a hybrid. It's for sale now actually. It's a bit better than stock, but it isn't the cost of a new one better.

I agree with the above. I've never done a wheel only change and don't think its worth the hassle. You can consider a HX35/40 hybrid, but unless you are interested in used I would say skip the hybrid and go bigger. TFaoro and I are very happy with our II phatshaft 62/12s.

I am particular interested in your REVO settings and the smarty only curve if you get a chance to post it.

Scam, in my opinion. If our fuel could be catalyzed by something so simple ExxonMobil or Cummins would have done it already.

I can't speak for all, but in my mind, no apologies are necessary among friends. This is what makes this site great. We are having a good discussion. None of this is preaching. Just discussion, as I am a bit of a nerd, and like this stuff. Consider the following... You can feel torque and measure it with a torque wrench, as torque is static. Torque is in Lb*ft and doesn't imply any rotational speed. Horsepower is torque appled AT an RPM. Horsepower units are roughly Lb*ft/sec. So with the above, look at this old very slow RPM engine like the one below in the video. Its a 100 hp engine. http://youtu.be/OwOxoSmoWy8 If we assume (safe as most of these engines ran at or under 600 rpm) 300 and 500 RPM for this engine at 100 HP I ran the numbers for the torque. hp=torque*RPM/5252 and torque=hp*5252/rpm At 300 RPM and 100 HP output the engine would be putting 1750 lbft of torque on the output shaft, and at 500 RPM it would be putting 1050lbft of torque on the output shaft. My truck doesn't make 1750lbft of torque, but I make more power than this old engine and if hooked up to a generator, my truck would make roughly 4 times more electricity with its 400 odd hp than the old engine. So, as noted, RPM is key, horsepower is torque at an RPM. The same torque at a higher RPM equals more power and a faster car, if it is geared appropriately. So, lets consider gearing! Torque is multiplied up or down by gear ratios and horsepower stays constant (minus parasitic friction loss) through gearing. Yet, even though torque is multiplied, it is still a static measurement and dosn't imply any rotational speed. I can gear a 5hp briggs and stratton down to the point to where it will pull a freight train, but very very slowly. That briggs and stratton could conceivably put out the thousands of ft*lbs of torque needed to turn the wheels. However, it doesn't have the power to do it at a high RPM and haul the mail. Our engines torque & power curves are deceiving, as they have high torque numbers compared to cars of equal horsepower ratings. However, we must consider that our engines turn at 2000 rpm compared to a toyota that may make the same power but at 5500 rpm. If you could run a toyota engine at 5500 all day long and geared it down, it could tow the same load as our cummins, but we all know it would burn itself out at that high RPM. They are linked, but the rate that the torque is applied has to be considered.

there were always a couple 2000hhp pumps that would lope at idle on my old frac crew. I loved listening to the cat 6412s. VrrrraaaattttttTTTTT VrrrraaaattttttTTTT VrrrraaaattttttTTTTT!

Torque is static, by definition. Horsepower is dynamic. Torque at an RPM will move you... Torque at 0 rpm won't move you and torque at an RPM is, by definition, power.

They want an arm and a leg for it, like all blue chip stuff. It is overpriced and not promoted at all compared to the competition. I would like to try one, but I wouldn't buy a new one.

Great write up AH64. The HP torque discussion is a hot button topic for me.

I'm looking at the below linked trailer to do my upcoming two military moves with. I will also pull some old mopars around with it. What do you guys think? https://wichita.craigslist.org/fod/4877122260.html

Can you describe the miss? I can't find your other thread. My 2000 had a slight miss at idle but it ran great.

Mine does a quick rpm jump with a noticeable RUMP sound off idle.

There are days I treat my body liked a fast moving dumpster... like today when I had 10min between brief and flight due to poor planning on my part. I applaud you guys though. It's hard enough to stay in fighting shape shape at 29. I was just kidding on the museum joke.

Indiana Jones says... Just kidding!

Mine should be as well then. Didn't think about that. Penguins are falling off my iceberg!

I've never checked, but from what Mike wrote, I assume so.