CSM

Rancherman, that is a great write up.

Odd that they changed it. the 9.25 has been the Chrysler staple ever since the 8.75 went away.

I agree with the cam lobe pump idea completely... A cam lobe pump and a small accumulator would have worked just fine. The modern pumps are 250gph and whatever... Yet, how many PSI is that rated at? I don't recall seeing that pressure, and as they aren't positive displacement pumps, that gph number is a function of suction head and pressure head. In a perfect world, the trucks would be setup like a business jets fuel system at work... Mechanical pump at the engine pushing fuel back to a motive flow jet pump in the tank (no moving parts!) which pushes fuel to the engine. There is also a boost pump in the tank used for initial starts, "stuff," and emergencies that supplies fuel to the engine and jet pump. However, trucks are expensive enough.

Thats great, as long as they are getting good longevity from it. The new hemi is beyond my experience. From what everybody has said the 5.7 is a great long lasting engine.

Wnf. I am a big fan of the trutrac torque biasing diff. I put one in my 97 and it was great. It wasn't a true locker, but it handled great on snow and pavement as it would put torque to the tire with the most grip. Ino my experience, gassers usually don't get significant gains without hard parts. Mainly because the engine is tuned for the right mixture already. Headers and a tune used to be a good mod, but I recall reading that the factory manifolds on the 5.7 were pretty decent.

So what are the differences in the programming over the years?

Thanks!

Their factory setup on opposite sides reduce wheel hop.

Can you not get new ECUs from Chrysler any longer?

I bought one from my dodge dealer about 3 years ago.

I bought new when I couldn't find a used Chrysler one. Your mileage may vary. You might check to make certain that there are no weird voltages running around your truck. No AC spikes, no weirdness.

Awesomeness!

There is a hybrid. Many manufacturerstudents made them to varying degrees of quality. I have one. It's a step up from the stock, but is kinda laggy at times and i have way too much fuel for it. I am planning on upgrading to a bigger turbo when possible. The 40 itself comes in many different flavors and is known for shearing shafts when barked and run hard. I would stay away unless it's cheap, gated, and you know what exhaust housing it has.

PM of link please? Thanks!

It can. I've seen it many times in gas engines. I hope the crankcase isn't open to the air and all the holes where the IP was are plugged, more for grit than humidity. On a gas engine I usually spray some oil in each cylinder through the spark plug hole before putting it to bed for a winter. Cam lobes are always iffy though, and sometimes will get dry on some models of engines and wipe when you start driving again. Some aircraft engines are this way, and on some old Chrysler V8s you will see one of the rear cam lobes wipe on a resurrected engine. The cam will run fine for a while, but the thin layer of surface rust will have destroyed the surface finish on the cam, causing irregular wear on the lifter. The lifter cam surfaces will then quickly wear through the hardened layer on each and hopefully the lifter keeps spinning in its bore.

neat

Codes?

Stand by for some entertainment up there, Bill... There are going to be a lot of rig hands selling stuff cheap.

All my experience is upstream. I am a frac guru, not a pipeliner. A buddy of mine is a pipeline guy though, and a darn good engineer. However, I will say this... There are a myriad of pipelines running around the country carrying many things... I think we can build a workable pipeline to the refineries on the gulf coast. Now, is the XL it? I have no idea. Personally, I want stable energy prices... Good for my day job, good for energy prices, etc.

Prices are going to be interesting. There are a lot of factors. The politics, EPA, OPEC, and regional pricing differences are going to make things more odd for a while. I will warn you guys though... Don't expect low prices to stay. If we end up having an oil bust, give it a year or two and plan on having $5-10/gal oil quite easily. In short, I recommend budgeting for the high prices and saving the difference at the pump for the next couple years.

Welcome. Very good group of guys here, some professional diesel mechanics, some engineers, some Truck Whisperers like The, Mopar1973Man. Anyway... I am a CO resident living in Oklahoma with the military. I shall return.

And you couldn't isolate it by pulling fues on the block there? Weird. well... it has to be there somewhere. You could try just probing from teh battery to the top of each fuse. There is a small gap there a sharp probe should touch metal, so you shouldn't have to pull any. You could even check the bags.

Huh. So the probe is going from the positive bat terminal to the 140A stud... and you are reading 0.5A. I am 99% sure that the positive lead that you have disconnected powers the 140A stud. You can check... (also check if the disconnected lead has 12-14v on it from the pass side... I don't think it does, but it might skew your results if it is connected to that battery.) So, if the 140A stud is powered through the disconnected lead in the picture, you still can have a leak from the wires connected to the lead.

Then what is bypassing the fuse block but is powered by the battery? What is wired onto the positive stud? I know you don't have any programmers with the P pump, but you have an electric fuel pump? You've eliminated everything you pulled the fuse for, so the list should be getting shorter. Unfortunately, you don't know for sure what all the wiring is on your new truck... so it could be several things from Gauge power to a relay for the fuel system. It should be easily enough tracked down though. Just keep following the amperage draw with your multimeter in the same way as the fuses. Test by unplugging if that is easy, or by checking for a draw with your meter.