CSM

http://www.smartyresource.com/downloads/graphs/high_hp_run.bmp

No, mine came out the power steering filler cap on the pump.

I had the same. A flush fixed mine for a while, then it would puke a bit again.

IIRC, the Aurora 2000 is not gated. In my experience, you don't want that. You will be have a lot more touchy truck with less drivability (especially in an automatic). plus, you don't gain any real performance.

That should be normal, if theTPS1 at 0 was at idle and the TPS 1 at 100.00 was at full throttle. Either way, the sensor is just a voltage. It isn't sending a varaible name like TPS1 or 2. Usually these sensors have a dead band in the middle of the range where they aren't linear, but are typically right at the ends of the range.

They need rebuilt? :lmao2:Just kidding. This doesn't seem to come up much. My gas engine builder says that he sees very very few pre common rail Cummins engines, but has a common rail a week go through his shop on average. As for what parts he puts in, I really don't know. According to him, the main killer of a cummins is a bad CR injector, a loss of ring seal, excess oil burn, oil starvation, and then lost rod bearings. He said as long as you don't over rev the engine and keep oil in the thing, its a-ok. I haven't rebuilt one, but the only thing that a lot of people seem to try with negative results is marine pistons. I would avoid them as they really aren't built for the power curve needs that a truck has, and requires marine injectors for proper spray pattern.

You guys don't see million mile trucks like CajFlynn (resident mil plus miler) running a water/meth injection kit. If you are pushing the engine hard enough towing to need a water injection system you are likely pushing too hard anyway. CajFlynn is a fan of staying below 20psi if I recall correctly. The system also isn't going to help you. You are cooling down the gases in the engine that operates off hot air? Whats the point? It seriously lowers your overall efficiency and methanol isn't cheap, as mentioned. If water/methanol injection was good you would see it more widely used. Historically, it really hasn't been used since the dark ages since our metallurgy has improved. You can get more power temporarily with a water injection system, but it really doesn't help beyond a short term flat out push.

Man, Rogan that sucks! I had a similar thing happen. Bought my 02 with the build sheet of suncoast parts in the auto... Turns out a mom and pop shop did a stock rebuild on it. I thought about a suit on the deadbeat seller, but I am pretty sure he would have skipped the state had I done so.

Agressively cut vehicular emissions more, cap and trade, while outsourcing emissions to china. What did I win?

All the MAFFS equipped C-130s are activated and flying as well. Busy year.

Start saving. When my 5sp did this, I made it another couple hundred miles of driving at light torque levels before it stopped working. I just ordered a South Bend unit when it slipped and I could smell the clutch material burning.

Moar!

I would get a new sensor. Especially since it doesn't match the gauge. Unless the EZ is jacked... I think the EZ plugs into the map sensor. I would either try a new map sensor or unplug the EZ and see if there is any change.

I'd say look for a used axle at a yard to trade with yours first. You can rebuild a rear end yourself, but you have to be pretty handy and have some big tools. If I recall correctly, I needed a 40 ton press, some dead blow hammers, some brass drifts, and a big impact... like a huge 1/2 or normal 3/4" drive. There are some good walk throughs on rebuilding dana 60s which are pretty similar to our 70s and 80s. I would check those, as I could be wrong. The first axle I did took several days to get shimmed correctly and get things safely pressed on and off the differential.

Damage is preventable by keeping your foot out of it as long as the bands aren't slipping and you shift without keeping it pinned to the floor. However, you can get things pretty warm if you aren't staying in (converter) lockup if you are loaded and lugging up hills. If you are towing with an auto, I recommend a temp sensor, and W&F will recommend a special line from genos if I recall correctly to put the sensor into. He likes putting the sensor in the line from the converter where the fluid is warmest rather than the pan.

First off. There are programmers like the smarty and then there are "chips." Some use the terminology interchangably. The smarty plugs into the OBDII port and reprograms the fuel and timing curves while activating the 3cyl idle if your truck didn't have it done already. It adds 60hp approximately at peak, but a lot more power off the line. The smarty has many levels of timing and fueling, including a "mileage" one that works pretty decent. The chips, like Edge Juice, Edge EX, Quadzilla, ect tap the pump with a wire and have a computer box and on some models a readout in teh cab. These pump tap "chips" can add 120 hp and the most timing from what I understand. If driven properly, these can give great mileage and towing gains, but could harm the automatic trans if the trans isn't up to task. The upsides of the smarty is that its pretty adaptable with the new Revo, and we may eventually have UDC to allow us infinite changes. It is a great towing programmer. However, with the additional torque at low RPM you will be putting significant extra strain on your transmission. Its downsides are that it isn't "on the fly" changable. The smarty takes a few minutes with the truck parked to change any parameters. The chips, however, are mostly tweakable on the fly from levels 1-5. However, they take some additional wiring and whatnot. Keep in mind that there is a safe order to modifications. Fuel pressure first to keep VP safe. Gauges second to monitor safety of everything. Trans third. then play with the chips, fuel and turbo. You will hear of "stacking" chips. I have a smarty / edge Comp stack. I have 0 additional timing added with the smarty, but it adds fuel at low RPM. The comp always adds timing and fuel across the board but mostly at higher RPM. It adds the fuel from both box/programmer to make a nice enough curve and I use the Comp for timing as well.

The other fun part is that I don't believe you can dim LEDs. So, they may take a while to burn out, but they will be FULL BRIGHTNESS ALL THE TIME!I'll keep my incandescent bulbs.

That or sound... I like the sound of the 5" with resonator. It has a distinct Ruummp when I roll into it off the line. Though, come to think of it, it probably sounds pretty droning in the other lanes. Yes, I know its overkill... but I got a deal on it. I decided to let the inner redneck have a day in the sun.

No idea... but, here is some brochure info: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Nordberg/Nordmenu.htm

ISX might love this... A radial 2 stroke diesel for small power plants and pumping.

So do those crossover tubes ever need cleaned?

Actually I wasn't. I never knew that part had a name.

Interesting. Never ever would have thought that... Whats the crossover tube and whats it do?

So it has less at the filter than IP? Are you running more than one pump?