Everything posted by CSM
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I hope this doesn't come to Idaho.
Edit. RIF. Screw the gun grabbers.
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Timing Effects
I think it would, but its going to be hard to have an apples and apples comparison. What we would need is a 12v vs 12v or 24 vs 24... with different compressions so to speak. Efficiency is directly proportional to compression ratio. More compression = more efficiency, regardless of boost. However, flame speed is a function of pressure. As the Apache says, boost is a measure of restriction, and it may be very hard to actually measure the effective boost gained within the cylinder... and its going to be a function of load & RPM. I think this is where tuning comes in, and I am uber jealous of those 12V and CR guys with their "adjustability" with your wrenches and smarty, respectively.
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Timing Effects
Interesting. Those grooves are giving you a bit lower compression, and are giving more turbulence and "mixing" in the chamber. I've talked to guys that said they would do that back in the 40s to get by on lower grade gas without pinging. You can get that effect to the point that it blows the flame out at the spark plug though. I personally don't feel that "being aimed at the spark plug" means jack. There just isn't anywhere else to groove on most chambers, as the valves take up most of the area. Some of the car manufacturers really started playing with their chamber designs in a big way about 20 years ago, and it has started to become a bit more popular in hot rod realm. The best overall way to get turbulence in the fuel/air mixture is to design a quench pad to the chamber. The piston will basically get really darn close to the head, close enough to put out the flame on that side and push any of it over to the other side. In the process though, it really rapidly pushes the fuel/air mixture across the chamber and helps eliminate any rich/lean spots in that particular charge of fuel/air. With this more ideally mixed fuel/air charge, preignition or detonation is far less likely. But there are lots of different terms and effects in the chamber that I don't recall the proper definitions for, quench, squish, swirl, etc. Steve Dulich, in Engine Masters magazine has had some great articles over the past decade for gasoline engines. In diesels, this effect is already done, and in a beautiful way on our Cummins engines. Part of the chamber is actually in the piston, the charge actually compresses into that void in the top of the piston. The charge of air is quite turbulent in that little space, then fuel is squirted in via the injector. The fuel/air mixture doesn't burn the same as gasoline, but with a properly designed combustion chamber, and good injector spray (ie: small droplets) you can have great clean power. Any significant change in the chamber design would likely have to be met with a change in fuel timing to be optimized... Though, in theory, additional compression would give an increase in efficiency... A higher compression engine (like the H.O.) with a smaller more efficient turbo running at lower speed could give some near ideal efficiency. Chamber design can make some really great engines, but they are also somewhat touchy. In my opinion, like porting, its somewhat a trial and error art form until someone gets it right. There is a lot going on that is extremely hard to model... but building stuff can be the fun part so long as the pocketbook holds out.
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Am I just negative ? Or is our nation and world really on a downhill slide?
We can make it out of this. Greece can't. Greece and Italy are like some frat boys who rack up $50k of credit card debt, and blow it all on pot and video games. They really aren't going to dig their way out. The US is still the worlds biggest economy, with the most manufacturing, and is still the R&D/tech centers of the world. We are like a professional with skills who way overspent on some stuff, got involved with some wild women, and got laid off. Now, theres some debt, but we can dig our way out... although its going to be through lots of games, and lots of different potential routes of less/more cuts/taxes/reform depending on what the congresscritters come up with. I think the economy is going to turn around a bit in the next 3-4 years. I don't think that we are going to have a "watch the world burn" moment anytime soon nationally. Though, I think that how well we do nationally is somewhat dependent on the atttitude of the guy wielding the "executive order" stuff... If we could just reform the EPA we would do so so much better alone as a country.
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Tuning
http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bFr2SWP1I
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Tach Problem
My 02 has done the same. I recently put a timbos APPS in it and it smoothed out the tach and feel of the engine a bit. I almost wonder if my old worn APPS was stairstepping the voltage pretty badly, rather than a nice linear ramp.
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Time to change the anti freeze
The new anti freeze, per what my old cummins tech tells me, is different. Its some sort of special formulation, and is required on the CR trucks. Without the right coolant, supposedly small bubbles will form on the cylinder walls, causing cracks/pits in the cylinder walls. The old trucks 12v and VP44 24v are ok with the Glycol based coolant. I searched for your alumaguard coolant mentioned in the OP and I couldn't find it. Mine is an 02 and I believe that the regular Prestone yellow or glycol green is fine in it... and a heck of a lot cheaper.ETA: HOAT (hybrid organic additive technology). Thats the new stuff... G05 generic name, Zerex is the brand name. From what I read it also has very good anti corrosion properties... so with aluminum, zinc, steel, iron, copper, lead etc in your engine you don't make a battery and cause parts to turn into mush. I may change to this stuff in my 02. Looks like good modern... albeit expensive tech.So, for your 01, as long as you replace the coolant with the same as what was in there (regular glycol with regular glycol) etc, you should be fine. I did read that some of the new Zerex coolant and the old glycol don't mix well.
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"built" 47RE woes
Yeah, mine will act similarly at idle. However (not an expert) but I believe the converter is creating most of the heat, and I can hear the trans lug the engine a bit in R,D21. but not in P or N. However, if I put it in neutral, and rev it, bringing air over the trans cooler with the fan, I will see a slow ticking drop in temp. Usually a couple degrees a minute or so... Not much, but some. I've often wondered what a separate radiator cooler with an electric fan on a thermostat would do for me. ATS did say that the valve body was modified so it would retain full flow even in park and neutral, by circulating the fluid through the converter like when driving.
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Time to change the anti freeze
Isn't that just for common rail or newer?
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Timing Effects
Let me put my mechanical engineer and Internal Combustion Engine hat on. Good posts. Timing before TDC isn't bad. Its required, unless the enigine RPM is extraordinarily low, like old Fairbanks Morse 1900s diesel low. You have to consider that when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke (on an otto cycle) and the spark ignites the mixture, the mixture takes time to burn. The piston face doesn't see pressure until the pressure wave/flame front makes its way down to the upcoming piston. You want advanced timing so that the piston is relatively close to TDC when the majority of the fuel is burned. This isn't usually possible, so we time it so the pressure wave hits the piston face near TDC. Otherwise, you have a "knocking" engine. Same concept with the valves. You should have the exhaust valve open during the power stroke, as you want the pressure wave from the open exhaust valve to hit the piston face right about BDC. Timing is what makes a good engine. Flame speed increases at higher pressures... AKA more boost or compression. Necessitating less advance at higher boost/same RPM for many engines. Piston design can also effect flame speed. However, at higher RPM, piston speed goes up and you need more advance as well. The other thing to consider, more with the common rails than our VP or P7100 poppet injector trucks... Is that a gasoline/air mixture will burn very quickly. A diesel mixture burns slow. You will hit an RPM limit around 5,000 RPM where the engine will not deliver any additional power for most diesels. This is because the fuel can't burn fast enough to completely burn by the time the stroke is over... Even if you injected at BDC. However, this can be remedied somewhat, by decreasing the droplet size (diesel stays in drops even when shot from an injector) by increasing the injector pressure. Diesel fuel burns in droplets, radially inward. So the burn rate is a function of the surface area of the droplets. Small droplets, means more surface area for the same volume of fuel. If you really ramp injector pressure, and get the droplet size way down... you can get the effective RPM of diesels up to around, 10,000. This will also make the actual burn time a bit quicker and more efficient. This, in theory, is why a common rail SHOULD be the most efficient diesel out there, being able to control pressures and timing to perfection. Unfortunately, very efficient diesels tend to have a NOx problem, and they usually band aid it with EGR and other tidbits. So, bbraden, you are somewhat right. In a very slow engine, you will have peak efficiency by only igniting at TDC. However, this won't work AT ANY appreciable efficiency (if it even runs!) in most engines that run at over a few hundred RPM. The big fuel oil diesels in ships are a good example of this, they are super efficient, but they are very low horsepower per lb, due to their low RPM. In a higher RPM engine, you can time ignition BTDC so that the pressure wave hits the piston face near TDC. And honestly, its different for each piston, at each throttle setting, at each load, etc. So, we have to guestimate it and get as close as possible. Hence the modern engines having a knock sensor and having the engine change the timing curve to stay on the ragged edge of knocking. And lets not even get into the horsepower vs. torque argument. - - - Updated - - - I am so jealous of your Smarty and Common Rail.
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"built" 47RE woes
I have a low stall converter in my ATS trans, and if I am sitting at a long light I slip it into neutral to keep the temps happy.
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Work?
Guys. I've offered this before in PMs, but I am posting right now from a frac job in Wyoming. I've worked in oil and gas since 07, and have a fairly decent handle on some of the basics. If you guys have some curiosity about the day in/day out or any oilfield theory, let me know. My background is in completions. Pumping, Cement, very knowledgable in frac, wireline, and lots of frac diagnostics. I will also say... THE ND OIL BOOM IS LEVELLING OFF at present. There are still jobs there, but things are changing. Election year/economy stagnation/lease contracts/etc are changing the environment a bit. There are still jobs there and still great paying jobs... but they are being a bit pickier in the hiring. That all said, ND isn't likely to Bust in my opinion, but its not going to keep growing by >100%/yr like it has been for the past decade. S. Texas,and the Eagle Ford shale play is possibly going to be the "next" Bakken. However, if you are looking for an oil and gas job, ND is still a great place to start. Not many guys can handle it. 2-3 years is a good "seasoned" hand. 5 years is senior. more than that is usually company man / site manager territory currently. Turnover is high. I am a bit older than ISX, but I view the lazy "free $hit army" that exists in my generation as an opportunity. Good employees without that entitlement attitude and a big mouth to match are damned rare. My reputation is job security and my stock in trade.
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Need your knowledge! Upcoming Part Interchange Article
Cool stuff guys! I am putting it into a spreadsheet that we can flip down or even make searchable if it got big enough. I am going to try to base it off of build dates. There will be some oddball trucks out there I am sure, but this will make things easier overall, and can map the changes.Other stuff to add... 2500 5sp and 6sp had the Dana 80 rear end. 2500 auto has dana 70s with different gear ratios.I don't know about the front axle, I believe other than the 2500-3500 hub differences they were the same across the board right?Also, what engine sensor changes were there?I know that 98.5-00 were similar, but there was a change at 00-02. Something about a crank position sensor that moved? I've read that due to this, ECM/PCMs won't swap from the early VP trucks to the later VP trucks, but I haven't verified. Anybody know for sure?I also seem to recall reading about the OEM 5sp OD fix occurring around 99, but again I dont' recall. I wish I had written some of this stuff down when I learned it at the time.
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Another Canuck joins the mix....
Bring out the gimp!
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Need your knowledge! Upcoming Part Interchange Article
Turbos? Anybody have a breakdown of the HY,HX, and the years they were used? - - - Updated - - - Drum brakes on the rear were pre 2002 right? I know my 2000 has drums, but the 2002 does not. What bout the 01s? Also, when did the full float front brakes come out? I want to say 2000. Before then it was a rather old school design.
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Need your knowledge! Upcoming Part Interchange Article
Guys, I've gotten the go ahead from Mike to put out some feelers for an article that would be useful for us. Let's face it. The newest 2nd gens are a decade old. The oldest 12v rumbled off the line 17 years ago. Engine swaps, junk yard parts crawls and even "Parts Trucks" are going to become a part of our vocabulary, much like they did the Mopars of the 1960s. We need to put together a parts change article, or several articles to illustrate the changes from year to year on our trucks. Having a breakdown of the differences will let us go to the yard and know what will and won't work, and also having photos of all this stuff wouldn't be horrible either! Eventually, this may morph into an interchange article, but for now we can focus on the changes between model years.For starters, if we can get the details on the engine/electrical/sensor changes (engine), drive train (DT) changes, and chassis/suspension (C/S) changes from year to yearI can start . If you have photos, throw them up. And if anybody says something that doesn't match your truck, bring it up and mabe we can figure it out. C/SWhen did the floating front brake rotors appear? 2000-2002 had the same brakes. Previously, the brakes are somewhat difficult to change rotors by comparision. DT2002 model years did not have the vacuum CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) that was on earlier years. So, what other model year to year changes were there?
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Engine Swap??
I may be wrong, but I think the miles are programmed into the PCM. So... if both trucks are manuals, and you change the ECM and PCMs, it may work. I *think* (ive never swapped years) that the sensors are the same on the 01-02 trucks.
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RE-KEY the WHOLE TRUCK
Go for it man, and thanks. I was going to wire something up along the lines of how my 5sp is setup if that gives you a hint. I will need a good kill switch. After the ******* hoodrat theives saw whats in the truck, they may go up to Aurora and get somebody who knows what he is about to "fix" the alarm. I need to be able to hard core disable it beyond the Karr alarm. I think most of the damage they did was to "punish" me for the alarm. When it went off it looks like they just started ripping on ____. Damn near broke the bottom of the dash out when they took the ash tray.
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Another Canuck joins the mix....
Excellent! Thanks for your service to the .mil and our Coalition! Stay safe over there, especially with all the so called green on blue.
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RE-KEY the WHOLE TRUCK
I ended up paying a local locksmith to do it. $280 for a so so job. NEW QUESTION! Any way I can wire up a cattle prod to the door lock? Say, arms when I arm the security system? I can see one of the local "urban youts" get his butt zapped right now. I need to move. :banghead: Sigh.
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RE-KEY the WHOLE TRUCK
Guys,Turns out the trash that sold me my 02 also forgot to tell me about the Hide-A-Key under the bedrail. Anybody ever re key these trucks? I need doors and barrel. I don't want to call Dodge, because... its a dealer . Well, the 02 got broken into last night. They roughed up the interior, but the alarm scared the FSA bastards off before they did much more than ripped out the ash tray. Its parked at my office now, but it will be a target even after its re-keyed. Thanks.
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A tour through Gen. MacArthurs old ride... (history and airplane photos)
Here is a set of photos that are some of my favorites... plus I am playing with some free editing software, so lets go on a tour of one of my FAVORITE airplanes. Welcome to the front office of Battan, what was once General Douglas MacArthurs personal ride. And afterwards, Air Force one and Two for a while, and it retired as a radio relay aircraft over the Pacific for Apollo 11. There is only one addition to the current cockpit that wasn't originally operational in 1969, you should be able to spot it. Radio Operator and Radar Operators station, all original equipment, as it was used back in the 1950s. The galley, which usually isn't noteworthy on most aircraft, but on this one, it is. Quite possibly, many of my childhood heroes had a fried egg or coffee from this galley. The military and their naming conventions. Even the coffee pot has a number! CUP, FOOD, WARMING, ELECTRICALLY HEATED, AIRCRAFT... Jeez. Now to the cabin. Note the fold down bunks above View back forward, note the radio operators station. The press corps, or military staff would be seated here on the glorious green chairs, probably in a cloud of smoke. Reaching the end of our time travel... the entrance. The exit, and our illustrious tour guide who did a GREAT job!
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Intermittent "dead spot" in accelerator pedal.
Update: Replaced Timbos APPS. Alternator fine, all else fine, and I could feel the consistent drop in throttle at the same point in the pedal regardless of load/rpm/etc. WOW! Its like comparing a smoldering pine cone to Charmin! Smooth, high resolution sensor that makes my 47RE happy and shift better, even with the Edge and somewhat laggy turbo cruise control is silky smooth... I wish I had done this a long time ago.
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Idle haze
Neato. So, what do you think was wrong with the injector lines? As much as I like the simplicity of my VP... The mechanical nut in me wants to play with a P pumped truck someday.
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Batteries or what?
I think you are on the right track. Starter solenoid may just be a bit "stuck." Or small furry demons have chewed through some magical electrical component.I aspire to laziness, and in that interest I would probably tap the solenoid with a hammer handle a few times before I went to the trouble of pulling the batteries.