CSM

Yeah, unfortunately, I can buy a lot of U joints and Dodge bearings for the price of that kit. I would love lock out hubs, but they are too pricey for me.

Mike, your truck wouldn't dare. Heck, you just replaced your batteries not too long ago. Your truck knows where its bread is buttered and isn't about to risk your wrath.

My local Dodge trans expert is telling me that they can make modifications to the 47RE, but there aren't many ways to increase the line pressure a lot... At least, without making it very finicky. He said shift kits really are smoke and mirrors in regards to line pressure, as the computer will regulate things itself. He said you can increase the line flow rate but not significantly increase line pressure. He is looking right at 3200 for a rebuild with billet input, 2500 without billet input and billet single clutch tq converter. His modifications he lists are very much in line with what CajFlynn recommends and what Tim Holt recommends, aside from one thing. The local trans guy strongly recommends to adjust your bands at each fluid change (AS LONG AS ITS DONE RIGHT). I have always adjusted bands on my 518, 904 and 727 transmissions, but I do recall reading somewhere that Holt did not recommend anybody adjusting their bands. Hopefully I've been doing it right. - - - Updated - - - I guess I really didn't post a question.... Heres the question. Does this make sense in regards to valve bodies and line pressure on the 47RE?

Thanks everybody! I am going to go talk to a trans shop or two when I get home. Until then I am going to drive nice and keep the comp fueled down to a 1. Thankfully, I am not doing much towing at the moment, though there is always the chance I may need to rescue There is a Goerend affiliated shop about an hour away, and a local place with a good reputation about 5min from my house. Its looking like the best option would be a triple disk, billet input, and a pretty healthy amount of line pressure. Hopefully I can sell the CVC stock replacement converter and "hardened" input shaft and recoup some of the $$$.

Wow. I didn't realize that it put that much load on it... but it makes sense. I should IM CajFlynn.

Then perhaps the packs slipping are the concern, not the clutch.

Also, the ladder bars will act like a lever and using the torque from the axle, plant the tires firmly in the sand with more force rather than lifting with wheel hop.

I have a lockup switch. So I can be locked down hills. My thinking is that since line pressure is based somewhat off accellerator pedal position, the low line pressure of idle as I go down a hill in lockup will not allow the clutch to hold any real torque... and possibly burning it up. Hopefully someone can clue us in.

Guys, school me on these please. I need to upgrade my current (stock replacement) converter and valvebody. On the 47RE how do I up my line pressure so I can lockup the converter safely when going downhill?

I would call the manufacturer and see if they can just send you a key... Hopefully you won't have to send it back to get them to fit the key. It isn't in your timing case I hope.

Bill, By ladder bars do you mean full length baja style or the little helper bars that help reduce leaf twist?

Is it a new pump or old pump? If its new, perhaps you can call the manufacturer and ask for another one?

Dang... You win. There aren't enough of those left in the wild for me to know what they are. Well, that, and they were post 74.

They are the Aluminums. Looks like they will be mine when I get back from ND. So, who wants a set of Alba 22" wheels with 35" trail grapplers? Near new?

I am going to get rid of the 22s that I have on my truck now and I may have found a set of 2012 wheels someone took off their new truck. Y'all think $400 for a set of new takeoffs is fair? I would really prefer 18" wheels, but 17s wouldn't be horrible.ETA: The 22s came with the truck... I didn't go buy gangsta wheels.

Also, Nice Ford LTD.

Mike, you sure do have a nice place to live. The hail didn't get your truck did it?

However, I take it we are not called to run ATF+4 in the PS system as mentioned for the 3rd gen? I wonder if it would hurt the seals.

Some of the ranches local to me would put a piece or two of culvert pipe vertically under their water troughs and the convection was enough to keep their tanks open all winter. Geothermal heating... unless you are near a hot spring, hot spot, etc. you will need a heat pump and will just use the ground as your reservoir. IE: in the winter, its easier to pump the heat from the 55-56 degree ground than the 32F or less ambient air. Geothermal cooling... Same idea as winter, just reversed. The earth is a great heat sink at 55-66F and the heat pump can work far more effectively than in the 80F summer air. The approximate geothermal gradient that works is one degree F per thousand feet down... though it can vary depending on the area quite a bit.

clever. very clever.

Power steering reservoir full? I had a similar feeling when I got my 2000. If it got really hot (summers in the desert) it would puke out fluid and generally act like manual steering sometimes.I would change the fluid in the reservoir and it would usually act better for a while, but then start being difficult again. Do the brakes feel rubbery as well during the turn? They are boosted by the ps pump as well.

Are your tires rubbing? Mine will not rub if I am on level ground, but will if I turn really tight and my suspension is compressed much.

Yeah, that is sad Mike. I tend to get more attached to cars than most people and can sympathize. But, things must move on. Lots of good times in the car, and it looks well loved, but I think the new owners will love it as well.

I vote RVs. They are by far the most economical / reliable gain for your buck as injectors go. I like the 140s in my 02, but some days I think i should put the RVs in the 02 and cut back on the smoke and lower temps a bit.

Are there any specific things you recommend reading of his? I did the best I can, but that Dodge Ram forum he uses is one of the worst layouts ever... Hard to navigate.