CSM

Ok, so it misses under load... Will it run smoothly otherwise? I recently had a VP on my 2000 go... It would idle great, and run good to about 1/3 throttle and then cut out completely and buck.

ETA: AH64 is the Smarty guy. Nevermind. I don't have a smarty Jr, but I have the S03. I would be willing to try helping walk through it some evening this week once I get off work, but I don't have the cable with me in the field to do it in sync with you. Perhaps someone else can decode it for you. If I recall it wasn't exactly simple with the S03.

Only 1 smarty per truck. If someone put their smarty on your truck, they wouldn't be able to flash theirs. It VIN locks to that PCM/ECM. You can still check codes on any truck with a VIN locked smarty. Smarty S-03s typically go for 450 used. I had my high idle flashed on my last truck at the dealer before the smarty though, and it ran about $80. - - - Updated - - - Only 1 smarty per truck. If someone put their smarty on your truck, they wouldn't be able to flash theirs. It VIN locks to that PCM/ECM. You can still check codes on any truck with a VIN locked smarty. Smarty S-03s typically go for 450 used. I had my high idle flashed on my last truck at the dealer before the smarty though, and it ran about $80.

True. From what I understand though, the VP trucks need that wire tap to keep the VP from automatically defueling past a certain point. Either way though, I like how it drives and it has enough power for me. I wish I could tweak a couple things, and I REALLY wish I could fine tune the parameters for the torque management and throttle position.

ISX... Thats funny right there. Mike, it sure is pretty up there. I am on a mountain in the deserty part of W. Colorado now, spectacular, but not nearly as pretty as the forest you live in.

Update:The REVO torque management at 2 shifts way too high. 3 seems to be an OK compromise. I have tried 2-4. The shift points aren't perfect anymore, but they are good. Duration at 2 seems good. I will likely play with the timing up to 3 soon and see how it likes it now that the torque management is lined out. Overall, the truck isn't nearly as stout as with the Comp, but it drives way better.

Two things. One, setup as said above, SW5,2,2,2. Ran great, great feel to the power, but nothing crazy. It didn't throw me into the seat in the top end like the Comp, but it didn't smoke like the comp either. Smoother overall power, nice little smarty puff of smoke at start, and actually 100F lower exhaust temps. Two, I was waiting for about 15min in a Wal-Mart lot waiting for my guys to text me their order of stuff (in this case a new soldering iron). I decided to just plug in the ABS tire height and fix the speedo, as well as try a little stouter torque management to see if it changed the shifting of the 47RE. As I pulled out of the wal mart with my soldering iron, the truck pulled really weird, and it turned out as I pulled onto I-70 that no matter what gear I selected, I was in converter 3rd. Period. CRAP! So, I assume that the Smarty screwed it all up, and revert back to completely stock software. No change. Still single speed truck. (though, it still drove decent with the low stall ATS 5-star converter) So, 400 mi from home I found the issue. A wire, from the previous owners botched converter lock up switch, had vibrated loose EXACTLY the same time that I stopped and put in the ABS sensor. The wire was grounding out a circuit in the trans it shouldn't have. The torque converter circuit codes clued me on to this, but I was still pretty lucky in finding the issue in about 30min. Smarty is back in, running GREAT, and I think the comp is probably going to get removed next weekend if it doesn't snow around here. Hotel parking lots are good for working on a Cummins right? Also, every time I take this thing out, I notice that it drives like a brand new truck after about 50 miles of sustained driving. The temps drop some, the turbo spools WAY faster, and the truck runs a ton smoother. I am convinced that with these injectors and the Comp in combination with the injectors being rather smoky, that the exhaust ports, valves, and whatnot get really carboned up.

Well... if they pump fluid into the rock to get the gold out. Say in-situ mining or something... I would be able to help. Otherwise, mines and caves scare me. Good folks miners though. One of my old room mates helps out at one of the big gold mines up in AK.

Nice computer! I keep hoping my POS dell will keep running for another year or two. I wish HP would sell me the corporate computers I get at work... not toughbooks exactly, but stout little machines. And theres a beer...or a scotch down here for you whenever you are around. Heck, you are welcome to the couch too. I'd come up, but you are going to have to get some sort of oil & gas going around that part of Idaho or something so my work would pay for the trip.

Sounds like somebody needs to start a 12V junk yard and just start rebuilding trucks, and selling them at a premium.

Fair enough, Mike. I couldn't pull it off! To Mike!

I see quite a few guys doing it in the oilfield. Lots of trips from Denver to ND or Houston to ND... But things are getting tighter at the moment and I am not sure whats going to happen in the oil biz.

Lets all pitch in! Happy Birthday

Could you take the cab/motor/trans/etc from the 98.5 and swap onto the 3500 frame?

Interesting as usual ISX. In my humble opinion: I would say performance parts rated for high power, but not straying too far from stock in strength. Performance parts that are too darn light aren't in the cards. One restraint I would make. Stock RPM. I think you would lose a lot of reliability and a LOT of longevity with high piston speed and surface speed on the bearings. Hence why nascar runs small diameter bearings, less drag with lower surface speed, at the cost of a shorter crank life. I would also say you can get exotic to get rid of heat. Sodium filled valves. Heavily ported and extrude honed head and exhaust to allow the most flow with the least heat created by pressure drop and friction. Also to make the most power at the least boost. Iron head, to eliminate the eventual head gasket failure that aluminum gets. Twins. With the goal of keeping lots of cool air and keep almost all smoke away. High efficiency and high heat transfer intercooler. Fuel? P7100. Hands down, unless you go higher RPM, then go with a high pressure common rail setup with custom software. Though I own two 24v trucks, the VP44 can go die in a fire when you are talking that sort of reliability. I am sure there are some tweaks that could be done to the pump, but I have no idea what that is. Oiling. I would tweak the oiling system to a full dry sump, with lots of great little squirters to keep pistons cool, and put oil right where its needed without causing excess drag. I would also have a good oil cooler. Cam and valve train? Custom grind. Stout pushrods. Some sort of valve spring... but not sure what. I would probably spend years fine tuning the cam grind to the rest of the setup. I would also sync the fueling, the static compression ratio, and the dynamic compression ratio with the turbos. As mentioned, proven yet simple things like sodium filled valves, etc. Nothing too crazy, just $$$ and lots and lots of tuning. I would stay away from methanol or water injection, as they suck for efficiency and are a band-aid for crap materials or poorly engineered setup. Another interesting thing I've learned about researching engines... All the major groundbreaking spark ignition recip engine technology stopped in the late 1940s. (Except variable valve timing!) Diesels have kept growing, but not in the same leaps and bounds that they used too. There is so much cool stuff out there from the 1940s and 50s in the aviation and marine engine technology. R-4360 details that are amazing... and my favorite diesel for neatness, the Napier Deltic. - - - Updated - - - You may note I am not going to too many odd or exotic things in the hypothetical build. One reason is I know gas race motors much better than diesel. The other reason is that these engines will last 500k stock. I like simple. I know some of the high end coatings are good... but I am not confident they will last long enough. I would need more research is needed in that area, as some of the coatings are VERY good... And some are kinda crap. - - - Updated - - - Thinking on the drive to work... I would also have a custom intake and exhaust made. The runners on the intake aren't really as necessary to be "tuned" like a naturally aspirated engine, but I would tune the hell out of the exhaust to get the cylinders equalized with temps/backpressure. Things like EGT probes at each port would be important. - - - Updated - - - With the tuning of cam/exhaust/compression/fuel and turbo, I think that the goal of great power, great efficiency, and low temps can be achieved. The longevity will be achieved by having good parts and not getting too crazy RPM wise. You probably noticed that I don't have any specific parts listed. As I said, I know spark engines better than diesel. But this is fun. Hopefully this makes sense. The only other pipe dream thing I can think of would be to get some sort of dual overhead cam variable valve timing setup working... That way we could play with dynamic compression, overlap, and advance/retard on the fly. This last bit is where modern engines will really outstrip the old tried and true designs.

Welcome. Smoking room is that way, and don't mind the Canadians, they don't know any better. Besides, they are still all excited from their annual pickled herring and seal flipper festival.

Very nice!

ISX, just wait til you get to Machine Design. It should be after or concurrent with Engineering Dynamics. You will love it, especially if the prof is good.

I don't believe so. I would still need to plug it into the data port, and the boost port, etc. I have gauges anyway, so the Comp stays. Though I think I am going to try the smarty when I can, and see how it drives.

On mine, the Juice module is fried. I had voltage feeding back through the Air Dog relay on my 2000 and it fried it... Edge wants $300 to fix it, so it sitting in the box. I may have them fix it and put it on the 2000. Who knows... Might help the 2000 sell. After that whole deal and Edge's technical side... I got kinda miffed at Edge. As for CTS vs Comp, I don't like that I have to unlock it. The comp has that 120hp good to go.

Hah. I don't want another CTS. I already have your smarty! lol! I've got a CTS sitting in the box, but I like the Comp over the CTS, unless Edge let me change the maps on the CTS to what I want.

A bit of one. I haven't messed with the smarty yet, as I have been trying to work out what I can do with the Edge. I took it on a 2000 mi trip, and played with all the settings. I will probably take it on a similar work trip soon, and will bring the smarty along for that one. Depending on the sub levels, I can actually get some pretty good performance out of it at the 2 and 3 primary levels, and 2-3 sub levels. It gets 15-17 mpg there, and I expect a gain of a couple mpg back once I put the 3rd gen track bar on. Smoke and temps are good for driving when setup in 2x3 or 3x2 and still has the performance I like. I would really like to be able to take just a shade of fuel out at the top end... and keep the timing. Temps aren't that bad when driving around, but when I floor it (say to pass) the temps get a bit warm. The main reason I haven't been able to play with it lately is that some local kids keep breaking into it trying to steal the gauges and radio. So... its parked at my office until further notice. In thinking about what Mike talked about above... I think that the higher HP injectors may not necessarily be giving more fuel themselves, but giving less of a pressure drop across the injector nozzle and allowing for a lot more fuel flow at lower pressure given by the smarty/comp. He is still correct in how the smarty and the comp will add their maps. As a side note I wonder if the injector pump sees less "pressure" at very high fueling due to the higher flow injectors. I really want to try the smarty, as I think it will give me the low end fuel and timing I want... However, I really just want them to release the new software so I can play to my hearts content. I think I am going to start on the smarty REVO at 7 and play with the settings til I find something that I like. Though, if I lose too much power from the Comp, I will probably just keep the comp going until the new smarty software comes out. The comp actually has a pretty good low end power curve for drivability, but I just want less fuel up high. I am confident in my transmission to hold whatever Smarty dishes, but I want to find a happy medium that isn't going to be too squirrely in winter. I am somewhat eager to try the "winter blend" software that is on there for automatic trucks. Hopefully that makes sense. Any ideas? ETA: as a side note, the truck will look/sound/feel like a tractor pull at the higher levels if I hold the brakes to get the turbo to spool... I only did it once, and don't plan on doing it again, but it was fun to do. 25-30psi sitting still, and 45+ and grabbing gears with the tires burning after the brakes are released.

Nice trucks guys! My poor truck is stuck at the locked yard at work since the local punks have taken to breaking into it as a habit.

You can pull the pan, and check for a shift kit or non stock parts. However, the best way would be to take it to a trusted trans shop and have it pulled and checked out.