CSM

Please get technical. So, you are saying that for a given throttle position, the larger injectors deliver more fuel? What about at idle? I thought the VP44 metered the fuel volume, at a certain pressure and that the injectors just popped at a set pressure.

The mechanical gauge will give a good reading I am sure, but as a quick check since you have the infared thermometer, throw it on the block right by the thermostat. Might be interesting if it reads higher than the gauge. (nerd on) Infared thermometers are highly variable from material to material due to the amount of heat they give off. Black matte items give the most accurate readings as they have the highest emissivity. (nerd off(

So, how does an injector "add horsepower?" Does it?I've always been under the impression that the increased nozzle size just allowed more fuel to pass through with less of a pressure drop across the injector, but only WHEN the VP sends that extra fuel? Meaning, that with stock injectors at idle, and 200hp injectors at idle, the engine is still putting the same lb/hr of fuel in. Just when the fueling box comes into play, the larger nozzles allow the fuel to be pushed through easier and faster. amirite? or amiwrong?

Yeah, you will lose some velocity with the 16". The AR design is very accurate. It isn't unusual to see sub MOA accuracy out of a "run of the mill" AR. The other cool thing is now that you have a lower, you can use it on any (aside from a few colt) uppers. I've found that the 5.56 is VERY flat out to 300 yards. My dads dedicated varmint AR is like shooting a laser.

Awesome! Those are good guns. If you have tech questions, the technical section of AR15.com is excellent, though typically aggravates black rifle disease. General discussion and the rest of the forums, not so much...

Grew up near Fort Collins. I currently live in Parker (not voluntarily! too close to Denver!) and work in ND, SD, MT, WY, CO, UT, and NM. Wyoming is great. Like old Colorado, before the hippies.

Yeah, the ones I have don't have the diffuser style lens. Its a clear lens.

Pro auto paint shops (or Eastwood Co.) have special buffing tools to remove decals with minimal damage to paint. I plan on using those, then either leaving it as is, or making a new set of decals. If I ever repaint, its going to go black or very dark grey.

Totally agree with this... The early ones I had sucked. I have the 02 fogs now and they are good. No complaints. I am not sure what bulbs are in there, probably ultra bright xeons or whatever but they work.

Well, they just passed some heinous gun bills here in Colorado this week thanks to the massive political pressure from the Democrats back east. Hopefully, we can recall the liars and work on repealing and litigating these away, but I feel it sets a scary precedent nationally. The state Democrats basically said, "f the children, f jessica's law, and screw you "pheasants" who lawfully own guns. Pray for revival, Mike. We need it.

Down here in Colorado and Wyoming I had a wolf do that to my truck tire... So I ran him down and peed on him to assert my dominance. It hasn't happened again.

The only things I can think of is that you are getting excessive flow through the heater core or there is a leak in the thermostat housing somehow. Or your housing is out of spec.

The syncros are little cylindrical clutches basically that will bring the gears to the same tooth /min RPM to mesh up that way you don't have to float the gears. This is ALL they were designed to do. They spin the clutch (when properly disengaged) down or up to the right wheel speed so that the gears can mesh. The syncros are not designed to take the stresses of trying to mesh speeds of the engine and truck (when clutch is engaged), as by floating you are basically trying to use them as clutches rather than the clutch. Also, as you wear the syncros, little pieces of friction material (with is very thin anyway) will start floating about the transmission wearing gears, bearings and other syncros much faster. Nobody "perfectly" matches RPM, and your syncros will fail. Floating is fun. I've done it. It still not good for the syncro life and when shifting properly, you really don't save any appreciable wear on your clutch. Clutch wear happens when you pull off from a dead stop, and when you do big high torque clutch dumps or shifting where you are not closely matched in RPM. So basically, all the wear happens in areas you wouldn't be floating anyway. Now, its good to try to float by syncing RPM, but use the clutch even then unless you've put a 13sp eaton in the thing and need to double clutch / float. Our trucks just aren't big rigs, even though many have more power than a Kenworth.

As a field manager who is conscious of safety requirements... I've noticed one thing. If we haven't hired the schmoe who will break it or screw it up or hurt himself on it, he is in the new hire class right now. Automatics are great for stupid proofing. And in that, I like them for over the road and heavy equipment.

Way better than any version of AutoCad I have used. You can specify everything, and the tree on the left is great. You can "mate" surfaces, gears, and pretty much graphically crash your computer with large assemblies. But, you can make great animations and drawings without much effort once the assemblies are done.

Man, its a good thing I didn't nominate him for TOTM. He wouldn't have been able to post pics. Hope he gets well soon... back problems suck.

Solid works is very nice too.

I love this place. Always learning.

What do you mean by older engines? Are we talking old 6-71 Detroits or old 300 RPM fly wheel diesels?

But if it settles... wouldn't it just settle out in the bottom of the pan and in the galleries? How big is a soot particle? Chemically speaking, as just carbon with some hangers on, is it really detrimental to the engine as long as its evenly distributed in the oil? Cool article I found regarding soot... They are trying to sell their product but it sounds as if it dropped out of suspension it would cause issues with lubrication. http://home.servcofs.com/images/E0038501/EnergyInsider1_11.pdf - - - Updated - - - I also wonder if we could get fine enough filtration to get the soot... if we wouldn't be filtering out the detergents and perhaps even the hydrocarbons themselves.

Welcome. Buy Ted Cruz a beer for me when you see him.

Power and heat? Then get power heated with brackets or make the brackets.

If you stay on dry pavement... Michelin LTX has been a great tire for me and others. Size really is up to you, the factory size should be on the drivers door or door frame.

Nope. I have a set on the truck... do you need an extra set of mirrors? - - - Updated - - - If you want power, heated, and have the wiring for it, then as long as you have the brackets then yes, its plug and play. If you don't have the wiring, get manual mirrors for way less $$$.

http://www.am-autoparts.com/2002/Dodge/Ram-2500-Truck/Mirrors/AM-21943512/380857.html I bought some from these guys last week to replace the manual ones and they are very nice... came with all hardware aside from the sheetmetal brackets.