CSM

Ill see what i can do.

nevermind. posted above. It is interesting to see the differential above! I kinda am starting to think that the turbine EGT limitations are not from the turbine wheel itself, but from the heat transfer capacity of the bearings/oil flow. I agree that burned pistons are more of a concern than a turbine though. Turbines tend to be killed due to hot shutdowns. On another note, I recall reading in a Northrop A&P text from WW2 that the majority of the heat from a valve travels through the stem, not the seat. Pistons and burned valves are a bit of a concern... but not a huge one as our engines have decent oiling.

Randy's ring and pinion, yukon axle. They would be my first calls for parts. If you broke a 70 and have access to an 80, put the 80 in. I broke a 70 and if you are horsing around enough to break spiders, you are likely about to twist off an axle as well.

I didnt know you worked on their site as well! Neat!

I have done similar low pressures and liked the ride... With stiffer sidewalls i got away with it.

Probably... i think they they posted a few on youtube.

Roadkill garage is my favorite, but i have been a steve dulcich fan for 20 years. Roadkill is ok anymore... The latest 69 Mach 1 rescue is great.

This is a good one

I wonder what the hardness and depth of hardness of a pressure plate and flywheel are.

At least they are highway.

Yikes. I wonder why? Not enough pressure or perhaps driving style?

Well, Chrysler didnt paint it and the old man who owned it put some black astroturf in there which collected water from the dry rotted trunk seal. Now there are some sizable holes, but there is enough to patch back together. Fortunately, the drain holes in the trunk extensions never got plugged, so the quarters and extensions are solid. The main body of rust is right on top of the gas tank. The tank is ok as it was galvanized. The underside had a very liberal undercoat which really helped, along with it being a mostly fair weather car for the guy who owned it. They dont make new trunk floors for this old of a c body. I am planning on a por15 trunk floor kit.

It is different. Definitely solid and designed to be maintained. Everything but the mostly bulletproof transmission and rear end is really easy to work on. Its like it was designed by engineers who grew up working on clunkers during the war. Its far easier to work on than even a 70s mopar. I have a one car garage. The Chrysler lives in it during driving season and either moves to the family barn or a nice enclosed car hauler in the winter.

I use it as a driver on nice days. I went and got brake pads for the ram and stopped by the archery range to renew my membership on the way home. It will get new exhaust, seat skins, and seatbelts soon... then its ready to be the family weekender. If i can get it ready in time it will be at the super cruise july or August.

Drum brakes... bad, right? Old chrysler guys knew what they were about. Dual wheel cylinders, one for each shoe makes a very clean design. Even the 64 and later brakes are not as easy to rebuild. I wish our rams had drum adjustments on the rear like these. A 7 16ths socket actuates a cam which moves the shoe. Tighten til it rubs slightly, then back off. It doesnt have a wheel to click over an unknown number of turns hidden in a greasy hole like more modern designs.

Sorry for the spoiler... I deleted it. My favorite roadkill car is either the Impala or the 70 Super Bee. Though, the A body Barracuda early on was a lot of fun. As was Harry the towtruck. I also love the crop duster.

edited. sorry The rotsun is a decent concept, similar to the vette-kart, but it fails to deliver like the vette-kart. It keeps breaking. Whereas, the vette-kart was too reliable and a bit too ugly to be popular. I love the roadkill garage episodes.

A set of harbor freight lines, a can of refrigerant, and a loaner vac pump from an auto parts store is pretty easy. The rest of the troubleshooting can be easy or complcated. My clutch died, but a new pump and r134a and its been solid since.

Well... you could disconnect the hydroboost lines as well. I didnt. You also will likely have a bit more time turning the wheels too and fro then topping off the reservoir than you expect. Priming took me a while.

We never did much other than oil changes when they first showed up. A couple techs hot rodded them from the factory and even on the stock ones we ran them around 2200-2600 hp on 100% duty. The tweaked CAT 3412s were up around 3200hp for one season, then kaboom. I think the philosophy changed not too long after I left that side of the company and they actually built a PM program.

I briefly considered asking you to ban yourself. We ran those engines on frac pumps. Ours did not last as long as yours... They were run until they stopped running or blew up. Something about running well past normal continuous power for months on end.

I put the alternator field on a switch. I makes no difference if the alternator is powered or not. @pepsi71ocean No change. This in itself is also odd, as the alternator field powers the trans relay, it shut the alternator down but didn't do jack to the trans. I haven't figured that part out. Interesting thought on batteries... I haven't done a voltage drop test. Thanks.

I have done the procedure here. http://www.dodgecumminsapps.com/page04.html My truck normally shifts great. Once in a while, usually in hot weather, the lockup with shuttle closed-open-closed really fast for one to four cycles between 40 and 65mph. Above or below that, it won't shuttle.

I am not an expert in the 12v. That said. I have been chasing my converter for a long time. Mine comes, goes, and seems like my truck is a union truck. If I don't drive it much, it shifts perfectly. If I drive it daily, about a month in, it starts to shuttle. I found improvements in cleaning or replacing grounds, replacing alternator that was way out of VAC spec. I also found improvment for a short time by cleaning my transmission output speed sensor. Beyond that, I haven't figured it out. It seems to be worse at high ambient temperature. Above 60F it gets more common to almost constant at 100F when I am driving at less than 65mph. Above 65, I don't see any issues.