CSM

To preface, I haven't run a "correctly" packed posi/limited slip like WnF mentioned. However, I have installed a TrueTrac in a Dana 44 equipped Ram 1500 after the factory limited slip tried to eat itself. I liked the truetrac a lot. As it is a torque biasing diff, it drove like an open diff unless I appled enough power and there was some difference in RPM of the two rear wheels. When I did get into it and applied power, it would lock up. I did some very over ambitious 4 wheeling with the truck, and when you are on three wheels, the wheel not touching the ground will spin, unlike a detroit. However, in 99% of the driving I did it worked flawlessly. It didn't seem to fishtail as much as a detroit would in snow, and it wouldn't "ratchet" unless you turned really tight with lots of power or backed up with lots of power. I really liked the truetrac, and would put it in again... However, I don't do enough off road in my Cummins to warrant anything over the open rear end. If I can't get where I need with chains in 4x4, I probably shouldn't drive there, though I didn't let that stop me when I was younger.

tag to see points...

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1361999&m=wc&l=en&html=true Mostly brake parts, some electrical, seals and rear drums.

To be honest with you, I am very tempted to just put up the complete new Juice CTS kit they sent me and not even worry about the chip. I just want this electrical nightmare to end.

Since the pcm isn't throwing any codes and the voltage gauge isn't showing anything close to what my voltmeter is showing, I am suspicious that I have more than my regulator burned out on the pcm. Otherwise, I would go the old school voltage regulator route. Its not like I don't have the plugs or regulators in the shop!

Can you regulate to 15-18psi?And whats the GPH at 15-18psi through the system?Hard to say how good it would be without rigging it up as your parasitic friction losses would be hard to estimate, but it might end up being decent if you can get decent flows at 16psi or so.

Sometimes with all the complexity of our codes & readers you can't beat a hammer and a voltmeter.

We shall see if the PCM is it, I sure hope it is. Edge has been decent overall. Sofar my expectations are met. They haven't been exceeded. As for their tech guys... I haven't found that their tech guys are on their game as much as they are willing to throw new parts at the problem. They have been quick to send new parts and tell me how to use their Fusion software to flash the CTS, but it took a lot of pressure to get them to actually tell me what was failing on the unit. At first it they told me that they gave me a bad Edge kit. Then it was "something burned out, but we don't know what." I had requested details for the actual failure in a letter form as well, but that got ignored. Finally, after spending the morning on hold with them recently they told me that it was most likely an over powering of the unit from one of the power supply leads. Still not super detailed, but knowing that a part was burned out rather than having a wiring harness or connector not pass Q/C sure helps in my troubleshooting process. Edge is a good company, they have good tech support, but their tier 1 tech support are not quite wizzards. However, I am very happy that they are an American company that speaks english.

69k? Its jus a baby! I thought they came from the factory with more miles than that!

When I was researching, I decided on an AirDog 100. The option that fits your requirements seems to be a Airdog Raptor pump. IE: http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/airdog/raptor.htm

Check the fuse under the hood. I had this problem recently, occasionally the starter would "click" then pop a fuse under the hood, I couldn't find anything wrong with the truck, so I replaced the starter. The old starter had burned up contacts.Fast forward a bit, after replacing a ton of expensive electrical parts, I learn that my PCM (with internal voltage regulator) is allowing the charging system to run full time. I was putting 18V through the entire system of the truck without throwing any overcharging codes. My voltmeter on the dash also shows 13-14 volts as well, but the DVM doesn't lie and shows 17.5-18V when off, and 19V when running. Its currently in for a new PCM at Chrysler, but I feel that it is highly likely that the high voltage and overcharged batteries were the cause of burning up the contacts on my starter (early arcing & heat), which burned up the fuses and in the end of the starter. (and ECM, and, 3 juice modules, and... :banghead:)At any rate, your starter contacts may be at fault, or they may just be poorly made... But there also may be an underlying cause of the failure, where the contacts are merely a symptom. It wouldn't hurt to throw a DVM on the batteries and the main bus to check the voltage there.

Unfortunately, things such as drug testing and follow up for the legitimacy of the need, is lacking. Entitlement programs are way out of hand. Our defninition of "poor" is very strange, at least for the majority of people in the system. Here is an interesting video Not to hijack, but interesting related thread that I read yesterday... http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1218014_Let_me_give_you_some_insight_into_ghetto_culture___lengthy_read.html

Like yourself ISX, I love engines. You are a far more experienced Cummins mechanic than I, and know a lot about this stuff. I always enjoy reading your posts. Its really a shame that there aren't many engine design jobs out there... All I wanted when I graduated was to work for CAT or CUMMINS on diesels. Unfortunately, I couldn't get a job there due to the fact my GPA was less than 3.5. As it turns out, becoming an oilfield dude (not quite oilfield trash) is a better fit. However, I still love reading about engines, the research, the knowledge that has already been painstakingly recorded in textbooks and largely forgotten. The old technology, though quite serviceable, is usually pushed aside. Your 12V cummins, with its bullet proof P pump will probably be the last of its type sold here. My 24V, will also be the last of its type sold here. New tech is nice, and I wouldn't mind a new 6.7L CTD, but I love the old 5.9. There are many amazing engines from the past, with much of the innovation taking place from WW1 to the beginning of the Jet Age. Since this is a diesel forum, I will post the diesel I like the most right now. The NAPIER DELTIC. It had no valves and no heads. But it had 3 crankshafts! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Napier_Deltic

If its the same result with a "new" pump, there could be another blockage in the fuel system. How are the filters?

I have no knowledge about the early Cummins engines, but do you have any photos of the install/car?:piwwp:I used to threaten to put a 24V cummins in my barracuda, which always causes my dad to roll his eyes and grumble about the atrocity.

Welcome to the site. I am also an oilfield engineer. Good luck in your studies and your truck.

Off. As for why, it just seemed like a failure mode that popped into my head that I hadn't thought of, since the Dodge & Cummins techs were adamant that it was a Cummins ECM issue causing all the mayhem. Have you seen this before? I figure it would probably be higher when the engine was running, and 18V is pretty well over the ~14.5 peak that you see on a normal charging system. Batteries are yellow top optimas. I have a peak voltage tester that I considered using to test the peak V for spikes and whatnot, but figured that it just wasn't worth the effort after seeing 18V. The diodes I used for the tester were also only rated for very small currents (I use it to test Honda motorcycle ignitions) so I didn't want to burn out $15 in diodes.

I think I may have learned what the cause of all this is. I can't believe that I didn't think of it, and that none of the Cummins or Dodge techs didn't think to check.I am showing 18V across the batteries, even with the leads disconnected, and the system is overcharging. That has probably been the cause of burning out my VP44, lift pump, ECM, and four edge juice modules. Wow. Talk about missing the obvious? Now for a new PCM from Chrysler on top of the rest of the stuff. Dang this is getting expensive... If this doesn't fix this truck, its for sale. :lmao:Good note on Edge, they are sending me a complete replacement Juice CTS module. I have to say that I am impressed by their customer service in this... Although I would have expected that the Juice modules could take more than 18V. This also could have been cleared up much earlier if I didn't have to drag it out of their tech team what exactly was burning out. Once I started pushing to find what exactly was burning out it made perfect sense. My old juice didn't burn out my ECM. My PCM quietly destroyed both, while throwing no codes, and letting the gauges read normally.

Mike, Care to re-up this photo? This may be very significant in my trucks Edge woes. Thanks! -Mike --- Update to the previous post... Nevermind. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=134:voltage-regulator-mod&catid=34&Itemid=115

I agree with you. I bought into the cool factor though. If I can get edge to take a return, I am probably going to get a Comp module like you have... There is one for sale near me for FAR less than I paid for the crappy CTS. Interestingly enough though, the turbo timer is working. The bad part is that the turbo timer never shuts off.

ETA: Update in later posts. Edge not most likely culprit! ---Rant part.Well, Guys, I need to vent. And if you have any suggestions, I am interested, because as soon as they will cut me a check for their un-fixable product, I am going to go with something else. I have had it with Edge Products Juice CTS. I have had this chip for 6 months and it has never actually worked, its been through (from Edge) three Juice Modules, two CTS modules, a new wiring harness (complete) and its been RMA'ed back to edge once for them to work on it. They said that they found an issue with it, and that it should work and sent it back to me. It got back without the pressure transducer that I sent it in with, but hey, small price to pay for a product that works right? FALSE. No pressure transducer, and no Juice. Guess what, after all the working with them, paying 1200 on a new Cummins ECM, and putting countless hours into it, IT STILL DOESN'T WORK! I mean, I have probably installed the Juice w CTS a dozen separate times now, I can do it properly in less than 15min. I have done my due diligence and then some as a customer. Hopefully they call me back on monday, because they either need to send me something that works, or I need my money back. I have had a Juice with Attitude on the same truck, worked fine until the ECM stopped responding to the three prong dataport. I have a sneaky suspicion that the previous Edge unit even caused the ECM to take a ____, as they both stopped working properly on the same day... And it is very unusual for ECMs to die, especially on perfectly running trucks that have NEVER had anything but the edge on it. If my work wasn't booming right now, I would drive to Edge in Utah and talk to them in person, with their inoperative products not working in person. The sad part is that Edge has a good reputation, I mean, if I wanted a product with a little less quality control, I would have gotten an adrenaline or something.

Another consideration is the creature comforts. Aside from some of the very late build 12V trucks, 1998-1998.5 IIRC, they have the old interior. I personally prefer the new interior,the new seats, and the rear doors on the extended cab trucks. I also absolutely LOVE the in seat seat belts in the 98-02 pickups. The controls are mostly similar, the steering wheel on the post 98 trucks is more comfortable in my opinion. The a/c and heat work pretty much the same. The 1/4 windows locking mechanism is a little harder to pinch wimminz fingers in the newer trucks. The wind noise is still there in the newer trucks as well. The old ones are decent, but I have to say that they 94-97 pickups have one of the worst cupholders ever designed. They aren't worth much more than a place to clip an ipod or phone to. The cupholders in the 98 and newer automatics are great though. The dashes in the later build 24 valves seem to crack a lot. I have not heard of many of the older trucks have dash cracking issues.

Good luck man. I replaced the ECM in mine, and it runs like a champ... However the edge juice still won't connect to the ECM. It is currently back at Edge for a checkout. The other bonus of a Chrysler ECM, 12 year unconditional warranty, no matter who installs or what you flash it with.

I wanna play! Ford Bashing! :ahhh:At home, my dad bought a new 1997 F-350 7.3L powerstroke, auto, 4 door, long bed... Huge truck. It ran great for the first 50k. Then, it started getting wimpy. We ended up trading it in after the truck couldn't get out of its own way in the mountains. We took it hunting after it had about 70k on it and it got stuck on a 6" root and didn't have the torque to get a wheel over it outside of low range. Pathetic. Turns out on the early Powerstrokes, they had a faulty air filter design that would allow dust into the engine, killing the compression and allowing tons of blowby. Ford should have replaced the engine, but instead told us that at 79,000 mi, it was out of warranty and not their problem, but it "drove fine" when they looked at it. My dad has since seen the light, and now has a CR 5.9. When I worked at the same dealership that sold my dad his ford, my lube bay was next to the diesel bay. That poor mechanic had to pull the entire cab off the truck to work on certain parts of the engine. It was normal to see him spend days pulling the cabs off new trucks to change stupid little stuff it would take a couple hours to change on a Cummins or Cat engine. I always figured if they wanted a damn cabover, they should have made the cab flip like a Cabover should!