IBMobile

I just called the 785-4cables, 785-422-2537, recording came on saying "the Jack customer you have called is unavailable to take your call. Please a message after the tone". So your guess is as good as mine. Can you have them made locally? In my area there are two battery shops that will make starter, ground or RV cable to specifications.

A very nice write-up!

I know a guy in Idaho that has 3 of them sitting in his yard right now that are ripe for the picking.

If it is a drum axle you would need an EGR rear brake conversion kit. An added pita, I don't think it's worth it .

I found one on E-BAY but it may be for drum brakes. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2001-Dodge-Ram-2500-Diesel-Spicer-Dana-80-Rear-Axle-limited-slip-New-Oem-/121937623247

Right. Dana 70U axles have 32 splines and were fitted in most 2ed gens. A Dana 70 has 35 spline axles.

Has anyone tried with the cover off installing the seal with a press or even a C clamp? Using a piece of wood to support the housing and spread the load and a large socket to fit the circumference of the seal place it in the press or C-clamp and tighten till flush. By doing this you're not beating on the seal with uneven pressure which could cause it to deform and it should go in straight.

Here's the NADA and RTV web sites for price checking. Remember, these are only price guides and actual value my differ due to supply and demand along with condition and options. http://www.nadaguides.com/RVs http://www.rvt.com/price-checker/?searched=true

I found out the original fenders were just slapped on at the factory. The right side had a 1"+ variation between front and back, never noticed it before. I found the center line between the axles and the center line of the new fender, measured down 1½ " from the molding above the wheel wells, drilled and installed. I think trying to hammer a curve into it with out knowing the radius, having a jig and annealing it would be a bit hard to do. Now I have a sheet 28" x 96" left that I'm going to use as a rock shield on the lower front part of the 5er with more pics to come about that.

Go to the Articles, click on 24 valve 2ed generation, click on transmission and transfer case, now find the write up at the bottom called torque converter lock/unlock issues. This is a good place to start.

RVs' value drop faster than a squirrel falling from a tree. The RV dealer will tell you one thing on the phone to get you to haul it to his place and then low ball you hoping that you won't want to drag it back. I put my set-up together because my wife likes to do day trips and take pictures. I like to fish and she doesn't. Now she only goes camping if the grand kids are with use or we go some where new. It's hard to tell what the future will be but the value of that toy hauler isn't going up so unload it PDQ. When you're ready to get a new set-up reevaluate your situation and think of how it will work for you 10+ years out, as you can see things change.

Got that sheet of 3003 aluminum today at 12:30 and had the fenders hanging by 5:30. Cut the sheet down to 20" x 96" on the table saw using a fairly new carbide blade. Thanks Driply ! Did a lay out to maximize material Make a copy and cut that one out. cut out and the edges sanded with 220 grit paper in a palm sander One side installed temporarily. Now the top of the fender is lined up with were the original fender was but the original fender curved under the body and I can't bend the aluminum to follow the curve with out heating it. I'm going to raise the fender about 1" until the bottom is even with the trailer body. That should finish it off.

Try this get a 1-2" sheet metal screw, a #8 should do and the longer the better. Now drill into the broken crank sensor with a drill bit a little smaller that the screw, about an ⅛" bit, Put the screw into the sensor and with a pair of vice grips you can hopefully pull it out.

With the key in the off position pull the relay out and find terminal 30. Now with a test light or volt meter set for 20 volts DC test the corresponding plug. If you have battery voltage there then the rely is wired direct to the battery. If there is no voltage turn ignition on and test again. if there is no voltage then it is most likely wired backwards and you'd find voltage at the wire for terminal 87.

Pull the relay out and start the truck. If you have no fuel pressure than that's the relay.

Since the use of fire in a cave man has been using wood for heat and to cook. In that time humans have learned how to safely vent the byproduct gases and particulates. If you did have a leak in the stove or vent pipe in the room/house then you would have a high level of CO gas.

I charged up the battery for the camera and will take a few pic of the process. I'll probably start this project the beginning of next week. I've got a Delta Contractor Saw with a 30" Unifence and plan on using an old carbide blade. Since the material is .063" thick putting the blade about .25" above the deck should give a clean cut. Any thoughts?

Well the Boss gave the diamond plate the go ahead so I went to two metal supply venders today. The first place had it only in 3003 aluminum 48"x96" x.125" for $186. The next supplier had 3003 aluminum 48"x96"x.063" for $110. I think that .063" will work just fine. I should be able to cut it down to the 12"x72" on my table saw with a carbide blade and do the radius cuts with the jig saw. I might put the rest of the diamond plate as trim on the front of the 5er.

I was up in that area last spring towing my 8,000 lb 5er with no problem on a stock turbo with an Edge EZ and a boost elbow. I had no problems go up or down the mountains.

Never, ever put a bigger fuse in to test for a short circuit. The wires will heat up and burn thing around them before the fuse will blow. I had to fix the aftermath of an electrical fire because someone put a 16 amp fuse where an 8 amp went.

I like the idea of diamond plate. I'm thinking 3003 aluminum @ .025 thick, each side 12"x72" and trimmed to fit. Now I have to run it by the boss and see if she likes it or not.

Not so fast Kemosabe. The special California can has a valve in the top that shuts the flow off when the can is disconnected so you can put in what you want and save the rest for later. You need to use the thread on adapter to mate the can to the A/C gage fill hose. If you live in CA you get to pay a $10 a can deposit and if you don't turn in the empty can in 90 days you loose the deposit, the state keeps your money. I bought a case of 134a cans in Las Vegas, same cans as in CA but no deposit required. I use them now for my refund.

How about dumping a can of this in?http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/INTC/R134AUV12CA.oap?ck=Search_134a+with+uv_-1_2902&keyword=134a+with+uv

He left off how to quiet a throttle rod knock or spin a Johnson rod bearing.