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Those are the same numbers my fuel boss delivers. Save your money!

The floor grates for the trailer's heater vents were beat up so I made new ones out of the scrap. pieces.

I'd pop the top of the case off and check it out. If a bearing went out you'd think you would hear it grinding for a while before it took a dump. Also if the input shaft (4th gear) bearing went bad and went to pieces it wouldn't mesh with the counter shaft properly and you'd lose 1ed and 2ed . Could it be that the shift rail or sliding hub for 3/4 selection jammed up due to a broken synchro ring or dog? I've rebuilt a few 4 and 5 speed trans over the years and like the others have said it's not hard and it's not brain surgery. If you take your time and pay attention to details with a few hand tools and a gear puller you'll be able to due it.

Do you have room to comfortably carry portable solar panels in your truck camper when traveling? In a 30' travel trailer there is room inside or in a basement compartment to store it but how much room in a cab over truck camper?

Check out this site and use the side arrows for other articles on solar. http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camper-tech/systems/installing-a-solar-panel-system-part-1/

Thank his Lucky Charms you were there to help that felonious amateur arborist. He must have missed that part on You-Tube Well who do you think is paying for his medical care? I think it would have been a lot cheaper and less painful if he had hired a tree surgeon and not an orthopedic surgeon. Penny wise, pound foolish.

In Mike's diagram terminal 86 of both relays are used to ground them. The black wires join together then a switch is shown. After the switch there is the symbol for ground. The ground can be just about any metal part of a vehicle. Run the ground wire (black) from the relay to a rocker or toggle switch mounted in the dash and then a wire from the switch to a metal bracket under the dash.

wire size chart https://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html

To the body or chassis https://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html . In the ground wire circuit.

Nappa has 1/8 -27NTP tap part № BK T440 for $18.49 and 1/4 -18NTP tap part № BK T-302 for $6.99. drill bit size: 11/32 for 1/8 NTP, 7/6 for 1/4 NTP.

I just called the 785-4cables, 785-422-2537, recording came on saying "the Jack customer you have called is unavailable to take your call. Please a message after the tone". So your guess is as good as mine. Can you have them made locally? In my area there are two battery shops that will make starter, ground or RV cable to specifications.

A very nice write-up!

I know a guy in Idaho that has 3 of them sitting in his yard right now that are ripe for the picking.

If it is a drum axle you would need an EGR rear brake conversion kit. An added pita, I don't think it's worth it .

I found one on E-BAY but it may be for drum brakes. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2001-Dodge-Ram-2500-Diesel-Spicer-Dana-80-Rear-Axle-limited-slip-New-Oem-/121937623247

Right. Dana 70U axles have 32 splines and were fitted in most 2ed gens. A Dana 70 has 35 spline axles.

Has anyone tried with the cover off installing the seal with a press or even a C clamp? Using a piece of wood to support the housing and spread the load and a large socket to fit the circumference of the seal place it in the press or C-clamp and tighten till flush. By doing this you're not beating on the seal with uneven pressure which could cause it to deform and it should go in straight.

Here's the NADA and RTV web sites for price checking. Remember, these are only price guides and actual value my differ due to supply and demand along with condition and options. http://www.nadaguides.com/RVs http://www.rvt.com/price-checker/?searched=true

I found out the original fenders were just slapped on at the factory. The right side had a 1"+ variation between front and back, never noticed it before. I found the center line between the axles and the center line of the new fender, measured down 1½ " from the molding above the wheel wells, drilled and installed. I think trying to hammer a curve into it with out knowing the radius, having a jig and annealing it would be a bit hard to do. Now I have a sheet 28" x 96" left that I'm going to use as a rock shield on the lower front part of the 5er with more pics to come about that.

Go to the Articles, click on 24 valve 2ed generation, click on transmission and transfer case, now find the write up at the bottom called torque converter lock/unlock issues. This is a good place to start.

RVs' value drop faster than a squirrel falling from a tree. The RV dealer will tell you one thing on the phone to get you to haul it to his place and then low ball you hoping that you won't want to drag it back. I put my set-up together because my wife likes to do day trips and take pictures. I like to fish and she doesn't. Now she only goes camping if the grand kids are with use or we go some where new. It's hard to tell what the future will be but the value of that toy hauler isn't going up so unload it PDQ. When you're ready to get a new set-up reevaluate your situation and think of how it will work for you 10+ years out, as you can see things change.

Got that sheet of 3003 aluminum today at 12:30 and had the fenders hanging by 5:30. Cut the sheet down to 20" x 96" on the table saw using a fairly new carbide blade. Thanks Driply ! Did a lay out to maximize material Make a copy and cut that one out. cut out and the edges sanded with 220 grit paper in a palm sander One side installed temporarily. Now the top of the fender is lined up with were the original fender was but the original fender curved under the body and I can't bend the aluminum to follow the curve with out heating it. I'm going to raise the fender about 1" until the bottom is even with the trailer body. That should finish it off.

Try this get a 1-2" sheet metal screw, a #8 should do and the longer the better. Now drill into the broken crank sensor with a drill bit a little smaller that the screw, about an ⅛" bit, Put the screw into the sensor and with a pair of vice grips you can hopefully pull it out.

With the key in the off position pull the relay out and find terminal 30. Now with a test light or volt meter set for 20 volts DC test the corresponding plug. If you have battery voltage there then the rely is wired direct to the battery. If there is no voltage turn ignition on and test again. if there is no voltage then it is most likely wired backwards and you'd find voltage at the wire for terminal 87.