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Pressure in my Fuel Boss dropped to 14 @ idle 16@ cruse and 21@ wot. I removed the fuel pressure regulator and found it stuck open. I blew through it the other way and pushed out what ever was holding the valve open. Now it's back to 19@idle and 21@ wot.

I took a bunch of them apart back in the day. If your ring, pinon, and spider gears are ok than just change the bearings. The axle housing that Dana makes is so well machined that I'd press off the old bearings and press on the new ones using the same shims, never had a problem with noise. If the gears are worn then It a lot of work and a pain in the a@@ to set up. This you want to leave to a pro. Get the pinon depth and prelaod or ring gear backlash and contact pattern wrong and your tearing it back down. I'd get a used one put that in and keep the old core as a rebuild unit.

That's what I'm starting to think all so. If I unplug the EZ the check engine light will come on setting a code P0234 engine over boost condition? The description of the MAP sensor on page 14-103 states "Engine protection is used to derate (drop power off) the engine if turbocharger pressure becomes to high." I can't find at what psi is to high. I might have to take out the boost elbow, be fore it was put in max boost was 18psi.

No typo. This is live data. the boost gauge on the A post reads 0 at idle and 26-28 wot. The live data only comes in metric so I have to convert it. The data came in at 101 kPa (14.65 psi) engine off or at idle, this is close to atmospheric pressure and the same base reading I had 3 years ago. Now that said, the wot reading of 217 kPa (31.37psi) is higher than the base reading of 200 kPa (29.0 psi) so it looks like my boost gauge is of by at lest 3psi. At what pressure does defueling take place? NOTE: As the rpms go down so does the boost pressure and still no power so would the defueling problem correct itself until the next over boost?

When I first got my 5er I went to Home Depot and bought rigged foam insulation sheets with foil, some 4'x8'x2" and 4'x8'x4". I cut to fit and glued them under the floor and on the inside of the compartments. I used Liquid Nails for the gluing. I then pulled the front cap up and the cover under the sleeping area and installed R-13 insulation. The 5er came with tank heaters so that part was covered. I do have to let the water run so the hose from the bib to the trailer doesn't freeze.

Thanks for the feed back guys. MAP pressure is 14.65 psi @ idle and 31.47 psi on a hill wide open and not towing. I opened the EZ box and it was as clean as new. The exhaust is 4" and straight through and I don't think the turbo would spool up if it was blocked. The only time I notice the lack of power is when I'm towing. The truck runs great when empty. :banghead:

I changed the fuel filter the day before I went camping, 8-8-2013. My code reader does read live data and I have live data read out from 3 years ago that I can compare.

UP DATE: I still don't have full power. I checked the connection for the crank sensor, and it's OK. I found the data link connector for the Edge EZ unplugged and the grounds at both batteries a little loose. I took it out on a short camping/fishing trip this weekend and no power going up hills. The peddle is to the floor and barely over 60 mph. I think the air filter may be bad, being it's washable and it has been wash twice. I read some were that the element can brake down after being washed and restrict the air volume. I'm going to put the stock air filter back on and see how it goes. One more thing, there are no new codes. l

Sorry to hear about the tree limb on the hood ,more money out of your pocket, but a good deal on the used body parts. Here in CA a good 2 stage paint job goes for $1500 to $2000. You can go to a production shop ,like Macco, and get one for $400-$600 but in a year it will look like S%. Also out here they use a water base paint that meets the CARB (California Air Resource Board) specs. If I want a good job I have to go to Arizona or Tia Junana, Mexico. See if you can find a good painter that will do it on the side. Some times the guy will buy the paint and rent a spray booth. Call around and / or ask friends and coworkers what their experiences have been. Remember, just because the guy has a spray paint gun doesn't make him a painter . Good Luck.

Time for a heater core at the least. The heater fan motor may be on it's way out or it could be the resister pack, it's what controls the power to the fan motor after the fan switch.

You might be a little slow going up hills. My 5er's gross dry wt is 5995#, the gvwr is 7960# and the hitch weight is 960#. When it's all loaded up and I tow my boat trailer with a 14' Bass Tracker, a 110# outboard and fire wood stuffed in it behind the 5vr, the truck is on the helpers and 55 to 60mph going up a 6% grade. I estimate I'm pulling 9,000#, that's not counting the wife and all the junk she packs in the back seat of the cab.

Glad to hear it was an ez install and it looks good too.

Looks like you're going to have your hands full putting all the wires and plumbing in. Have a cold one and dive in.

I drive mine the same way as CAJFLYNN does, OD and cruise control on for most of the tow and OD off for hills.

I've seen a dyno test done on a street racer, a Honda I think. A stock filter v a bhaf in a "cold air box" v a bhaf in a cold air box with a 4" hose routed under the bumper for fresh air. only a small gain in HP was seen with the 4" hose.

Here is the closeup of the boost gauge at the bottom of a 3 gauge pod.

That's right. I took some closeup pictures of it an hour ago and need to have my son up load them. Hopefully they will be up tomorrow.

This is how I put in my 4 gauges. The one on the bottom left is my boost gauge.

That's a good idea. .. If I start to have problems, which I haven't, I'd put in an adjustable regulator.

Put a voltmeter on the battery and see if the the drop in pressure corresponds to a drop in voltage. Try to use a digatil meter and run jumper wires to the cab so you can watch fuel and voltage at the same time.

Pondsy, don't forget to flush the brake system. It needs to be done every 30-40k mi.

I ran mine all most the same route as Diesl4life but not up the trans dipstick tube. I used a tube cutter on the out line where it goes vertical at the right rear of the block. You'll get some fluid drain out but not a lot.

I like it! Now the big question, did you get a bear?

Mine was more like the corner of the overhang into the side of the trailer. punched a hole in the side. The R-V shop wanted $475 to repair it. A little Bondo with fiberglass, glazing putty, and a rattlecan paint job. The total time less than 1.5 hr, cost less than $25.......

Been there, done that....to a roof at a strip mall. These are the things that make it a memberal trip.