IBMobile

I'm with Oldbeek on this, pop the cover off and inspect, look for metal flakes and check for play at axles in the spider gears. It's cheap to inspect, some rtv sealent and 85w-140 gear oil. most of the gear oil I've seen comes with the limited slip additive in it now.

Fan clutch has gone bad and need to get a new one. Which fan clutch does a good job at a fair price? I don't want an electric fan. I drive the truck only 4k to 6k miles a year and the pay back in fuel savings, if any, would be seen until after I'm dead. I've check the price on Hayden ( $102 ), NAPPA ( $122 ), and 4-Seasons ( $143 they must be real proud of theirs). So what have you put in and how do you like it?

I was sure the Vett would take it. [*] :banghead:

My 8 ton bottle jack was from Harbor Freight and hecho en China.

I use a 6 ton bottle jack on my 4 ton 5er. I keep the rear stabilizers up. Put the jack under the axle just behind the wheel I want up. I've done 1 axle flat trailers to 3 axle horse trailers that way.

What people call the ignition switch is generally made up of three components. First is the key and tumbler. This is the locking portion. next is the bolt that locks the steering column. Last is the ignition switch which is the electrical portion of the whole assembly. Now as for to much weight on the key ring, pick up your key ring and hold the ignition key between your thumb and for finger and fell how heavy it is. That's how much weight that key is applying to the tumblers and cylinder. Now drive down a bumpy road and that heavy key ring is bouncing up and down pulling the ignition key with it. Premature failure.

All bearings have a "timkin" number on them. The combination of numbers/ letters are used for that bearing only no matter who make it. If you can find that number on the bearing you could get it from a supplier. NOTE: some auto and truck bearings are manufacture specific and can not be found on the open market. I tried to rebuild a Volvo transfer case the other day. I went to my supplier for new bearings and races, no go, they were dealer idem only.

What brand are they?

You might want to spray some Liquid Wrench or P B Blaster on those fittings while waiting for those parts.

So did you replace it or just clean it when you had the core out?

Here's where the transmission fluid temp sensor is located on my truck. If I had known your lines were that bad with rust I would have told you to replace them too. I wasn't thinking about rust because we don't get it real bad in southeren Califronia.

You can have both inlet and outlet pipe hot but have a heat core with 50% blockage. You would have cold spots on the heater core just like a plugged up radiator. I would try to flush it and see what happens. It's the cheapest and easiest thing to start with.

The trans hose is a quick cheap fix. Buy 1 ft of trans cooling hose and 2 small hose clamps from any parts house, about $8, cut the pipe with a small pipe cutter slide the hose clamps on the pipe then slide the hose on to the pipe. Befor putting hose on lube pipe with Vasoline. I've hade this type of a fix last over 5 yr. I put the trans tempsender on the cooling pipe coming of the front pump. It will give you the hottest moving fluid temp. I bought the fittings from a Parker store up the road from me. You have to use a small pipe cutter and take about 1" of pipe put. I'll try to have a picture of it tomorrow.

The older Volvos have a problem like that where the trans cool pipe would get rubbed through. I cut the line with a tube cutter and slide transmission hose over the pipe with two mini hose clamps. Another way is to cut out the bad part and splice in a new tube with line unions.

I agree with dripley. You're not getting a good flow over or through the heater core. The heater core is just a small radiator/ heat exchange unit.

A bear broke into my truck and snapped the thing that holds the cup holder level. My wife found a basket that fits under it at just the right height. So now I have some thing under the holder to through things in.

I always do engine oil pressure tests at the oil sender. You can see if the dash gauge is reading the same as the test gauge. The oil pressure sender is usually at a point in an oil galley that's after the oil filter and before the main crank journals. The pressure gauge I use goes to 300 PSI because I use it on auto transmissions also. I think if you find one that goes to 100 PSI you'll be fine.

Factory oil filter:"The bypass valve is calibrated to open when it sees a pressure drop of more the 50 PSI across the oil filter." (9-292)

Hey, FLAGMANRUSS I lived in Cumberland, R I for 22 years. Now I'm stuck in So Cal. I do get back there once in awhile though. By the way, I think you where the cop that caught me with Sally in the back seat of my dad's 68 Chevy. [*]

"A gerotor style oil pump draws oil from the crankcase through the suction tube and delivers it through the block where it enters the oil cooler cover and pressure regulator valve. When oil pressure exceeds 65 PSI, the valve opens exposing the dump port, which routs excess oil back to the oil sump."(page 9-929) So you shouldn't see more than the 65 PSI even on a cold morning start.

"MONEY" I see it all the time on the stuff I work on. Instead of do it right, say, adding a brace that's 5 MM thick they use one that's 2.5 MM. It's just thick enough to get out of the warranty period before it brakes. Use cheaper parts or no anti-seize, a buck here a buck there, and over 250,000 units produced a lot of money is saved. [*]

You want to vacuum test the purge valve, not the canister. The canister is a place where the vapor is stored. The vapor is later sucked in to the intake manifold when the purge valve gets a signal to open.

The code p0507 idle air control system, idle higher than expected. Causes: Electric throttle control actuator, intake air leak, pcv system. If the code comes back try disconnecting both battery cables and touching them together for 10 seconds.This will reset all the self learned settings. Cycling key on for one sec and off for 10 sec three times. This may reset the idle air volume learned by the pcu. The code p1456 leak detected in fuel EVAP system. Causes: Loose gas cap, poor seal in fuel EVAP purge valve, leak in fuel vapor hose. This code can be a pain, start with the gas cap. If ok vacuum test the purge valve, must hold vacuum on both sides. EVAP line needs to be inspected for cracks or loose fittings from the fuel tank to the canister, from the canister to the purge valve,and from the purge valve to the intake manifold.

Congratulation on the baby, on the new house and having a work shop is a good place to hang out and get things done. Your wife will have the job of her life in December.

No on the E-BAY. Went to a place near my house called Off Road Warehouse. I told them the price I could get it for on the internet and would pay cash so they matched the price.