IBMobile

Put a voltmeter on the battery and see if the the drop in pressure corresponds to a drop in voltage. Try to use a digatil meter and run jumper wires to the cab so you can watch fuel and voltage at the same time.

Pondsy, don't forget to flush the brake system. It needs to be done every 30-40k mi.

I ran mine all most the same route as Diesl4life but not up the trans dipstick tube. I used a tube cutter on the out line where it goes vertical at the right rear of the block. You'll get some fluid drain out but not a lot.

I like it! Now the big question, did you get a bear?

Mine was more like the corner of the overhang into the side of the trailer. punched a hole in the side. The R-V shop wanted $475 to repair it. A little Bondo with fiberglass, glazing putty, and a rattlecan paint job. The total time less than 1.5 hr, cost less than $25.......

Been there, done that....to a roof at a strip mall. These are the things that make it a memberal trip.

Is there any way to put 15's on ?

I was told by the dealer rep to use Charmin and haven't had a problem with it. I do like JAG1's way of finding what will work. Most holding tanks are about 35 gal + or - 5gal so it's about the size of a 33 gal trash can that you're filling, not that big, put in 5 gal and it's over 14% full. I mix up my own concoction; 4-8 oz of each: liquid laundry detergent, bleach, and Calgon or other water softener in a 5gal pail. I put about a gal in each of the kitchen and gray water tanks and the rest in the black water. I mix it weak for the winter and stronger for summer.

My trailer is 8k lb, an 04 built in 03. It came with Maxxes 8008 load range D tires. I put 3k-4k mi a year on them and they still had a lot of thread left, so that's 9 yr and about 36k mi. I replaced them last year due to sun rot with the same make and model. That's right, I didn't keep them covered....:banghead: I've taken it over a lot of dirt roads with no problems and tire pressure is 50 psi.

Installed the fuel boss about 1200 mi ago with an Airtex pump as back up. For the first 100-200 mi the fuel pressure would drop from 19 to 17-13 psi from time to time. The last 1k mi; cold 18psi, wot 20psi. and when it's warmed up 19psi, 21 wot. The drop might have been do to air in the line and the higher pressure when warm due to fuel viscosity.

Fuel filter was changed on 9-18-11 at 69,444 mi. It now has 74,523 mi. The boost PSI is the same as when it runs good and I checked the clamps not to long ago. There is no check engine light on but I just put my Matco Tool code reader on and it showed p0336, crankshaft position sensor range/performance, pending. In March I replaced that sensor due to a complet failure. The engine would start,back out of the driveway, check engine light came on and the engine stops. The code then was for a bad crank sensor. I replaced the sensor, cleared the code and have driven over 1k mi so the monitors would have reset if there were no more problems. I think that either it's a bad sensor from Nappa, or a wire/connector problem. I'll try to get to it this week. I'll clear the pending code, drive it for a while and see what pops up. Thanks for the help. I wouldn't have put the code reader on with no check engine light.

I'm towing about 9k lb and truck slows down to 35-40 mph going up 6% grades. I went up the same hills in October at 55-60 mph with power to spare. Then I didn't drive it until March. I installed a new heater core (which has no bearing on this problem), a new crankshaft sensor, and a Fuel Boss pump with a new Airtex pump as a backup. I also washed my AME air filter. After doing all of this I did a test run towing a car on a flatbed trailer from Ontario, CA to San Diego with no problems, 60 mph all the way. My fuel pressure is 18-19 lbs @ idle and 20-21lbs @ 1800 rpm and above. my boost pressure is 26 psi @ 2800rpm and drops as the rpms go down. Any thoughts?

I'm with Oldbeek on this, pop the cover off and inspect, look for metal flakes and check for play at axles in the spider gears. It's cheap to inspect, some rtv sealent and 85w-140 gear oil. most of the gear oil I've seen comes with the limited slip additive in it now.

Fan clutch has gone bad and need to get a new one. Which fan clutch does a good job at a fair price? I don't want an electric fan. I drive the truck only 4k to 6k miles a year and the pay back in fuel savings, if any, would be seen until after I'm dead. I've check the price on Hayden ( $102 ), NAPPA ( $122 ), and 4-Seasons ( $143 they must be real proud of theirs). So what have you put in and how do you like it?

I was sure the Vett would take it. [*] :banghead:

My 8 ton bottle jack was from Harbor Freight and hecho en China.

I use a 6 ton bottle jack on my 4 ton 5er. I keep the rear stabilizers up. Put the jack under the axle just behind the wheel I want up. I've done 1 axle flat trailers to 3 axle horse trailers that way.

What people call the ignition switch is generally made up of three components. First is the key and tumbler. This is the locking portion. next is the bolt that locks the steering column. Last is the ignition switch which is the electrical portion of the whole assembly. Now as for to much weight on the key ring, pick up your key ring and hold the ignition key between your thumb and for finger and fell how heavy it is. That's how much weight that key is applying to the tumblers and cylinder. Now drive down a bumpy road and that heavy key ring is bouncing up and down pulling the ignition key with it. Premature failure.

All bearings have a "timkin" number on them. The combination of numbers/ letters are used for that bearing only no matter who make it. If you can find that number on the bearing you could get it from a supplier. NOTE: some auto and truck bearings are manufacture specific and can not be found on the open market. I tried to rebuild a Volvo transfer case the other day. I went to my supplier for new bearings and races, no go, they were dealer idem only.

What brand are they?

You might want to spray some Liquid Wrench or P B Blaster on those fittings while waiting for those parts.

So did you replace it or just clean it when you had the core out?

Here's where the transmission fluid temp sensor is located on my truck. If I had known your lines were that bad with rust I would have told you to replace them too. I wasn't thinking about rust because we don't get it real bad in southeren Califronia.

You can have both inlet and outlet pipe hot but have a heat core with 50% blockage. You would have cold spots on the heater core just like a plugged up radiator. I would try to flush it and see what happens. It's the cheapest and easiest thing to start with.

The trans hose is a quick cheap fix. Buy 1 ft of trans cooling hose and 2 small hose clamps from any parts house, about $8, cut the pipe with a small pipe cutter slide the hose clamps on the pipe then slide the hose on to the pipe. Befor putting hose on lube pipe with Vasoline. I've hade this type of a fix last over 5 yr. I put the trans tempsender on the cooling pipe coming of the front pump. It will give you the hottest moving fluid temp. I bought the fittings from a Parker store up the road from me. You have to use a small pipe cutter and take about 1" of pipe put. I'll try to have a picture of it tomorrow.