IBMobile

My wife must have heard your wife because she said the same thing. I had found a nice 1 year old 5th wheel but "NO" she said "I want new, not someone else's dirty old trailer".

Thanks, it's a piece of cake. I tried to retire but my boss said NO! She's using me as a tax write off.

I finally got around to cleaning up the ground wire splices for the PCM this week end. It's not hard and took very little time to do. NOTE: Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. You need: 2 10-12 gauge butt connectors 2 1/4 heat shrink tube 2" long rosin core solder 140 watt solder gun (Weller) or small butane torch roll of electrical tape razer knife wire cutters wire striper Remove air cleaner housing this will open up the whole area to work in. No need to disconnect the batteries, just unplug the gray connector at the ground wires of the right (AUX) battery. The other gray connector has already been disconnected when the ground wires were relocated to the back of the timing cover. Disconnect the 3 plugs at the PCM Cut and strip the 8 gauge wire then cut the connector off the 10 gauge wire and strip it back to fit the butt connector. This is the connection with the cove off. This is splice #S109 that the grounds for the ECM, PCM, VP44, grid heater relay and data link connector. Slide the heat shrink on to the wire were it won't be affected by the heat of soldering. Remove any plastic covering on the butt connector, insert the wires into the connector and solder. Let cool then cove with the heat shrink. At the PCM find the two 14 gauge black with tan stripe wires. They go up into the split wire cover about 10" that's were you'll find splice #S126 There are two 14 gauge black with tan strip wires coming down to the connector. One is the ground for the data link connector and the other is not used. Repeat the cut, strip and solder process as above. When done it should look like this.

Have you verified that the boost pressure on the Quadzilla is indeed 0 psi by installing a test gauge pre and post intercooler. You can install it at the fitting on the turbo for the waste gate hose for pre intercooler and at the 1/2 npt plug in the intake manifold next to the fuel filter for post intercooler pressure. O'Reilly's may have one that you can "rent" for free or you can buy one inexpensively for about $14-$30. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/diagnostics/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-62637.html

Is the exhaust system blocked? If it is that would cause reduced air flow through the exhaust and over the turbo wheel.

Holy jump up and sit down!! What a mess. I'd be looking for a replacement. Take the body off, replace the floor and reinstall body. Heck no, you will never be comfortable about the quality of that trailer again. Tell them to get you a new trailer and back charge that clown in Texas for the fine "you will never have trouble with it again" repair. If they do go for a new trailer then push a little more and get a full warranty period for it.

I had the same set up you have with the boost elbow and 26psi was the best I would see and then bleed of from there to 22psi. I got rid of that boost elbow and put on a manual waste gate controller. Now I'm getting 30psi.

My truck on the left and JAG1's truck on the right at he camp grounds in the Sierra Nevada mountains last week. A friends Chevy truck in the background.

It shouldn't mater. They are both return lines to the reservoir part of the pump.

I've been starting the engine with the grid heaters disconnected for 6 weeks with morning temps ranging from 28°-55°F with just a little white smoke and a loping idle for about 30 seconds. This afternoon, after my wife drove it this morning, the check engine light was on. I scanned the system with an OBD code reader and fond this, P1291 No temp rise from intake heaters. Monitor & Set Conditions Temperature rise from intake air heaters is monitored for first 15 seconds of engine operation. DTC may be stored if initial Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor reading is 0-66°F (-17.8 to 18.8°C), Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS) and IAT sensor are within 10°F of each other, time between end of preheat and engine run state is less than 30 seconds, engine is cranked for less than 5 seconds before engine starts, preheat is completed before engine starts, post-heat is active and no IAT sensor or intake air heater relay DTCs exist. This shows that a code, under the right temp conditions, can still be set with the ECM still closing the rely but the main power to the grids disconnected from the battery.

All the parts you need are not that much more like @dripley said and it's cheaper and more time efficient to do it right the first time.

You can double up the gauges to check a bigger gap, .026+.014= .040" I've pulled clutches and removed shims to adjust the gap on other compressors but I've never done one on these trucks. Yes, You would need the gap measurement, a special tool to remove the clutch disk, check the thickness of the shims to be removed with a micrometer, put it all back together, recheck the gap and and it should work or just buy a new one. The last a/c compressor I replaced was on a Chevy Suburban that I bought from O'rilly's. I don't remember what I paid for it but it still working on the customer's vehicle. I didn't buy their cheapest compressor option. When you do the job be sure to change the expansion tube, accumulator and all the O-rings.

What has happened is the air gap between the clutch plate and the pulley has increased due to wear. The air gap is large enough now were the electromagnet can no longer keep the clutch engaged to the pulley. You can check this air gap with a set of feeler gauges. The gap between the clutch plate and the pulley should be .016"-.031". If it is greater than this then the clutch is wore out and with the miles you have on the compressor it would be best to replace the whole unit and service the complete a/c system.

My wife and I had a great time visiting Mike and Mopar Mom. Wish we could spend more time with them in this beautiful area. We're heading to the Sierra Nevada mountains south of Carson City for a few days of fishing.

I'll be there tomorrow. We can try it then. Will need a floor jack and some 2x4, 4x4 or other blocks of wood.

Changing the paint color of a vehicle drops it's value, is seldom done right, usually looks bad after a few years, rock chips and scratches will show the under lying red paint unless you sand it down to metal and build it back up.

That's when you drink coffee, then you go back to work and drink more beer.

I left mine empty but like @dripley you can use that empty terminal to power something else now. That terminal is rated for 140 amps so a high amp draw idem can be powered from there.

I might be able to stick around for Saturday. Root beer for the kid.

2 cycle oil in fuel 1:128 Magnifine in line power steering/hydro boost fluid filter ECM protection with fuel pump relay (for backup lift pump) Fuel Boss pump Edge EZ Mystery switch with brake pedal disengagement Electrical system ground modification BHAF with heat shield 4" exhaust RV275 injectors manual boost controller fuel pressure, boost, transmission and exhaust temperature gauges Everything you do to your truck that is not a stock (factory type) replacement or repair is a modification and will void the factory warranty.

It's a Saturday, two man, one 12 pack job.

This may help

That's what I'm running and I'm seeing 30psi by the time the trans does the 3-4 upshift. Please fill out your signature so we can see what equipment your truck has. It will help in evaluating any problems your truck may experience.