RJC2

Let us know what happened. I am wondering about this one myself.

That is it. I did take it out before putting the tank back on. The Air Dog, Big Line Kit, and Draw Straw are installed and everything is working. Fuel pressure us about 15 idle and 12.5 wide open throttle. I screwed up some vacuum lines and disabled my cruise control and air ducts for a while, got that fixed. I am glad that job is over. My wife is tired of me smelling like diesel fuel. She just told me to ask if there is a good way to get the smell out of clothing. (she has washed them twice and they still smell) Mike you need to start a section for the wives. I can hear it now, "That man is always working on that #@% truck!" Thanks for the help guys

Yes it was just floating around in there. I've never heard of a ball being used that way. Well, I guess I can reach in there tomorrow and give it a toss.I had also thought about opening up the filler neck where it ends in the tank. I tried to run a siphon hose in through the the filler hose (while the tank was off) to empty it and the hose stopped at the end. I wonder if it would hurt anything if I cut that out of there while I still have the tank down?

What's the green ball for? --- Update to the previous post... Okay I have some answers. This morning Eric from Vulcan Performance called and told me that the hole in the fuel module cup is supposed to be 1/2". Problem solved. Now, I had a question about a green ball I found floating in my fuel tank when I opened it up. I thought there were balls in all Dodge trucks but Dripley told me he didn't have one in his tank. Has anyone else noticed a 1-3/16" green ball, in their tank?

Thanks, Eric didn't say anything about taking out the valve in the bottom of the module. He just said that is how fuel got in. Looks awfully small to be letting in that much fuel. Dripley is it me or are these instructions lacking. I am sitting here trying to absorb this and I don't know if I'm getting a headache from the small type, the jumping from page to page trying to follow the instructions, or the residual diesel smell on my hands after washing them several times.... --- Update to the previous post... Dripley, also did you have to cut your filler tube for the return, or did the fuel come back via the old return line? The instructions say not to remove the old return line, but supplied me with the filler tube hook up, and the directions say to install it. I'm confused. --- Update to the previous post... Oh, and one last thing. Did your tank have a green ball, about 1-3/16" in diameter floating in it? Whats that for?

Ahh, It looks like I am going to loose some time tomorrow. I guess I can work on mounting the Air Dog while waiting for Vulcan to open.Man, those instructions are hard to see. (small)I had to get my mad scientist goggles out to really see those pictures well.It's hell getting old. My body is broken down, can't half see. At least I can hear okay, lest it's my wife.

It draws from the basket or what I called the cup. The straw comes straight down into the basket. I called Eric at Vulcan today after reading some posts about people having 1/4 tank issues. He told me they have no issues like that if the install is done right, and right means drilling this hole in the side of the basket. 2-3" up. He told me the size of the hole, and I didn't make a note of it as I was expecting UPS at any moment and thought the directions would tell me. Wrong to assume anything....The directions say to drill a 5/16" hole in the top of the supply tube, but nothing about the hole in question.Where was your second hole at?

I am preparing to install an Air Dog 100 in my truck in the morning and have to install the Draw Straw 5 in the tank as my truck had the in-tank pump installed. I spoke with Eric at Vulcan earlier today about this install, he told me to be sure to drill a hole in the side of the plastic cup at the bottom of the module, about 2"-3" up from the bottom. For the life of me I can't remember what size hole to drill. I have read the directions from Vulcan that came with the Draw Straw 5 and it doesn't mention this hole at all. In the instructions, one of the pictures shows a hole in this approximate location with an arrow pointing to it, but no explaination at all of what to do or what size.Eric told me this hole is necessary to keep from having the 1/4 tank issue.I have the tank out and am ready to install the Draw Straw and was hoping to start this project tomorrow morning early. Vulcan doesn't open until 12 noon eastern time so any help here would be greatly appreciated.Many Thanks,Bob

As the tire wears the compound gets harder and harder so you get the most miles out of the worst part of the tire. That is why a new set of tires feels so nice for the first thousand miles. Conversely, we get better fuel mileage with the used up tire than the new. I agree that the warranties are a scam. They make the warranty contract hard to abide by. If your front end is misaligned and wear isn't perfect, or your rotation schedule isn't perfect, they will void it. I personally don't like to run a tire past 5-6/32", the safety of my family means more to me than money.

There is a trade off with traction and longevity. The softer compound of the snow tire makes it grip like non other but they wear out fast, thus the reason non of the tire companies will put a mileage warranty on a snow tire. The harder compounds that give better wear aren't so good on wet or slippery surfaces.AH64ID, it sounds like you could make a tire company eat that mileage warranty. These trucks, [and all diesels regardless of brand] are really hard on back tires. Too light, too much torque.

Yes, there has been only a couple of instances where I have been able to bring myself to spend that kind of money for spray can undercoating. I did buy a special gun for spraying undercoating from the body shop supply store about 10 years ago. The undercoating comes in a gallon jug and is more affordable. I came out of that job looking blacker than the President. I have never used it again. I spent hours getting that stuff off of me. The spray cans are by far the easiest and cleanest way. The professional grade undercoating still wasn't as good as 3M. As you stated, it seems that everything that company makes is high quality. The 3M spray seems to cover as much per can as two of the others, so I really don't know if it is that big of a difference in cost in the end.Another thing. NEVER spray undercoating on a windy day. I bought a new truck once and did just that. The paint felt like sand paper, and I had to do a buff job on a truck that I owned for 3 days.I have had a couple of major screw ups with this stuff now that I think of it...Good luck with your project.Bob

I think I would invent some steel tracks for your truck! A skid steer does better than that.

The rubberized kind from 3M is the best, but the price is high. It stays nice for a longer time and doesn't peel and get all over your hands of you bump it after a couple of years like the cheapo kind. I get just as good a result from just keeping the frame painted well. If a spot blisters out, I use a rust converter that changes the rust to a black primer, then touch up with more paint and it all looks like new. If you paint, just be sure to use Low Gloss Black, not flat. The semi and gloss black doesn't look OEM.Advance Auto parts sells a real nice Low Gloss Black. It matches the frame sheen perfectly.MoparMan is right. Keep the frame washed everytime you wash the truck. Dirt holds moisture, = RUST.

$250 per tire is alot of money, but they all are getting up there. I had just put a new set of Michelins on my last truck. Nice tires. The truck I have now has Firestone Transforce tires. My friend who owns a tire shop says that they [transforce] are performing the best of anything he has seen lately. I live in farm country and we all tow. It's hard to get miles out of tires that haul weight but the Transforce.He also likes Mastercraft, which is a Cooper Tire Company. I had a set of them and they did well and were inexpensive.FYI, I know alot of guys like the BFGs, but he says he tries not to sell them as they have issues with balancing and being out of round which causes shaking.

Thanks for the advice.

AH64ID, as stated earlier, I am going to install a new AD 100 this coming week. (it arrives Monday) In your opinion should I leave the filters that it comes with in it, or, are they of such poor quality that I would be well advised to pull them and install the Donaldson and Balwin?Second, Does the AD100 use the same filters as you recommended above to Dripley for his AD II 165? I believe they were the Baldwin BF1275 and Donaldson P551315.

And I thank you as well for your service to our Country. Secondly, for continuing your service to others here in these forums. In my short time on here your advice has been valuable and reliable. Thanks.My son served in Iraq as well. Came home alive, Thank God.

I'll do that. Thanks

I don't know... This is getting confusing. Maybe it is because I am a newbee, however, I have spent untold hours reading all I can to understand and what I am finding is... This breaks... put that on..., put that on... then I need something else..., then thats crap... I take good care of my trucks, never abuse them. I want something to last me ten years or more and not have to work on it all the time.

Pepsi- As I am preparing to install an Air Dog 100 next week, what would you recommend that isn't "crap"? Now is the time to hear this for me...Bob

I ran into a friend today who has an 06 2500 CTD. He has done some mods to it [a box and trans upgrades] and takes really good care of it. I have a 2002, and discussed the lift pump issue I am currently having with it. He wasn't sure if there were any lift pump issues with his model truck. Do these later model trucks have this issue as well?

I tried to contact DAP, sent and email 2 days ago, tried to call, no answer, so I ordered and Air Dog 100 with the big line kit and Draw straw V from Vulcan. Eric at Vulcan was very knowledgable and answered all my questions. Now, comes the dirty work...Bob

You are right, it isn't necessary to pull the whole dash out, and it would have made my job replacing the dash a bit easier as unplugging the electrical connectors was a real test of my constitution. I took the dash all the way out because a Dodge tech told me it would be alot easier to make sure all of the defrost ducts ect. would be in place properly. It was nice for that, I just set it on the tailgate and changed everything over. Also I was able to get in there and clean the thing up really well. The entire interior was already out for cleaning, so pulling the dash just completed the job nicely.

I must be looking right past it, but where is the Vendors list located?

Yes, the sooner the better. I am going to order one on Monday. I just need to educate myself enough to know which to buy and which one would be easiest to install. I am probably going to stay near stock, as far as modifications. I was told the current pump is in the tank. (haven't looked to verify this) I won't drive it for now.