RJC2

A good station owner will pay for the repairs if they are at fault. I would talk to them.

Well all this talk about disc or drum brakes begs the question, when exactly did they put discs on the rear. My 2002 has discs, his 2001 has drums so obviously they started in 2002, but when Mike asked which brakes it had I thought maybe they started the discs with the late 2001 models.Anyone know?

(yelling from the corner)I thought that since he learned that it was an injector problem he may have gotten curious and took a harder look at them and found something suspicious looking.

So did any of the the injectors show signs of being bad?

It is scary not having a parking brake with a manual transmission. Last truck was that way for about a week. I fixed it before something bad happened. The emergency brake is probably a totally different issue from the front brakes. It may need to be adjusted, or the cables replaced in order to adjust it properly.I would try a hard stop in an empty parking lot on dry fairly level pavement. If the rear brakes are locking up then, the rear end will try to come around on you and turn you 180 degrees. If that happens your front brakes are needing attention. They provide most of the braking power for the truck (about 75% if memory serves me) so you really need to fix that before you rear end someone, or loose control in a turn, if this is the case.I tend to agree with dripley on the dirt road test. Pickups are light on the rear ends anyway, that big 6 banger under the hood makes the weight offset a whole lot worse on a dirt road than the average truck. Mike travels his share of dirt roads I wonder if he notices this issue?You can come out of the corner now Mike.

Your Enlish is very good. You will notice that some of us are a bit sloppy with our typing skills, and some (me included) don't proof read their posts enough. I imagine it can be rather confusing to you at times with misspelled words and such. I think you will find this site to be a bit more of the common sense syle regarding diesels (from what I have seen) There are some who really get into the aftermarket "Go Fast" items and generally end up with the "broke fast" problems [both truck and money] From what I see Mike Nelson has a very logical outlook for the Dodge/Cummins truck. He seems to try to fix what is wrong, improve what can go wrong and maintain the rest to make it last a million miles and do so economically. That is what has drawn me here over the other websites. There isn't so much of the talk about black marks on the road and black smoke, not that I object to that, if it makes a guy happy have at it. I want to learn, and personally this place has done that best for me.Maybe someday you will get one of these great trucks and show the Polish people what great engineers we here in the U.S. can be. Good luck and God Bless,Bob in West Virginia

I for one have benefited greatly from this website. It's a great public service to help people to help themselves, and that is what this website does very well. Money is tight for everyone these days. I have saved alot of money due to the know how I have acquired here. Thanks Mike.

The auction companies (in this area anyway) that auction off used farm equipment do the same UMO and diesel mixed. It makes the dull paint look a little nicer. Just don't sit down on it... Yes I did.

yes, I saw that, I just never hear of it.

I have left my bezel off and gauge unmounted for a few days for just that reason. The bezel has epoxy drying on it (again) every time I take it off I get another crack and another tab breaks off. Real quality stuff, that interior plastic they use on these trucks. Maybe after they have been in business a for a few years they will get that kind of thing ironed out.

I'd like to know what the heatsink and fan are. Never heard of it.:shrug:I need to spend some more time in the search section I guess.

Welcome from West Virginia. I hope the common sense advice you get here will help educate you, as it has me. My family on my mothers side are from Warsaw, Poland. I commend you on your mastery of the English language. I speak only a few words of Polish and realize the difficulty in the transition between the two. I hope to hear from you in the future.PozenganieBob

For what it is worth (we are really getting derailed here, sorry JAG1) Chick-fil-a is really doing a business in my area. We have two of them in our small town and they are packed. They even have CFA day in my daughters school and they feed the children. They are big contributors to the Christian schools in our area. That is job security Chickenman, that Dodge had better have some life left in it. We had better start a Chick fil a thread. I feel a repremand coming from Mopar man.

John, don't know if they all have them or not. I have had a few of the F-word trucks and if Dodge does like they do, the base model trucks don't have heat and all the other do. The bad thing about the Ford was that the heat in the mirrors stayed on all the time, couldn't shut it off. It would bake the salt on the glass when travelling in inclement weather. The power button on the dash is nice in the Dodge, it can be used when needed.

Dave, I have the needle valve closed a good bit. I watched Mikes video on how to adjust it and noticed that his gauge needle took about 3-4 seconds to get to full pressure when it was adjusted right, so that is how I have tried to adjust mine. It is at the point where it still shows differences in the pressure readings, but is just a hair from being completely shut.Finding that air brake line was a bugger. I finally did find it, right where Mike said it would be, at Napa. I had checked with every Napa in my area, and some farther away stores without any luck. Then I called one store that I had called before (closest to me) and the guy said "oh yeah, we have it, it's somewhere in the back" I kept refering to it being Polyon and his line was a different brand so I guess it threw him off. The guy had a good bit of it actually. It is the 1/8" size. Even the Kenworth dealership didn't have this size. FYI, I bought 10 feet of it and only had about 2 feet left over. I did leave it a little long and just curled it up in the dash behind the gauge so I could reach the gauge out of the passenger side door if I had to bleed or cut it. Wifey gets ill smelling diesel so I didn't want to chance spilling any in the cab. It worked out well. I just wish I had checked the gauge first. I wouldn't of had to take the diesel bath fooling around checking everything else before going to the gauge. My clothes are still soaking in the sink in the basement to cut the diesel smell before washing them. If you can't find any air brake line down there let me know and I will ship you some. Bob

Okay, I found the problem. It was the Isolator. The diaphram had turned inside out. For the life of me I can't figure out how this happened. No leaks in the lines, everything bled well. And it happened pretty fast too. In about 25 minutes of driving it went from 16.5 psi to 2psi. I followed the installation instruction to a tee.Now what was my lesson learned here? Listen to Moparman. He warned me about the isolator and what the chances were of it going bad or just screwing up. It lasted about 5 or 6 weeks. It cost me about an extra $90 for the isolator, then the Vulcan line to run to it (I can't remember how much that was) around $20. Then figure in the cost of a set of fuel filters ($50) and the truck being down. Yeah, I learned a little lesson. Now I have it hard lined into the gauge with air brake line as "someone" suggested in the beginning. Instead of 16.5 psi it now reads 17.5 psi. The wall thickness is much better on the air brake line and it is a whole lot tougher than the clear line that comes with the Isspro gauge. The clear line is so easy to kink, the air brake line would be hard to kink.So when the salesman says "I wouldn't be even THINK about installing a fuel pressure gauge without an isolator" it's a sales pitch that the gauge manufacturers must give them to sell a whole lot of islolators. As for my isolator,,, It is now a real expensive paper weight on my workbench. A reminder.Go ahead Mike, I deserve it...

Dripley, are we going to see you change your user name to Chickenman. Chick-fil-a should sponsor this site with all this advertisement youve been giving them.

I had a set of tires crack like that about ten years ago. I went to replace them thinking they were unsafe but the tire shop assured me that there was nothing to worry about. I drove them like that for about 2 more years and never had a problem. They were Coopers and did wear well.

I am not sure if he has tried it or not but will ask, and tell him to check the wires and connectors. Thanks for the advice.

What kind of hand cleaner do you use. I need some. "Ol' blue" has been making me black...

I too thought it might be the switch, but told him I would check this site, as if it were a common problem someone might help. Thanks

A friend has a 99 2500 CTD with 129K miles. He is having problems starting it. Sometimes it will start first try, other times he tuns the key and nothing happens and will have to cycle the key 2 to 20 times before it will turn over and start. Has anyone else experienced this?

When I bought my truck a couple of months ago I asked how much it would cost for (4) ball joints, and alignment of course. He quoted $900. Thank God it didn't need them.Now you know what to do when you retire from building chicken houses! You will need to build a sound proof garage as the neighbors probably wouldn't like all the cussing. My friend said they make him cuss too.

My friend owns an 06 2500 CTD. He owns a front end shop and state inspection station and knows how to install them. He said his Moog replacements were border line on passing inspection the day he installed them. He called Moog and they said it is normal to have some movement. Didn't sound right to him or me. That said, you fellows that get 100k plus out of your joints are doing well. The front end guy tells me that it isn't uncommon to replace them on the diesel trucks of all brands every 40k or so. At about $900 a job, business is okay for him.

What I did was to take off the infeed line from the fuel tank to the Air Dog. I had some Air Dog fuel line left over from the install and I had bought an extra fitting that fit the intake port on the pump, so I put the fitting on the exra pipe which made a new intake line about 3' long. I didn't have to unhook anything from the fuel tank. I put the 3' line into a fuel can with 1.5 gallons of fuel and bumped the starter. I got 2 psi. Then replaced all the filters and still 2 psi. So the way I see it, it has to be one of three things; (1) the Air Dog pump, (2) bad gauge, or (3) an obstruction in the line from the Air Dog to the factory canister filter. I have a Vulcan 3/8" rubber line coming off the needle valve at the bottom of the factory canister filter. It hooks up to the islolator, and that hooks to the plastic line to the gauge in the truck. I will unhook the vulcan rubber line at the isolator (leaving the isolator out) and hook up the test gauge there to test the pressure at the factory cansister. I bought a fuel pressure test gauge early this morning and got home with big hopes to see what the results would be, but I was called upon by a friend in need which took all day, so I will have to wait until Monday to see what the pressure reads. The truck does still start and run, but I am not going to drive it until this is resolved.The return coming back to the tank comes into the bucket in the tank. (my truck had the OE intank pump)Thanks for taking your time to help me, it is appreciated.